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Discussion Starter #1
I have a TJ. The stock tie tod is a POS. I want to run a tie rod from knuckle to knuckle instead of the inverted Y stock setup. I plan to run heavy wall tube with heim joints and drill out the steering arm holes to 5/8. Then attach the drag link to the tie rod near the passenger knuckle.

The draglink will not be able to run all the way to the passenger steering arm because there are brackets in the way.

If you have any input or if there is a better way to go about this please let me know.
 

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What's the point? Is the TJ a street driver, or trail only? I'd personally not want heim joints on my steering if you ever go on the road.

Quit trying to reinvent the wheel. The stock drag link is plenty strong (it's solid), get a replacement tie rod and be happy. There's plenty of places to buy heavy duty tr's, if you search a little.

Here's a few to consider: pm to 1tontj, or try goferit offroad.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think the drag link is as strong as you think. Well I am going to make it not buy it either way. Can someone tell me what the thread pitch is for the larger dodge tie rod ends that have the same taper as the stock ends? How about a part number or application?
 

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Hammer, after I bent the shit out of my stock drag link I built this setup. I works great. I haven't had any problems with my heims. I beat the crap out of this rig when on on the trail. I'll admit that is not as often as I'd like and some folks warn that the heims will have a short life. So I keep an eye on them and cary spares.

Your desciption of your plan is what I have done here.
 

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what's wrong w/ heims on the road????:confused:

here's what I did on mine, not perfect but I had to configure it this way to clear my diff cover. I actually prefer having the drag link straight to knuckle form pitman, I find it reduces play in the wheel...

I forgot what schedule pipe I used, I might bend it on occasion (more gashes then bends), put a winch on it, bend it back, then good to go. you'll never break it or bend it enough to to not continue wheelin'. :D

crappy pic:
 

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Part numbers for the TRE's I used on my TJ:

ES2233L pass side tie rod
ES2234R driver side tie rod


(from Autozone)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Kilby said:
Part numbers for the TRE's I used on my TJ:

ES2233L pass side tie rod
ES2234R driver side tie rod


(from Autozone)
Kilby, are those part numbers for the dodge pickup rods that have the same taper as the stock ends? If so do you know the application? I dont have an autozone nearby.

Also I am trying to figure out the thread pitch so I can get a tap.

Anyone else have input on whether it would be better to run the tie rod from knuckle to knuckle or have the drag link go to the pass knuckle?
 

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Heim joints are the devil, I have been there and done that! Never use heims on steering or suspension parts unless your rig never sees the street. There are far too many better, cheaper street legal alternatives.

tierod:
Use chevy shit it is soo much cheaper and easier to come by... Chevy TREs are the way to go, they have a 1.5" foot taper that you will need to put into the steering knuckles and pitman this is not a very big deal.

On the passenger's side knuckle use a 1985 K10 blazer passenger side TRE with the hole for steering stabilizer mount, taper that hole as well. This will become you passenger's side TRE at the knuckle and the newly taper hole in it will allow for the draglink. ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod 7/8"-18 left handed thread.

Driver's side knuckle use ES2010R $23, 7/8-18 right hand thread TRE same taper.

draglink:
ES2027L $22 misalignment drag link end , 7/8"-18 left hand thread.

ES2026R $18 misalignment drag link pitman arm 7/8"-18 right hand thread.

You can get 7/8-18 taps from www.etaps.com as they are not a standard thread (finer then fine thread).

I found a bridge reamer that would to 1.5" per foot in the desired diameter I need, this was about $50 cheaper then a real deal 1.5"/' taper reamer.

Good luck and next time search... :flipoff2:
 

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I WAS pretty sure the TRE's I got were from Chevy 1/2 ton trucks.
But FREAK's post is making me 2nd guess it, cuz I didn't have to tap anything. They bolted right in so they're probably for a Dodge truck. There was some confusion @ Autozone about what TRE it actually was & I had to return one to get the Left threaded one. So, who knows what I've got or what part # it actually is. :flipoff2: :rolleyes: Do what FREAK says & use his part #s... He's got his sh!t together. :D

Whatever you do, though... don't go into the parts store & tell 'em you need Chevy TRE's that are going into a Jeep. It'll blow their minds! :rolleyes:


EDIT: Unless you're re-building your entire steering setup, just buy the Goferit Tie Rod. It's beefy as heck, and it'll bolt right in for about $120. AND it'll have the right TRE's.
 

