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Discussion Starter #1
I am workign on my TJ frame, and chopped off the back end to narrow and lengthen it. Working on the compound angles for up and over the axle, and then in to narrow it and am wondering how you guys are doing compound angles on a chop saw? Is there a metal cutting chop saw that does this, or do you just use a wood one with a carbide blade on it?
Or, is there a program similar to the one that you can use on round tube to do paper cutouts, only using square tube?
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
j
 

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Lay out the cut you need and make the cut with a cutoff wheel in a four and a half inch grinder.
 

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Using a compound miter saw meant for wood on metal isn't exactly a good idea - for starters, wood saws are about 4000 rpm while metal saws are about 1300 rpm and the wood saws don't have the protection against metal filings getting into the motors.

I haven't seen compound chop saws until you get up into the "pro" versions like this Rockwell:
 

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Using a compound mitre saw meant for wood on metal isn't exactly a good idea - for starters, wood saws are about 4000 rpm while metal saws are about 1300 rpm and the wood saws don't have the protection against metal filings getting into the motors.
Funny, the 14" Hitachi chop saw I have has a 3800rpm no load speed and the Delta 10" mitre saw has a 5000rpm no load speed. 14" abrasive wheels generally come with a 4400 to 5400 max. rpm rating and 10" abrasive wheels with a 5/8" arbor and 6100 max. rpm ratings are widely available so there is no "issue" around the rpm ratings of the equipment and the blades not matching.

While I would not plan on using a mitre saw meant primarily for wood in metal service I have used mine for a limited amount of compound cuts on metal. Make sure that you protect the parts of the mitre saw that will not withstand the sparks and blow it out throughly with compressed air afterwords.

If you have a big $$$ mitre saw I would buy a $99 tool store special for use on metal.
 

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or do you just use a wood one with a carbide blade on it?

j
Funny, the 14" Hitachi chop saw I have has a 3800rpm no load speed and the Delta 10" mitre saw has a 5000rpm no load speed. 14" abrasive wheels generally come with a 4400 to 5400 max. rpm rating and 10" abrasive wheels with a 5/8" arbor and 6100 max. rpm ratings are widely available so there is no "issue" around the rpm ratings of the equipment and the blades not matching.

.
I believe he's asking about the multi or cold
cut blade. Not an abrasive.
 

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I believe he's asking about the multi or cold
cut blade. Not an abrasive.
Missed that :homer: a abrasive wheel in a mitre saw is a under $10 proposition though compared to a drycut blade being a over (wayyy over) $10 solution if it is even possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think the bottom line is, I am fine with having to cut them out with an angle grinder, but how do I measure and draw out the cut I need? I SUCK at compound angles... any insight to help me in a crash course?
 

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Figure out the angle you need, dived by 2 and cut the mating peices to the angle you come up with. So for a 45* kick up and a 15* kick in you'd want each piece cut at 22.5* for the kick up, then take the line you've draw for that and move the inside in so that the cut line moves 5* for the kick in. Then cut it a little rough so you can make sure the final fit-up is tight using an angle grinder. I usually make the cut with an angle grinder or a porta-band.
 

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I think the bottom line is, I am fine with having to cut them out with an angle grinder, but how do I measure and draw out the cut I need? I SUCK at compound angles... any insight to help me in a crash course?
Cut one angle first. Put the tube where you want it butted up against the other tube and measure the gap you have.(For the other angle)
Mark the measurement of the gap on the side you butted. Then connect the corners.


:mr-t:
 
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