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Discussion Starter #1
I have a friend that wants me to put a springover kit on his '92 jeep wrangler. I started to do a search but I don't have time to wade through all the info to find out about how much a kit costs how long it will take to put one on and where to get it? Also what is a good friend rate to charge him?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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well, if he uses stock, or whatever he already has, springs, all you need is spring perches and a welder.
steering, brake lines, drive line angles/lengths, maybe longer shocks are the bare bones required to fix all the problems caused by a spring over. A "kit" could be peiced together for pretty cheap.

I'd say between $150 and $400 for labor for the WHOLE thing done, depending on how good of a friend this guy is and how much he wants to help.
 

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Stock wrangler springs are to soft. You will need some sort of AAL or addition to the springs.
 

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He's aware he needs a SYE if he has the NP231 correct?

Also, a lot of those "kits" come with stuff you don't neccesarily need. Take the brake line extensions... all you need to do is move your stock ones below the frame. You can buy perches at trailer stores or online, and you can buy u bolts at O'Smielly's or VatoZone.

As far as labor, I think it depends on what goes wrong. You may encountar a bunch of rusted crap that needs cutting. Also if the perches aren't exactly the right size, you'll be griding the poo out of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
TexasBlakeWFO said:
He's aware he needs a SYE if he has the NP231 correct?

Also, a lot of those "kits" come with stuff you don't neccesarily need. Take the brake line extensions... all you need to do is move your stock ones below the frame. You can buy perches at trailer stores or online, and you can buy u bolts at O'Smielly's or VatoZone.

As far as labor, I think it depends on what goes wrong. You may encountar a bunch of rusted crap that needs cutting. Also if the perches aren't exactly the right size, you'll be griding the poo out of them.
What is a SYE and what is the best way to tell if it is a Np231?
 

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bad booger said:


What is a SYE and what is the best way to tell if it is a Np231?
SYE is a slip yoke eliminator , lots of places make em. Most YJs came with np231s. Been flipping my axles this week. Definitely get a SYE and CV driveshaft. new perches front and rear, I bought shock mounts cause they were cheap. Only problem Ive run into so far is the steering on passenger side, the drag link hits the spring. But we are working on that now
 

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I did A SOA on my CJ in about 3 full days by myself, and that included swapping in flat top knuckles for the high steer. Ended up costing over $1000 in parts but a big part of that was the high steer arms and drive shaft.
On the other hand it took my friend and me about 4 full days to SOA his YJ. Quite a bit of time removing the TC, installing the SYE, making a drag link to clear the spring, etc. Everything seemed to be a bitch with that thing. Not to mention all the F’in metric bolts! With U-bolts, spring plates, perches, springs (RE SOA), SYE (AA), CV drive shaft, shocks, shock mounts, shackles, and Beer he spent over $1,500.

Also,you will defiantly need the SYE for a SOA YJ
 

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does your buddy have a I6 or the "ALLMIGHTY 4 BANGER", all you really need to buy for the spring over are the perches, shocks, new DS's and a dropped pitman arm, make sure you relocate the lower front shock mounts! (the additional flex drove my callipers strait into a brand new set of RS9012's :mad: ) i have a four-banger which has a shorter drivetrain and i am SOA with out an SYE,(just get the f&r DS's lengthened), yes i wish i had and SYE for strenth but the old slip yoke hasn't given me any probs yet and no driveline vibes if set up correctly, follow the advice already given on relocating the brakelines(those piece of shit RE stainless steel lines broke on the first fricking ride, keep the stock ones), as for steering i replaced my YJ linkage with stock TJ linkage and it handles like a dream(minus the steering stabalizer), i would also advise against stock YJ springs but they will work if necessary

perches - $20 a pair
4shocks - $130 and on, depending
drop pitman -about $65
DS's - $200(over estimate on lengthening)
labor -$depends on how good of a buddy he is
 

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You need a lot more than that to SOA a YJ. All YJ's came stock with a NP231, which will require a SYE kit, or a different transfercase. You will need new driveshafts. You will need new shocks, the old ones are not long enough. You will need a dropped pitman arm. You can flip the brake lines to the bottom of the rails in the front, but you will need a longer brake line in the rear. You should replace your ubolts. It is a lot easier to get new spring perches than try to grind off old ones. The biggest difficulty with a YJ is the steering. The drag link contacts the passenger side spring with a SOA, and hi steer knuckle kits are $$$$. So you either make a z shaped drag link. That results in bump steer and questionable strength, or you run one of the hi steer kits that cost more than everything else in your SOA cost, or you remove the inner C's and weld on 44 C's and run 44 outer knuckles, not easy and really expensive too. After all that you have spent around $2k -$3k not $400 as some people would leave you to believe, and you have axles that will not stand up to the 35 " tires you did the kit for in the first place.

