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Discussion Starter #1
I just realized that I'm going to have major steering issues when I move my front axle forward. It turns out that I will have to move the steering box forward. Rather than do this I would like to install an orbital valve and hydrolic ram and do away with the stock steering colume, steering box, and related brackets.

I've been told that I can get all the stuff at a tractor grave yard but what if I want new stuff? Where can I get it?

Thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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Got my orbital at Northerntool.com. Search for hydrostatic steering valve. Could've gotten the cylinder from there also, but I got it from grainger. Had a local shop make the hoses. Used my stock power steering pump and reservoir, but I need to make a secondary reservoir and install a cooler. Tested it in Moab last week and was thoroughly pleased especially considering I had no idea if it would work or not after towing it for 1900 miles.

Easy
 

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surplus center has the stuff...800 488-3407 ask for a catalog
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Easy.......Is yours a total hydrolic setup or is it a hydrolic assist?

I've been doing some talking and research and have found out that a total hydrolic setup will prove to be a bear to handle on the road once I get over 30 mph. Since the orbital valve has no center point you will never know where your wheels are by the steering wheel. As you turn left or right the hydrolic ram will stop because of the way you set it up and the amount of through you allow it to have but the steering wheel will continue to spin because the orbital valve will start to bypass as soon as the ram reaches its maximum through point.

Steven <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Tiberian:
<STRONG>Hey Easy.......Is yours a total hydrolic setup or is it a hydrolic assist?

I've been doing some talking and research and have found out that a total hydrolic setup will prove to be a bear to handle on the road once I get over 30 mph. Since the orbital valve has no center point you will never know where your wheels are by the steering wheel. As you turn left or right the hydrolic ram will stop because of the way you set it up and the amount of through you allow it to have but the steering wheel will continue to spin because the orbital valve will start to bypass as soon as the ram reaches its maximum through point.

Steven <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Not True! A full hydraulic steering does not allow the steering wheel to keep turning when you reach the rams end of travel. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/clown.gif" border="0">

What you probably read and mis-understood, was that when you turn the steering wheel, it does not return back to center when you start to move forward(like a regular manual/power steering does). You can not just let the steering wheel go after you have completed a turn, and expect it to start going straight again. When you let go of the wheel, it just stays where it is at.
So you have to reember to turn the steering wheel back straight when you are ready to go straight again.

Also if not setup just right, hydraulic steering can be very twitchy(meaning hard to keep ging in a very straight line at high speed). If setup correctly, this is not much of a problem in my opinion.

Sean
 

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It's not all that fun on the road with street pressure in yer tires. Once I dropped down to 8 psi things got quite a bit smoother. My displacement is a lil bit high at 6.0 so I'm dropping to 5.0 to slow down the movement a little bit. I drove her around at 55(I think, no speedo) and didn't have to many scarey moves happen to me. It definately takes some gettin used to, and I definately wouldn't recommend it to anyone that still drives their rig on a daily basis. Actually, I'd call them a complete dumba$$ and kick 'em in the posterior side. I'm in complete developmental stage right now, with a self designed and built 3 link for the front so I'm probably not your best source for info at the moment. But I'll try and help with any more q's.

Easy
 

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Discussion Starter #7
EasyXJ

I can understand the experimental stage. Right now my project rig is sitting in the garage on blocks. I'm thinking about a coil setup on the front but I gotta get the rear finished before I get to the front.

I knew that the steering would no longer self center but the thought of never knowing where the wheels were by looking at the steering wheel did bother me.

Station

I was told that the orbital valve would go into bypass mode when the ram reached is maximum throw. If that's wrong then I may get back to the drawing board and figure out if this is the way I want to go.

The Jeep is a trail only vehicle but I do plan on drivng it to work at least once a month or so just for the heck of it.

Steven <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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If the valves are like the ones in the backhoes and loaders that i run when you get too full left or right lock the vavle goed into bypass.But the steering wheel will spin real easy till it gets too full lock then it gets very hard too spin any more but it will keep moving very very little so you would know for sure when the wheels where at full lock.
 

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The tractor that I drive every day has full hydraulic steering. When you get to full lock the steering wheel stops.

Sean
 
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