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TJBob said:
What's the point? Is the TJ a street driver, or trail only? I'd personally not want heim joints on my steering if you ever go on the road.
Bob
Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK
Heim joints are the devil, I have been there and done that! Never use heims on steering or suspension parts unless your rig never sees the street. There are far too many better, cheaper street legal alternatives.
We still haven't heard of an explanation as to why not to use them. Only to not use them. It seems to me that I read once where heim joints are not street legal. I'm not sure exactly why. I can also think of a few manufacturers that run them on stock lift kits. The Skyjacker Rock Ready kits use them on the lower control arms which I would think need to be really reliable. I know RE uses a heim on their rear adjustable trackbar. I assume you had failures? Where these GOOD quality heims or the $9 kind that failed? I know street rod designers that use them all the time for suspension links and we are talking $100K plus custom cars.

Don't get me wrong here, I'm not challenging your knowledge. But, if you had some bad experience, please share so everyone (including me) can learn something. Thanks.
 

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Re: heims (spherical rod ends) on the street

It's my understanding that a heim will give no warning before it fails if used in a single shear application (which is what I understand most spherical rod end steering setups are).. When it fails, you have absolutely no steering.

When a tie rod end fails, it usually results in sloppy steering, but you still have a chance to save your ass.

I don't have any first hand experience, only memories of discussions with others. Maybe our newest tech writer, billavista, can shed some light on the matter. I believe he tried several spherical rod end setups before settling on a TRE setup.

BTW, my setup is a custom setup using chevy TRE's (I replaced both the drag link and tie rod out of necessity for an axle swap).


Bob
 

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TJBob said:
Re: heims (spherical rod ends) on the street

It's my understanding that a heim will give no warning before it fails if used in a single shear application (which is what I understand most spherical rod end steering setups are).. When it fails, you have absolutely no steering.

When a tie rod end fails, it usually results in sloppy steering, but you still have a chance to save your ass.
That pretty much sums it up but from my experience add in that the good quality ones are twice as expensive as a chevy TRE and last less then half as long, thats some pretty shitty math.

Now if you used 1" heims it would probably work.
 

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well, I've broken 1/2 as many heims as I have TRE's. none of mine left me w/ "absolutely no steering." they actually were less sloppy than a broken TRE. just build the setup right.

with that said I find non-broken heims have much less play than a non-broken TRE, & I wheel' & drive the vast majority of the time on working ends...

in my case it was also cheaper to go the heim route b/c I break so many less...:D
 

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Kilby said:

EDIT: Unless you're re-building your entire steering setup, just buy the Goferit Tie Rod. It's beefy as heck, and it'll bolt right in for about $120. AND it'll have the right TRE's.

That's what I have. I doubt that I'll bend it.

EDIT: Possibly because I hardly ever wheel it.......Once a year is respectable, right? :confused: :flipoff2:
 

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They said you could, so I tried to jack my TJ up by the Goferit tie rod. It worked. Sucker did NOT bend... at all.
 

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My only problem with the replacement tie rods is you still get stuck with the POS OE draglink. Not that the draglink is really all that terrible with 35"s or less but when the damn joint wears out you MUST buy a whole nother draglink. The only thing I have found that is dumber then that is the Currie draglink ( Here ), basically I look at that as a $199 passenger's side outer TRE which is just insane when compared to my $23 OE chevy unit that I can get at any NAPA coast to coast.
 

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P&T, you blow TREs because your linkage is poorly designed... You really can't blame them for dying young while being misused. Put some slight bends in your draglink so the joints aren't close to maxed out at while at rest and normal TREs will ast alot longer.

If you ever broken either of the heims highlighted in red you would loose all steering control.
 

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JEEP_TJ_FREAK said:
Not that the draglink is really all that terrible with 35"s or less but when the damn joint wears out you MUST buy a whole nother draglink.
If I remember correctly a 90's XJ drag link is the same as the TJ's. I had pulled two for spares from the junk yard, total cost under $30.

If you are going to replace the entire steering system, fine, but why bother when hammerdown has an 02 rubicon (that's probably mostly stock)? I can understand the re-engineering on a booty fabbed rig, but don't understand the logic if this is the first major mod to his rubi.


Bob
 

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I sheered off my drag link once.....thank gawd I wasnt on the street. I would NEVER even RISK the possibility of using something for street use that is known to fail without warning.... Just My 2 cents worth :beer:
 
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