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Discussion Starter #1
well i took apart my wrangler box today to get it ready to be taped for hydro assist. well if you have taken apart a gear box before there are a lot of parts! if i have never messed with one of these, what are the odds i am going to get it back together right? is there an on-line manual on what how to get it back together properly?

i am looking at buying the kit scott at rockstomper sells and would like to get it on soon. i have a good idea where to tap the box (not the caps) from pictures on bc4x4.com. i guess if i fawk it up bad enough i could send it to west texas off road
:flipoff2:

also is it an exact science when taping the box, or just get real close to where the pics show it?
 

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You're screwed......

I just rebuilt one, it took a couple of attempts before I was able to keep all the balls in position. I'd recommend screwing the 'twisty' screw into the back side of the piston, push it into the housing (you'll need to tap it in, which will knock all the balls out). Once the piston is in, unscrew and screw it back into the input side with the thrust washer.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i got all my balls in the right spot. :flipoff2: i am more worried about that screw on top of the sector shaft (as in how many turns?) and such online manuals anyone...if not i thing matt might be getting himself a new customer :D
 

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Chrisjeep7 said:
i got all my balls in the right spot. :flipoff2: i am more worried about that screw on top of the sector shaft (as in how many turns?) and such online manuals anyone...if not i thing matt might be getting himself a new customer :D
Don't touch it. You don't need to, no matter where you tap the box--just leave the sector shaft in it.

Edit: Oh... wait... you already did, didn't you? Shouldn'a done that. :(
Anyway, all it is, is backlash adjustment--it's not a "how many turns" thing, it's like setting ring gear backlash. It should be just barely snug, but I don't have a real torque spec or the like, it's just tight enough to where there's not excessive drag on the piston, but not so loose that there's excess play.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
fawk i already took it out...i look to cool not to plat with...now what?


i guess the real question is am i way over my head here?


edit: good thing it is not a how many turns thing, i was not counting :flipoff2: another queston, what about that round thing wiht 2 holes in it you have to take off to get the guts out. is that a how many turns thing? czu i did count that! so when i put it back together i just move the piston to the middle and slide the sector shaft in?
 

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Chrisjeep7 said:
fawk i already took it out...i look to cool not to plat with...now what?
'k... see above.

How clean is the little screw bit in the center? I'd (personally) pray that the screw isn't perfectly clean, and you can get pretty close off where the rust/crud stops. Lacking that, set it really loose, then adjust tighter and tighter till the backlash is minimal. Normally, when I tap a box, I don't even touch that nut or bolt--resist the temptation. Maybe I'm better at resisting 'cause I've taken so much stuff apart, it starts getting boring.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
see above edit.

also yes the screw is nice and painted!


as far as taping the box (not alum caps) is it rocket science? or just get close to the pics i have seen on bc4x4.com?

you should be getting a call from me on monday if it works, i will be ordering your 1.5" ram hydro kit.
 

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Chrisjeep7 said:
also yes the screw is nice and painted!
Cool, that'll get ya close then. Prolly close enough to call it good. If it's got excess play when you're done, then it's too loose and needs adjusting.

Mostly, just turn the input till the piston centers up, drop the sector shaft in, and go from there. Be careful not to spin the piston when the sector shaft splines go by, or you'll have to pull it back apart again, and don't end up with the splines in the wrong spot either, or it won't work at all. Most of the "putting it together wrong" things that can go wrong, will prevent you from actually reassembling the box... as long as you're not using a sledgehammer and an impact wrench to put it back together.

as far as taping the box (not alum caps) is it rocket science? or just get close to the pics i have seen on bc4x4.com?
I prefer tapping the caps--elsewhere on the box is a PITA.

As for the two-hole spanner-wrench-tightening nut thingee, that's not a how many turns thing, AFAIK. It's a "thread into the box casting till it's all the way in, then use the jam nut on the outside to hold it in place" thing. But it won't hurt to just copy the turns and then reef the giant jam nut back into place.
 

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The teath on the sector shaft have a slight taper so when you run the adjuster on top in it makes the gear mesh tighter. From my experience it's pretty easy to tell how tight you have the gears by just spinning the box by hand. There's a fine line between noticible gear lash and a slight binding in the center of the travel. I set mine really close to zero lash and it worked pretty good

As far as how critical the spot you tap is, I'm a little curious about that myself if anyone knows for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks a million guys. this is my first box to take apart. when i heard all them bb's hit the bottom of the parts washer i was like i am fawked! but after about 1 hour of playing with my balls i got them it :flipoff2:

why do you prefer to tap the caps? i hear lots of people blow those out? whats the skinny?
 
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