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Discussion Starter #1
i bent up a z link for myself the other day with a 4 inch droop and also replaced teh steering bearings as they were kaput (3/4 steering wheel turn of play)

now the truck only turns half of what it used to...
what could i have done wrong?

z links shouldnt reduce turn to my mind.

i tightened up the 'top bearing housing' as much as i could whilst the steering box turn was centralised, would over tightening it reduce the overal turn?

thats the only conclusion i can come to.

but i tightned it alot as it seemed to reduce the steering play, which is still there, like half a turn at the wheel.
 

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probably gear lube, since they're referred to as gear boxes by some people.
I had tried the z-link idea a while back, but there's flaws in it.
first, center the steering box, then put your steering wheel on the way it should be, then put the pitman arm on so it's pointing straight back toward the rear(so it can travel 2 turns in either direction. now center your steering wheels as best you can and adjust the drag link to fit between the pitman arm and tie rod without moving the pitman arm from it's centered position. you should be good to go. I've never adjusted the box in any way myself.
if you have so much play in the steering, do you have extra long shackles in front? any way for your axle to move a little from side to side? that movement could be your slack.
the problem with a z-link is this: as you turn towards the left(driver's side) the pitman arm goes directly left, however since you're pulling upwards at an angle on the tie rod now, instead of directly left, it'll be harder to turn, and not go as far.
and what's worse is when you articulate off road and the drivers front tire goes way down, you'll never turn left, cuz then you'll be pulling almost directly upwards on the tie rod and not sideways.
the drag link and tie rod are supposed to be parallel. even if it means making further mods to the steering system. I had to put a foot tall plate on my tie rod to make up for the 11" of lift I had, and put the ball joint up on top to connect the drag link to. it worked, I had full steering, plus turning while articulated was easier.
the main thing is to pull that tie rod directly left and right, and not upwards on it.

after all, if a shock absorber is mounted at a 45 degree angle, it'll have to work so much harder to dampen the spring cuz you gave it less leverage to do it's job. same thing applies to the drag link.
 

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look at it this way: if you're steering stabilizer has 10" of movement left to right, and then you decide to mount it at a 45 degree angle to the tie rod instead of inline with it, then the stabilizer will limit your steering left and right. you're doing the same thing with an angled drag link. the angle is determined by the mounting points for the drag link, way up high on the pitman arm, and way down low on the drag link is a terrible combo.
those 2 points gotta be as close to parallel as you can get them.
all the z-links in the world aren't gonna make those 2 points parallel with the tie rod
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i think i get what youre saying, but for one thing. i had a normal stright steering arm and it turned teh wheels fine. this was at a total angle to the drag link.
i changed to z link not cause of bump steer etc but because the tie rod ends were not allowing full flex.

i shall try put on the old steer arm and see if it turns
- if it doesnt steer box is bust
- if it does turn ill machine some billet to fit into the tie rod locator on teh hub and 4 inches higher a position to put a heim (?) joint

thatll give the paralel you suggest but that 4 inch billet will be under enormous strain. what do you think?
 

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a zlink causes bumpsteer and mine has tons of play cause all the ball joints are worn which adds up to a lot when you consider about 1/8 inch per ball joint so at the moment its the most dangerous vehicle ive ever driven so my plan is to fab a high steer kit with hiems instead of ball joints
 

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a zlink causes bumpsteer and mine has tons of play cause all the ball joints are worn which adds up to a lot when you consider about 1/8 inch per ball joint so at the moment its the most dangerous vehicle ive ever driven so my plan is to fab a high steer kit with hiems instead of ball joints
And another dead thread from almost a year is brought back up by the 2nd post. :shaking:
 
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