[Trango]

So I am pretty certain that I will switch out my steering. I want something that incorporates a k-type steering setup, with an aluminum tie rod.

A couple of questions: I called / emailed Challenger today, but they gave me a figure of MONTHS for a custom tie rod. Bummer! I am trying to source JUST the rod from them, and build it myself, but if that is not possible, does anyone know if I could just use some beefy 6061 T-something rod in its place? I have a contact at Easton who could get me something...

Of course, I could always pick up some beefy ERW or DOM for the tie rod, and not worry about breakage, although the aluminum seems so cool. <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

Also, I want to run standard tie-rod ends everywhere I can, mostly because they have a little better 'capture,' and retention, on the ball joint, for reasons of breakage. As this is a concern on the draglink, could I use one of those hi-steer arms on the knuckle, and get the pass side knuckle drilled and tapped for that? I might have to move up my trackbar on the axle side to eliminate bumpsteer, but no biggie. Using such an arm would also give me slightly better clearance with my swaybar.

Finally, are heims (spherical bearings) DOT legal for steering? For now, the beast is my daily driver, so I want something that will keep me semi-legal...

Thanks in advance for any info, opinions, or unwarranted slander. <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Bob

 

[66CJdean]

Just go get some solid 6061. If you are going with the large tyrod ends they are 7/8X18 thread so that will cost you some $$$ for a left hand one. If you do it with 3/4 hiems a 3/4 LH tap goes for about $35 or so.

 

[kutyafal]

Check out spidertrax.com . They're selling tubes by the foot tapped if wanted and heims and other doodas too.

 

[NE-RokToy]

If your using tierod ends ( a good choice) why does it matter if heims are legal??? I don't get it. Also do you really have so much lift that a standard hysteer maybe with a block under the arms wouldnt work? The k-link setup seems like more parts to break/wear and more to get in the way. Also if your not going flexable why run aluminum for the tierod???

 

[Trango]

Kutyafal: Thanks for the spidertrax tip - I'll check that out.

NE: The idea is to run Al for the tierod for flex. Even if I DO run standard steering on the bottom, it won't be a problem, as long as I run aluminum. Since its flex will absorb impact (lower peak forces), it can hang out all day long and not get carked out. Since Challenger can't make me one for MONTHS (at least), I need to find a source for flexible Al with great memory and low fatigue from repeated bending. 7075 sounds too brittle, but 6061 with maybe a special temper might be spot on the money.

As far as the ? on heims, I MIGHT end up running over/under heims on the pass side knuckle if I don't do an arm there, so I'd like to know in advance.

The other thing to do would be to run a WJ knuckle on the pass side, since it has the equivalent of an arm for a drag link cast in (check them out, they are COOL!!!).

Cheers
Bob