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Looking at that video it appears there is a pad cast in the housing for mounting the sleeve. I was in hopes of machining the 99-04 housing to use the sleeve, but now I think the sleeve is too long. It would stick thru too far and hit the diff.
 

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Skip machining/drilling the housing, skip the fancy connector with the o-ring, cut a small groove into where the diff cover seals using a grinder and cutoff wheel. Run the e-locker wire there and RTV it in place when you seal up the diff cover.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
 

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Skip machining/drilling the housing, skip the fancy connector with the o-ring, cut a small groove into where the diff cover seals using a grinder and cutoff wheel. Run the e-locker wire there and RTV it in place when you seal up the diff cover.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
or just use pass thru bulkheads on the diff cover to eliminate leakage.
 

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or just use pass thru bulkheads on the diff cover to eliminate leakage.
This is what I was thinking about but haven't found a suitable bulkhead sleeve that has a connector on each end. This way you could unplug the outside connector, remove diff cover, unplug inside connector, set diff cover to the side.
 

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i would pig tail the wire. gives ya a bit of room to drop the spades.



if it were on the other side of the ring gear it would not be a issue.

but in this case it is indeed risky to use the pigtail method, so the method the guy chose in the video is likely the most cost effective solution.


those fittings are less then 30 bux and accommodate 2 wires so...
 

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If you use his wiring method you should make sure the large heat shrink you use has the adhesive inside. Lube will wick up inside regular heat shrink. Also make sure you make it long enough to go all the way thru the cord grip. He did, but just barely, I would have made it longer.

In looking closely at the video you could add an adel clamp on the bearing cap bolt to hold the wire back from hitting the ring bolts.

A word about the type of cord grip he used. If it is labeled PG# then it is metric threads, but German standards. PG7 is M12.5x1.27. Very odd size and takes a special tap.
PG stands for Panzergewinde.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzergewinde

The cord grips are available with NPT threads so easier than locating a high dollar special tap. When tapping for NPT threads of the cord grip make sure that you tap them deep enough to compress the rubber gasket. I would use metal cord grip instead of the plastic ones.

Here is the metal cord grip I would use. Very cheap @ $16.00 for a pack of 5.
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...s_-_metal/national_pipe_thread_(npt)/bnbcx-01

It is 3/8" NPT so a tap is not expensive and easy to get.

Me I would put an adel clamp on the bearing cap and put the tab wire connectors inside the housing.

You only really need one wire if you ground the other wire with a ring terminal under the bearing cap bolt. The ring terminal would probably be too big to pass thru the cord grip but might pass thru the pipe threads in the housing.
 

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E. Spengler
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Well, my local idiots want $800, plus a $750 core. Nope. Ordered from Waldorf Ford. Now, waiting for Brown Santa.
 

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E. Spengler
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I like the idea of only one wire, but aren't you worried about putting junk metal under the cap bolt?
 

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I like the idea of only one wire, but aren't you worried about putting junk metal under the cap bolt?
Good point about junk metal, actually soft metal. The Adel clamps I use are usually either steel or stainless so not worried about them being soft and losing bolt torque. However ring terminals are soft metal and not ideal for placing under the bolt head.
 

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or just use pass thru bulkheads on the diff cover to eliminate leakage.
I'd bet Right Stuff would seal that up no problem. I have yet to see a leak using it.

Through-hull insulated stud, for mounting sacrificial zincs on boats.

https://www.boatcorrosion.com/product-zi-series.html
The oilfield cement testing high pressure high temperature machines we used in the lab I used to work in had 3 of these in the side of the chamber to connect to the potentiometer inside. It was always fun when one at over 300° and 20,000 PSI decided to blow out the side.

We were putting them through pretty rough conditions, so I would absolutely feel good about them in this situation.
 

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Called my ford dealer and he quoted me 575$. I may do that. Everywhere wants like 80-150$ shipping
 

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E. Spengler
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I just got mine for $480 from Waldorf Ford in MD.

EditToAdd- Waldorf, because Sneed and the others below $500 have TERRIBLE online feedback ratings, both as dealers and parts. Waldorf didnt, and were friendly and helpful when I talked to Jerry, their internet parts guy. The 2 sellers on ebay at $530 have bad ebay feedback, and worse dealership reviews outside ebay.

Shipping to Ak was $100 since they were willing to do USPS (far cheaper up here). Shipping to Wa was showing $50.

The packing could have been better.

I'm going to get an actual amp draw later.

Are the spiders supposed to look like that? Rough cast doesn't seem right.
 

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normal spiders.



nice deal.:smokin:
 

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Did anyone ever get confirmation on whether or not you can throw an older 31 spine pinion into a 2011+ housing with a pre-2011 bearing kit? If the inner and outer pinion race diameters are the same, 3" in older Sterlings I believe, shouldn't everything drop right in?
 

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Did anyone ever get confirmation on whether or not you can throw an older 31 spine pinion into a 2011+ housing with a pre-2011 bearing kit? If the inner and outer pinion race diameters are the same, 3" in older Sterlings I believe, shouldn't everything drop right in?
I was hoping @snowracer could help us out with this one. He is one of the few people I know that could hold each bearing in his hands at no personal cost.

On another note, if it was different between the two pinions I wonder if you could look through the bearing books and find a conversion bearing with the right od and id?
 
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