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Discussion Starter #1
I don't have a problem (yet) with pealing beads, but definitely a problem with air "burping" at single digit pressures. Local guy has a deal on (4) stuans in good-new shape for about 1/2 or less new price. Very tempting (even though I have better things to spend my money on). Other option is weld-ons of whatever flavor which would be similar price, but more work.


Opinions? I like the idea of the Stuan for the double beadlock and I can move them from wheel to wheels should I change rims style, but my only experience with them is web-wheeling.

Weld-ons are stupid simple and bullet-proof and proven, but does nothing for the inside bead and is a one-time shot.



So given cost being a (basic) wash, which way would you go? Rig weights 4500lbs (heavier than I thought, it will be going on a diet), used for general wheeling and tuff-truck style racing/bashing. 35 x 13.5 x 15" Krawlers (blue) currently on 15x8 steelies. Like I said, good bead retention, but still burp air too frequently for my taste.
 

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"All Weeee Drive!"
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I've been running Stauns on my H2 w/37" Krawlers for 2 seasons.
First season I had no problems what so ever, however I only went down to 9-10lbs.

After snow wheeling this past spring at 2 lbs, I decided to wheel at 4-5 lbs (bad idea).

I popped 2 tubes this season & tore one Staun slightly.
The first time was user error... I was doing about 25-30mph on the Tahoe trailhead side of the Rubicon (near Miller Lake)... It's about 4-5 miles of fire road with random rocks. I hit a nice 8-10" spiked rock on the front right which made a 4-5" sidewall gash, & made a nice dent in a rim. The tube was repairable & I had a neighbor who does boat tops patch the Staun.

Overall, I like them...
You just have to be really careful with installation (make sure not to let the tube get pinched or the Staun doesn't seat correctly).
Check the tube pressure before each run (if they get below 25 lbs you will lose beads).

My biggest issue has been that after 2 season, the Aluminum H2 rims look like my steelies did after 5-6 seasons. (So I wish I had steel rims).

Staun went out of business, so that is a factor as well.
Inner-Air Lock on here is selling the same thing (which I think is improved) which is cheaper than Stauns sold for (I think it's like $80 per).
 

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Just bought weld on's :D

Should have em done in a couple weeks



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Staun went out of business, so that is a factor as well.
Inner-Air Lock on here is selling the same thing (which I think is improved) which is cheaper than Stauns sold for (I think it's like $80 per).
hmm, good point, I hadn't noticed that yet (just finished reading a couple bigger GEN threads). Them being out of buisness makes it very questionable. Looked up innerlocks and they are about $135/tire (pre web site, not shopping around). The guy was selling the Stauns for $100 ea, so for that $35 differance I'd go with something "new" and still around. Good call.

If I could get the Stuans for $50 ea, then it might be worth the hassel.... hmm.....
 

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Granite Guru
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I would do the weld-ons.

Stauns/Inner Air locks aren't recommended if you air down below 5 psi.

Inner Air Locks aren't recommended if you air up/down a lot (no air-channel feature)

I have heard from several people who's stauns started breaking down and tearing/coming apart after 2-3 years.

Staun is back in business as Coyote. Replacement tubes are $63 after shipping. http://www.partsshed.com/index.htm
 

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I have Staun's if I had to do it again I wouldn't have them shoved up my ass if I had the room.

Unless you like pulling wheel to air them up and pulling tires to patch/replace tubes stay away from them.
 

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The whole point of a bead lock is to run low pressure. But, to answer your question yes you could put a tube in your tire and blow it up to 50psi and keep the bead from breaking.

Next you are going to say "use a smaller tube" Nope, the tube will expand at the point of least resistance which will not be towards the sidewall.

I think roofing tar is a better option than Stauns if you wanted to be cheap.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #13
Mark...just weld up some steelies.

I have wheeled with you and rode with you. You are NOT a Staun/Air Lock thing-a-ma-flux-capacitor kind of guy.

You need steeeeeeel.
I don't know if thats an insult or a compliment :D


I did find out I lost a axle shaft u-joint cap. Heard something go SMACK on the way down. Found it yesterday while I was staring at the undercarriage and thought something looked funny. Yokes look find so I think it was "on its way out" and snow wheeling just finished it off.
 

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I got a set of weld on beadlocks custom made from a guy up north of me and only charged me $235 but no hardware so probably be into them 275 when all said and done
 

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I ran stauns all the way through UA2010. I bought them used. read the directions and do exactly as they say and I don't think you would have problems on a mild rig. if you are using it as an all around rig I think they are the only way to go. I got them used because the guy I bought them from said he always popped the bead off on them. he was only running the Staun tube at 20 PSI you have to run them way higher then that. I keep them right at 35. now if this was a comp rig or racing in KOH I would not recomend them. I am sure you know why.
I had weld ons and the first time I pulled onto the freeway with the stauns I never ever wanted to go back! smooth as could be and not even balanced.
 

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really? I mean I could see these working in drag racing because it is keeping the tire from spining on the rim but I would think you would rip them right out of the bead. has anyone used these?
plus if you mount and dismount 2 or 3 times even to fix a valve it seems you would shread the bead from screwing and unscrewing them but what do I know? :shaking:
 

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Addicted to Gear Oil
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^^^The other problem with bead screws/inchworm, is now you have a bunch of holes in your rim, if you strip or break a sheetmetal screw...you're screwed!

If you are running steel rims, it's hard to beat weld on beadlocks for the $. Throw a cup of Airsoft BBs in each one and they will balance as you drive.

Unless you want to run 16.5's and get a set of H1s.


IMHO, stauns are a pan in the ass to mount, and failure prone.

Crazy redneck inner air beadlock "mutt-lock" http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=342253&highlight=mutt+lock
 

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Inchworm, the screws go behind the bead not into the bead. I have run Stauns for 4+ years now, 1 tube (my fault) no other problems, 5psi on 39'5s in the rocks. I like the fact that they are double beadlock and when you come up against an rock it doesn't crimp the tire against the beadlock. The wife and I installed them in the garage in about 30 minutes each not including removal from the rig, it's just not that difficult. Mark
 
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