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Discussion Starter #1
Doe anyone have a east wat to do square drive shafts on a Zuk. I've searched and come up with a ton for other rigs but only a few for Zuks. Lokking for advice and pictures if possible. Thanks.
 

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take a piece of square tubing about 2 in. find another piece that fits nicley inside of that.
take your driveline now.
cut the ends off (at about the weld)
weld one end on to the 2 in tube
weld the other end to the smaller diameter tube.
take the measurment from the t case to the pinion and make sure your drivelin is that length plus about 5 in.

and bada bing bada boo you have a square drivline!!
 

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take a piece of square tubing about 2 in. find another piece that fits nicley inside of that.
take your driveline now.
cut the ends off (at about the weld)
weld one end on to the 2 in tube
weld the other end to the smaller diameter tube.
take the measurment from the t case to the pinion and make sure your drivelin is that length plus about 5 in.

and bada bing bada boo you have a square drivline!!
X2, there isn't much to them, thats why you're going with a cheap square shaft and not a nice round one...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I make it five inches longer than the measurement? How is that going to work it will be to long to compress? :confused:I was hoping someone had a good idea on how to get the flange welded straight to the square shaft.
 

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ok fine then make it 3 inches longer so it will compress.

well your eyball should be good enough. its a square driveline its never going to be balanced. so what if its off a few CM..
 

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I don't understand why everyone likes square driveshafts, it's not that hard to make a custom one out of standard stuff. anyone need a sammy flange or spline to a chevy cv?
jd
 

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Also forget doing ledges...
Get the driveshaft sitting on a ledge and it will walk you sideways...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't really like Square drive shafts but I can build one pretty cheap. I have a ton of droop on the rear axle because of the suspension set up I have. So I'm going to need alot of extension to keep from pulling the slip apart.
 

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You really shouldn't need a long travel rear shaft and you will not like a square tube rear shaft. Square shafts clank and bang and are sloppy. They are marginal for the front because the front doesn't get used all the time, they would suck for the rear.

I have a front square tube and can not wait for the day I set it on fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm running buggy leaf set up. The best I can measure in the shop by jacking it up and letting the suspension drop, it looks like I need at least 8" of extension. So I'm pretty sure it will be even more once it's finished. It's a pile of crap but it's mine. I still have alot of work to do to finish it but I'm almost ready to build the d-shafts. Here are a few pictures I have done quite a bit of work since these pictures.




Yah I know it's ugly, but it matches me.
 

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how you measured the driveshaft yet? I bit it doesn't move as much as you think.
With my 1/4elliptical setup, I bet I don't have 2" of slip needed.
 

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we just did some last night for a couple of toyotas. Same concept. we used 2" square .25" wall for the inner and 2.5"x.25" wall for the outter.

Made a mark on the inner where the seam from the outter one would hit and just ripped a groove all the way down the length of the inner tube. Had to surface the inner tube a bit as well to get it to slide smoothly in and out.

Square up the edges of the flanges on the u-joint yokes and weld it up.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=646304&page=3&highlight=
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I measured it again and from full stuff to full flex it's about 5 inches difference. I don't think the stock slip yoke is going to work. How much travel should I account for up travel?
 
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