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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone have any info about going spring over with a series. I know the front cross member would be a problem but I was thinking a high pinion, do you think that would be enough or would I have to trim x-member still?

Braden
 

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I'm just about ready to do the same thing on a 109. With the 109's there is also a cross member behind the transfer case that has to be modified. I've already cut mine out once in order to get full droop on the rear suspension without fouling the cross member.

There may some issues with the front drive shaft angles, I'm still not sure how I'm going to handle that. I've heard something about folks re drilling the swivel balls so you can rotate the diff up and still retain the correct caster setting.

My preference would be to find a pair of one ton or forward control axles. But that's going to run into some $$$$.
 

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lrover73 said:
Anyone have any info about going spring over with a series. I know the front cross member would be a problem but I was thinking a high pinion, do you think that would be enough or would I have to trim x-member still?

Braden
Been there, done that twice.

The front springs are pretty short for a good spring over, you would probably want to extend the horns and run YJ springs at least. The driveshaft can work on a rover diff if you cut out a chunk of the crossmember. It's a bitch. What axle do you want to run with a high pinion? That's only like 2-3" and won't get you the clearance you need.

Is this a pipe dream or are you for real?
 

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HandBuilt said:
The front springs are pretty short for a good spring over, you would probably want to extend the horns and run YJ springs at least.
J-L,
do you think 4 rear parabolics will work or do they have too much arch?
Do you need a flat spring for a SOA?
Pete
still waiting on photos of your steering set up :flipoff2:
 

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aloharover said:
J-L,
do you think 4 rear parabolics will work or do they have too much arch?
Do you need a flat spring for a SOA?
Pete
still waiting on photos of your steering set up :flipoff2:
Way too much arch unless you de-arch them which is a bitch for paras. I run almost flat rover springs (88 rear on front, 109 rear on rear, both de-arched) , about 1" rise is perfect in my case but it makes for a bit of a belly dragger. You have to make sure shit is tucked up into the frame.

But I would go for longer leaves, that will help you out a lot and put you in coiler eating territory. But what do I know - I'm a puss ass web wheeler.

I scrapped the whole front axle a year ago (no more coiler junk evah!) when I started the new truck. The high steer arm I have for a coiler knuckle is sitting around unused. It's 1" cold rolled, milled and welded, and then hot dip galvied. Kirk Hillman wanted it, but I dunno if he still does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was thinking high pinion in a yota, but if that’s not going to give enough clearance for me to not have to cut the x-member, maybe ill use something else, any suggestions? Right now im running 34's with parabolics on stock axles and its just not a winning combo. I need some more belly clearance and fender clearance that does not involve cutting. If you have any suggestions would be cool.

Thanks,
Braden
 

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a Toy mini truck front axle will bolt in to a Series, so long as you are converting to SOA at the same time. The perch width is correct.

If this is the route you want to take I can help you out with it, I also have a Toy IFS rear axle already set up with Series width spring perches, albeit SUA.
 

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HandBuilt said:
The high steer arm I have for a coiler knuckle is sitting around unused. It's 1" cold rolled, milled and welded, and then hot dip galvied. Kirk Hillman wanted it, but I dunno if he still does.
Well if he flakes let me know. I can shoot ya some $$ and my address
Pete
 

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HandBuilt said:
Way too much arch unless you de-arch them which is a bitch for paras. I run almost flat rover springs
OK so why flat springs for SOA? Is it because of spring wrap or height? :confused:
 

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aloharover said:
OK so why flat springs for SOA? Is it because of spring wrap or height? :confused:
It's a height thing amongst other issues. Think about it - Do you really want your rig 6-7" higher than it is? The driveline angles would be crap, the truck would be scary to drive. It would roll anywhere.

Flat springs flex better. Less interleaf friction, less shackle movement, they just work nicer than SUA. Tons more clearance under the axles. I can go on, it's just a way nicer setup. Long flat springs are awesome for flex. I have been experimenting in my garage with ghetto hi-lift and piled up tire flex stuff and it's wicked.

My new truck is going to be SPOA and low/wide. Fat low belly dragger with lots of tork. It's already got that stance. SPOA doesn't necessarily mean super tall, it's just that you have to build it properly so it sits down low. MY last truck was all slinky and tall and stuff, height is overrated.

PM me you address and I'll send the arm out, you can shoot me a few bucks if ya think it's worth anything.
 

