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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting another Comp/Fun Buggy

My buddy has a JD2 model 3 hydraulic bender, and I bought the 1.5"-5.5 180 die. I'm kinda working on design right now, and after this weekends CALROCS, I will begin bending the tubing.

Specs: I have 4 -14" SAW's and Atlas (Thanks to Advance Adapters). Mustang 5.0L with Al heads, C4, and High pinion 60's with ARB's.

My first question is,
How close to a bend (lets say a 45 dgree) can you get, before starting a second bend in the opposite direction?
Here's a pic of the rear links. Please excuse the sesame street CAD work. If someone could plug my numbers into a real cad program, that would be cool!

Any suggestions would be apprciated.
 

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I ended up with about a 5.5 shift in the tube- die was a friends so I can't measure it-was about a 5" radius though- you might be able to see this in the main frame rail pics of my car. Good luck, measure twice (or more) cut once. Nice light V8 you have there. Should be a little easier with the straight axles- the portals really added some challenge on the front.
 

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KingOf_Pain said:
Please excuse the sesame street CAD work. If someone could plug my numbers into a real cad program, that would be cool!

Any suggestions would be apprciated.
Dude, did your 2 year old son draw that or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"Nice light V8 you have there."

With the Al heads, it shouldn't be much heavier then a 4.3L. Sure is alot bigger though, and the Ford oil pump is a PITA.

I would like to get rear portals eventually! I have all your pics saved, so I'll take another look. Thanks for the input.
 

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KingOf_Pain said:
"Nice light V8 you have there."

With the Al heads, it shouldn't be much heavier then a 4.3L. Sure is alot bigger though, and the Ford oil pump is a PITA.

I would like to get rear portals eventually! I have all your pics saved, so I'll take another look. Thanks for the input.
surely there is some sort of pump relocation kit out there...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ford oil pump

I talked to a guy at Fluid Dynamics, and he said that this is a common FORD problem, with all types of racers. Problem is, you can't turn the pump reliably with a serp. belt, so you need a cogged pulley added to the front of the crank pulley. I'm gonna try and maintain the mechanical fan, since this will be a part time trail rig. The pump runs $480, and then there's the cost of adding the gogged pulley to the front of my crank/damper combo. I decided it wasn't worth it, at this point.
 

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Re: Ford oil pump

I'm having a hard time understanding the problem with the oil pump?

The oil filter, sure -- that's in the way (though the water-to-oil cooler is pretty slick). The oil pressure sender, that's in the way too, but the oil pump? What am I missing?

I have the front of my engine shortened WAY down -- I ditched the engine-driven water pump and fan, and I'm running an electric water pump, piped straight into the timing cover, with the accessories moved back tighter to the engine. It is still in the garage, so I don't know how well it would cool, but the math looks right, and it sure shortened up the engine!

Randii
 

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Re: Re: Ford oil pump

randii said:
I'm having a hard time understanding the problem with the oil pump?

The oil filter, sure -- that's in the way (though the water-to-oil cooler is pretty slick). The oil pressure sender, that's in the way too, but the oil pump? What am I missing?

I have the front of my engine shortened WAY down -- I ditched the engine-driven water pump and fan, and I'm running an electric water pump, piped straight into the timing cover, with the accessories moved back tighter to the engine. It is still in the garage, so I don't know how well it would cool, but the math looks right, and it sure shortened up the engine!

Randii
the problem is the oil pump is in the front of the motor, so you have to have a 6" deep front sump, even in a rear sump pan... the only solutions are dry sump, or external pump wet sump...
 

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Re: Re: Re: Ford oil pump

the problem is the oil pump is in the front of the motor, so you have to have a 6" deep front sump, even in a rear sump pan...
Ahh.... I get it. I've been thinking about length so much that I have forgotten entirely about height. That really didn't matter much for my application.

Dry sump is awfully expensive... outside-pump wet sump might not be that bad, actually, but I sure would instrument the hell out of oil pressure, with a few dozen warning lights and an Accusump, just to be safe!

Randii
 

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Discussion Starter #15
John, Thanks for clearing up the pump issue's.

TnToy, Thanks! I didn't even see the "LINE TOOL". :emb2:

indyTJ, It looks like I have ALOT of antisquat, but it's hard to tell from my crude drawing. Can you help me here? Thanks!

randii, I'm gonna hold off on the extrenal pump, wet sump at this time. It would run about $1000, and I would only gain about an inch.
 

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I know a fabricator who builds a lot of import cages, using a hossfeild bender. He can't make those bends close enough together to follow the path he wants so he just makes it out of two pieces of tube and uses an internal sleeve to join them together, this way the the bends can be right on top of each other.

That sure does look like a lot of anti squat get some graph paper and lay it out to scale.
 

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i'd be happy to help your front driveline out before it falls out- :D - no really it looks pretty good so far- keep up the good work! Jess
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gordon: Hey Buddy,
Graph paper sounds like a great idea for this computer challenged individual. I don't believe I have as much antisquat, as it shows in the pic. Thanks for the sleeve tip also.

Thanks Jess, I knew you were a good guy even though you infected my computer twice in one night! You probably don't remember. Send the new HighAngle drive shaft to 612 N. Douty St........better yet, I can pick it up this weekend at the CALROCs event! lol

RFB's, I should have thought of that come back! I love it.

For the rest of you;
Just wait till some tubing gets added to those Sesame pics!
 
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