Ben

88YJ SOA +2" 4.3L chevy.
 

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How in the world did you put TJ steering on a YJ. The drag link and tie rod, would run right through the passenger spring. I call bs unless you can post picts.
 

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jeepboyben said:
How in the world did you put TJ steering on a YJ. The drag link and tie rod, would run right through the passenger spring. I call bs unless you can post picts.
you can call bs all you want, do you think that i make up stuff like this for fun, i dont have access to a dig cam this very moment, but i would be more than happy to prove your ass wrong, the ball joints on my stock linkage were shot and my buddy had the linkage off of his former D30 so we just propped it up to see if we could make it work and presto, no more agravating slack in the steering and everything clears the springs just fine at full droop and compression
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I gotta tell ya it seems you guys are trying to confuse me. No wonder I don't understand the JEEP thing. Glad I have whats left of a Yota.

So do I need a:

- SYE (what does this cost by the way)
- new springs
- cv driveshaft? for just the rear?


This jeep will not see much off road use. This guy just thinks it would be cool not to drive around with his ass dragging the ground. So I would say serious strength issues are not going to be a factor however drive line vibrations could play more of a role than most of you might worry about. With this in mind I would think that the cv is going to be a requirement but having never owned a jeep I couldn't be sure.

Thanks for the help guys I appreciate your suggestions and info.
 

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bad booger said:
I gotta tell ya it seems you guys are trying to confuse me. No wonder I don't understand the JEEP thing. Glad I have whats left of a Yota.

So do I need a:

- SYE (what does this cost by the way)
- new springs
- cv driveshaft? for just the rear?


This jeep will not see much off road use. This guy just thinks it would be cool not to drive around with his ass dragging the ground. So I would say serious strength issues are not going to be a factor however drive line vibrations could play more of a role than most of you might worry about. With this in mind I would think that the cv is going to be a requirement but having never owned a jeep I couldn't be sure.

Thanks for the help guys I appreciate your suggestions and info.
It does not sound like your friend needs a SOA, but just a simple bolt on lift kit.
SOAs are great for the serious wheeler, but they are more maintainance intensive, and require many other upgrades to make them viable. Springs will constantly sag, needing replacement on a regular basis. Also along those lines, you will need some sort of a traction bar to reduce spring wrap. A dropped pitman arm will get you by for a while, but in the long run, a high steer kit is usually the only way to get rid of bumpsteer. I have also not heard any body mention links to extend out your panhard rods and sway bar.
A bolt on, spring under axle lift kit will still need the SYE with CV rear driveshaft, longer shocks, brake line relocation, & longer sway bar links.
 

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I still say bs on the TJ linkage, find someone to post picts.

SYE kits run between $99 for the Rubicon Express hack and tap kits. ( I do not personally recommend) to ~$300 for a kit that replaces the mainshaft with one out of a 241. You would want a CV rear driveshaft then, and have your front lengthened. A new CV rear can run around $270 depending on who makes it, what parts are used, and how beefy it is. Lengthening a driveshaft is relatively cheap, usually under $100. I would recommend a simple 4" lift kit for your friend and drop the transfercase skid a bit for now. If he really wants to go SOA, tell him to find new axles first. Late model grand wagoneer axles work well, or late 70's ford if you want full width.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the continued info guys I think I am going to talk him into a lift kit rather than the SOA he is pretty much a dumb ass and just thought that would be cheapest.
 

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bad booger said:

This jeep will not see much off road use. This guy just thinks it would be cool not to drive around with his ass dragging the ground........
I wouldn't waste the time doing a SOA then, just go with a leaf spring kit and be done with it like just like Robert said. Road driving capabilities will most likely be slightly better than a SOA too.
 

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bad booger said:


What is a SYE and what is the best way to tell if it is a Np231?
and your doing the SOA?!

what r u going to do for draglink?
SOA IS NOT the cheapest. Do a 3.5 inch black diamond lift from http://www.specialtyparts.com uumm $529 for a TJ lift, I forget YJ $. He can run 33's fine w/ this. if he wants to run 35's he needs to re gear too.

1. no tcase drop
2. no sye or CV driveshaft
3. no custom draglink
4. no nasty bump steer or Death wobble and other dangerous handling behaviors.
4. its all there, your done in 1 day.
if he wants .5 more lift use a shackle not a body lift.
do not go more than 4 or u will need, SYE and new driveshafts.
 

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OOPS! that wasnt Keith that was me! he was logged in on my laptop :flipoff2:
 

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kidwired said:
OOPS! that wasnt Keith that was me! he was logged in on my laptop :flipoff2:
Ya, sure............................
Just paddin' yer post count:flipoff2:
 
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