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hey JL we're still waiting for pics of your mastery, until then it exists in the same realm as my rig... the sewer pipe of dreams :flipoff2:
 

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HandBuilt said:
It's a height thing amongst other issues. Think about it - Do you really want your rig 6-7" higher than it is?
Nope :)

There are ways around that issue but it involves more work then its probably worth.
All I wanna do is stick the front axle under my truck. The 6" wider stance and disc brakes are my goal.
 

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Just cut the offending cross member out. Its a rock anchor. You can re-fab a stronger new one and relocate it elswhere. Cooper has done this on all his SOA conversions and it works. Handbuilt has it right with the 88" rear springs up front, gives lots more flex and a cushy Caddy ride to boot. only downside is adds approx. 6" to front frame horns.
BTW, if you keep the stock front springs up front on an SOA you'll likely crack 'em at the perch area. Check them often.
 

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Modifried said:
Just cut the offending cross member out. Its a rock anchor. You can re-fab a stronger new one and relocate it elswhere. Cooper has done this on all his SOA conversions and it works. Handbuilt has it right with the 88" rear springs up front, gives lots more flex and a cushy Caddy ride to boot. only downside is adds approx. 6" to front frame horns.
BTW, if you keep the stock front springs up front on an SOA you'll likely crack 'em at the perch area. Check them often.
I wish I could move that damn crossmember! Honestly, I can't. The oil pan from the cummins is about 1/2" forward of it, and the tranny pan is about 1" behind it. Rear from that is a big ass skidplate/tranny support/transfercase support and forward of that is the oilpan... then the front axle. I have to leave the POS right where it is unless I want to drop it down lower, a lot lower :rolleyes:

So I said fawk it, I cut a section out of it where the driveshaft is and I'll bootiefabulize some sort of thicker 1/4" bridge to reinforce that spot. That's the only way, dammit.

I used to have a SPOA on shortie springs up front, it didn't flex very well and I never broke a spring but it didn't stay that way very long. I suspect my 10 spline rangie POS axles were the fuse at that point :flipoff2:
 

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64rovr said:
hey JL we're still waiting for pics of your mastery, until then it exists in the same realm as my rig... the sewer pipe of dreams :flipoff2:
Sewer pipe - you like that, huh?

No pics. The truck is a figment of my imagination. No one - not even the local club guys - have seen my new rig yet.
 

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aloharover said:
Nope :)

There are ways around that issue but it involves more work then its probably worth.
All I wanna do is stick the front axle under my truck. The 6" wider stance and disc brakes are my goal.
Stay sprung under then - it's a lot of work, your truck seems to work OK as is. The brakes are a nice upgrade.
 

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HandBuilt said:
Stay sprung under then - it's a lot of work, your truck seems to work OK as is. The brakes are a nice upgrade.
Has anyone used a coil axle in a spring under situation?
How did you do the front, cut away on the dif housing or built up a perch?
 

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aloharover said:
Has anyone used a coil axle in a spring under situation?
How did you do the front, cut away on the dif housing or built up a perch?

I have seen it done before - you build a perch the same as a series front axle has. The hard part is the track rod. It wants to be where the springs are. If you have a LHD axle you need to get a swivel housing from a British or Australian LR, with the drag link mount on the other swivel. So then you can fit a toyota style combined drag link/track rod on the front of the axle instead of the rear.
 

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ISUZUROVER said:
I have seen it done before - you build a perch the same as a series front axle has. The hard part is the track rod. It wants to be where the springs are. If you have a LHD axle you need to get a swivel housing from a British or Australian LR, with the drag link mount on the other swivel. So then you can fit a toyota style combined drag link/track rod on the front of the axle instead of the rear.
Thanks,
I do have a lhd and rhd swivel housings, got lucky when I got the salisbury, guy had both.
I am working on the steering issues.
Was mostly worried about the perches. With the sals pumpkin, the perches under the axle look like they will loose some of my lift.
 

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aloharover said:
Thanks,
I do have a lhd and rhd swivel housings, got lucky when I got the salisbury, guy had both.
I am working on the steering issues.
Was mostly worried about the perches. With the sals pumpkin, the perches under the axle look like they will loose some of my lift.
So was it originally a coiler front Sals??? Surely the pumpkin is in the same place as the leaf sprung front sals (or did LR do what they did with the rear sals and keep one axle shaft the same length)? You will have to check on the clearance between the track rod (when front mounted) and the pumpkin - if that is too much of a problem then a springover will be the only way.
 
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