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Discussion Starter #1
So here is a question. Since in 86 they switched to IFS and this has a solid axle I was looking over the frame up front where they would have cut all the IFS off and where they would have welded everything on for the SAS. I am kind of confused because the frame is clean and looks completely factory where all the IFS stuff would have been. Also has the tube through the frame where the shackles are for the front leaf springs looks stock. Is it possible with having a build take of December 1985 but a title date of 86 that it came factory with a solid axle up front?

One more concern I am having is the shackle length. The rears are 7-1/2" center to center and the front is 6-1/4" center to center. I noticed the rear sits a little higher then the front but I can change that easy enough. My question is, are these shackles to long? This is mostly going to be a toy and will see very little street time.

I am also trying to figure out what springs I have under it. Appears to be stock length so I am not really sure. It appears that the front hanger has been spaced down by 2"x3" tube to give it a little more lift. The front is spring over with hi-stear. If possible I would like to get rid of the shackles and blocks for all spring lift. I am planning on only running 35's so I don't really need a whole lot. Although I have toyed around with the idea of putting my 38.5's on it. What are your thoughts?

Can anyone give me any answers to what I am looking at here?



















 

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I would probably buy a spring lift kit, and ditch those stock ones with the hack shackles. Maybe buy a new front crossmember as well, and cut that stuff that is going on, on the front of your frame.
 

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X2, Looks like someone hacked the truck together. Get rid of the blocks in the back and move shocks out as far as possable so they work. As far as the front, you can make your own or buy a front hanger kit with new shackles. Use Chevy 54-63" springs in rear and make a spring pack out of all the spring you have now for the front.
 

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Check your frame for VIN number and compare to your title on the 86. Located on driver's side between front shock mount and cab along the frame. Possible they did a body swap onto straight axle frame that had been hacked up to begin with.
 

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Is it possible with having a build take of December 1985 but a title date of 86 that it came factory with a solid axle up front? Possible, but more likely the cab and the frame are not vin matching

One more concern I am having is the shackle length. The rears are 7-1/2" center to center and the front is 6-1/4" center to center. I noticed the rear sits a little higher then the front but I can change that easy enough. My question is, are these shackles to long? This really depends on you. I would cross brace them together if you kept them that long. I personally would make/buy shorter thicker shackles. The PO was doing whatever he could to lift the truck for larger tires.

I am also trying to figure out what springs I have under it. Appears to be stock length so I am not really sure. Search the Toy FAQ at the top of the page. It will have a list of spring lengths along with year-type of truck that they came out of


What are your thoughts?
Fix the rear shock mounts. Lower it and start cutting for tire fitment. New longer springs may be in order. Remove the overload leaf in the rear pack. Check frame for rust rot, plate if needed.

This really depends on how far you want to go with this build (shackle reversal, steering box relocate, tubbing the firewall, cage, hydro assist, gears, lockers, doubler, ext...). Lots of things that you could do but is it worth it for what you are going to use the truck for (trail trouncer, mud dobber, rock crawler, mall princess)?

No matter what be prepared for a lot of work.
 

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Someone probably swapped the title or the frame. That is an 84-85 frame. You can see the bump stop pads above the axle on the frame. However, all the comments above are needed. That was really built on a budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will definitely be moving the shocks out once I know where I am as far as lift and cycle my axles. I'm guessing they mounted them there because they based the travel off the current shocks they had and mounted them where it matched up. The blocks and shackles will be gone as well. I will be cutting that cross member off and fabricating or buying a new one

What will the 63" shocks give me for lift? Any specific size shackle needed to clear 35's with the 63's without to much cutting?

Is there a spring I can buy for the front to help me match the rear or is making a bastard pack using my old rear springs a good way to go? Also what am I looking at for shackles in the front?

The frame is good and solid. I went around the whole thing scrapping and banging with a hammer. No need for any repair at this point.

Just looking to build a decently capable trail rig. Nothing major though for now. Maybe some climbing, mud and typical off road shenanigans. For now it will remain fairly stock other then lift, tires and the current 4.88 gears. Once I start wheeling a cage will be in the works.

Frame says RN60~5023125
Cab says JT4RN62D6G0022557
 

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I will be cutting that cross member off and fabricating or buying a new one

Do some research before you replace the cross member. They need to be braced to the frame on both sides. Cross over steering puts a lot of strain on it. this would also be a good time to relocate the steering box forward. This is needed to keep the tie rod and drag link from binding when different longer springs are used in the front. If the steering box is moved up as well then the shackles can be shortened and front hanger lifted. This will help with keeping the front end low. If you run a reverse shackle (like a jeep) you wont have to spend the extra money on a longer slip front driveline.

What will the 63" shocks give me for lift? Any specific size shackle needed to clear 35's with the 63's without to much cutting?

Not sure on the hight but he is talking about springs, not shocks.

Is there a spring I can buy for the front to help me match the rear or is making a bastard pack using my old rear springs a good way to go? Also what am I looking at for shackles in the front?

Hard to say over the internet. You will need at least 3+ lift to clear the cross over steering. If you change the front springs to something besides OEM then they will be longer (pin to eye measurements, see FAQ as I stated before). This will move the front axle forward and cause the cross over steering to bind as stated before.



Just looking to build a decently capable trail rig. Nothing major though for now. Maybe some climbing, mud and typical off road shenanigans. For now it will remain fairly stock other then lift, tires and the current 4.88 gears.
Lots of choices and work. Thats the reason this thing was hacked together in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I have a lot to undo thats for sure. Plan is probably to run 35's and get it as low as I can and trim what I have to.
 

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rockslayeroffroad.com

since you have to start from ground zero. I would ditch the leaf springs and 4 link the toyota front and rear. there is a complete front and rear 4 link kit on the market now at rockslayeroffroad.com. You will do it right the first time and save money in the long run.It comes complete for easy installation . Leaf srings are design to carry weight and they are limited for performance, plus you get axle wrap and wheel hop which can make parts fail.
 
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