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Discussion Starter #1
I did a spring over conversion on my CJ7, and I don'thave much of a turning radis. I us a 4in. drop pit man arm, and at the same time converted it to power steering. Is this normal or do I have to ajust something?
 

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I would make sure your steering gear box is centered. Then check your toe. After all of that is cool, make sure your drag link isnt hitting the leaf springs. Center your steering wheel (adjust drag link) and it should be fine.
 

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I just put full width axles in my YJ. I used a 4" drop arm from a YJ. I lost alot of turning radius because the arm was to short. I know you didnt swap axles but did you do any high steer or anything? Maybe a longer pitman arm would get you radius back?
 

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I have not been able to figure out what to do to get the steering linkage over the leaf spring. I have the stock Dana 30 in the front. I found a kit for the newer Dana, but not for mine. As far as the pit man arm I though 4in. was the biggest for a CJ7. Thanks.
 

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I dont mean drop, I mean from the center of the sector shaft to the hole where the tie rod end goes into the arm. I am now using a J truck/wagoneer arm. I use that because I have the larger TR ends with my rockstomper setup. Measure the distance on the stock arm to the new arm and make sure they are the same or the new one is at least longer. If its shorter it wont be able to pull or push the steering all the way for a full turn. Sorry so confusing. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by jamesCJ7:
<STRONG>I have not been able to figure out what to do to get the steering linkage over the leaf spring. I have the stock Dana 30 in the front. I found a kit for the newer Dana, but not for mine. As far as the pit man arm I though 4in. was the biggest for a CJ7. Thanks.</STRONG>
I thought you can use chevy (or similar) flat top outer knuckles and steering arms for the high-steer conversion. I also saw a home-brew bracket that bolts on the top of the knuckle and into the draglink hole (ala MORE kit) but I have no pictures of it unfortunately. Obviously a shorter steering arm on the knuckle would help. It's all in how much travel the new steering box has compared to the old one. Also, the steeper the draglink angle the more you loose in travel.
 

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If your box is not centered, you would be able to turn tighter in one direction than the other, so it does'nt sound like that's your problem. Make sure the steering stops are'nt limiting. Maybe you need a longer arm as previosly suggested.
You can use the knuckles off a D44. You need some w/ flat tops like Chevy & some 70's Waggoneers. They may need to be drilled & tapped for the arms to bolt on. You can buy them ready to go from Parts Mike or several other sources you should find by useing the search function @ the top of the screen.
 
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