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Discussion Starter #1
a quick search yielded nothing. Anyway should I be locktitiing these things? I am replacing them all and would appreciate any procedures.
 

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Some people are tack welding them on the inside of the knuckle to keep them from backing out and breaking. I plan on doing this when I rebuild my axle next.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
zags said:
Some people are tack welding them on the inside of the knuckle to keep them from backing out and breaking. I plan on doing this when I rebuild my axle next.
Holly. Ok, does anyone have any torque specs? I know I'm being an anal fawk but I want to do this right
 

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OOP'S said:
Using torque specs is not being anal, not using them is being an asshole. 71 ft.lbs.--FSM:D
I use 120ft lbs:eek: Marlin says 100 I hear, but I hit 120lb all is good.
 

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SeaBass44 said:


I use 120ft lbs:eek: Marlin says 100 I hear, but I hit 120lb all is good.
May have something to do with aftermarket arms. The FSM says 71 I think I went down to 80 and have never had a prob with them coming loose!!!:D
 

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OOP'S said:
May have something to do with aftermarket arms. The FSM says 71 I think I went down to 80 and have never had a prob with them coming loose!!!:D
mine lossen up each trip by 10-20ft lbs, I have read about the few problems and think it's just that people do not check them and keep them torqued enough, so I do and so far.............so good. nice job on the ram mount by the way;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
We are talking about the studs here and not the nutst hold the arm onto the studs right? I have specs on the nuts torque but not the stud to knuckle.

thanks guys
 

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SeaBass44 said:


mine lossen up each trip by 10-20ft lbs, I have read about the few problems and think it's just that people do not check them and keep them torqued enough, so I do and so far.............so good. nice job on the ram mount by the way;)
Thanks, It's those little dinky 35" tires that I run!!!!:D
 

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OOP'S said:
Thanks, It's those little dinky 35" tires that I run!!!!:D
Must be, I re-tighten mine every day of wheeling :D .
 

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4-runnin said:
We are talking about the studs here and not the nutst hold the arm onto the studs right? I have specs on the nuts torque but not the stud to knuckle.

thanks guys
Sorry we are talking nuts here., not sure about the studs???
 

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OOP'S said:
Thanks, It's those little dinky 35" tires that I run!!!!:D
I'm referring to when I had dinky 35"s:eek: Haven't but snooooo wheeled the 38's as of yet.
 

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RE:Todd said:
Must be, I re-tighten mine every day of wheeling :D .
No you dont! You go back to camp and drink :beer:
:flipoff2:

Mine have loosened once or twice, the nuts not the studs. I ve never seen the studs come loose.
 

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Just check them and you will be fine. :rolleyes: Tack welding a stud in a knuckle is one of the more ridiculous solutions I've heard in a while. A stud does NOT have to be tight, just fully seated. The nut has to be tight. You shear off a welded stud because you are too lazy to check your steering arms and you've got a whole new problem to deal with. I put all my knuckle studs in finger-tight and have NEVER had a knuckle problem, but I check the torque frequently. It's all about preventive maintenance.

It ain't rocket science people, it's just a fastener with a difficult job to do.........:D
 

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Bad Karma said:
Just check them and you will be fine. :rolleyes: Tack welding a stud in a knuckle is one of the more ridiculous solutions I've heard in a while............
I agree...........Bobby Long recomends this as a step to the install of his superbirfields........................? .....weird.go look at his website at the install instructions:eek: .......I will not be welding mine:rolleyes:
 

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DogDenII said:
Wouldn't a bolt work the same way in place of the studs?
i think that useing a bolt would pose a problem with the cone washers.

i check mine when i do my "after wheeling inspection" along with u-bolts, motor mounts, bla, bla, bla........

don't know if it's right but i've been torquing mine at 85. driver's side has needed some more after wheeling.
 
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