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Long story short, have a MS250 that is leaking fuel from the seam on the tank. It looks like there are a bunch of $30-40 replacements on amazon. Does anyone have any experience with these tanks?

Also, does anyone have a brand recommendation for a new bar? Wanting to go to 18” from the 16”, and I’m not sure if there are any good alternatives to the Sthil bars.


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it's a fuel tank, either it is leak free or you notice it is a colander when it shows up and get your money back

kind of interesting, you can build a whole stihl saw from chinese replacement parts for like $300

got a johnsered saw with a 'total' brand bar, seems to do just fine, the original had gotten too worn down at the end where the chain comes off the roller... on both the top and then the bottom after flipping it.
 

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A little thread hijack on my end but is about the 3 stihls I have... maybe someone can shed some insight for me.

MS310. New sproket gear last year with less that 30hrs cut on it. Starts up and revs good. As soon as it gets into a log it bogs and the chain stops spinning. The chain is decently sharp. Carb or do I have other worn out parts?

The 310, 039 and 026 never seem to cut straight which I associate with the chain being sharpened improperly (i sharpened them) but the bars all seem to heat up quick and the bar oil smokes. The bars don't seem to be bent/warpped so I'm a big perplexed about it.
 

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I've used aftermarket parts on a few stihl saws with no issues really. A 18" bar on that ms250 will be a dog, keep the 16". The ms250 is a fun little home owner saw, I own 2 :smokin:
 

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I had a log stick to the chain at wot on my 046 and it hit the oil tank and blew a big hole in it. On the 046 the oil tank is also the crankcase i.e. lots of work and a few bucks to replace. I ended up cleaning it very well, heating it up with a propane torch to drive oil out of the pores, then cleaning it again and then jbwelding a washer over the affected area. Been holding great for a long time now. I had to redo it once when I had a log hit it in a similar fashion to the first, but it was much easier than replacing the entire crankcase.
Even with the plastic gas tank, I would try jbweld first and see how many years it lasts.
 

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I've got an old 046 that had a busted fuel tank when I bought it. It had been epoxied, but still leaked some. Finally got tired enough of it and bought a bunch of parts from https://www.huztl.net/
Ended up replacing a bunch of parts (isolaters were shot, among other things). Took a bit to ship from China, but all the parts fit great, and no issues. I don't use the saw that much (have a 310 I use 90% of the time), so couldn't see spending a ton on it. Saw is great to use now.
 

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A little thread hijack on my end but is about the 3 stihls I have... maybe someone can shed some insight for me.

MS310. New sproket gear last year with less that 30hrs cut on it. Starts up and revs good. As soon as it gets into a log it bogs and the chain stops spinning. The chain is decently sharp. Carb or do I have other worn out parts?

The 310, 039 and 026 never seem to cut straight which I associate with the chain being sharpened improperly (i sharpened them) but the bars all seem to heat up quick and the bar oil smokes. The bars don't seem to be bent/warpped so I'm a big perplexed about it.
MS310 bogging down - if the saw is still running and the chain is stopped, your clutch springs may be shot or broken. There are many videos on line showing how to replace the springs. Many guys just buy a fully assembled clutch kit for newer saws. One of the other signs the that clutch is messed up is that chain spins fast while it is at idle. The springs are really weak or broken then and the weights don't need much force to fly out and engage.

For the hot bar and smoking bar oil, you might have the wrong type of chain on the bar. Bar is made for a 0.050" gauge (thick) chain, but somehow a 0.063" thick chain could have been put on there. Stihl has a complicated system for matching the saws to bars to chain. Stihl bars are marked with the pitch and gauge they were made for. Some times these marks can't be seen due to wear.

Bars wear down and may need to be dressed so that the chain rides square. Also if your chain is too thick for the bar channel it will ride up and be floppy making for a hard to control cut.
 

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MS310 bogging down - if the saw is still running and the chain is stopped, your clutch springs may be shot or broken. There are many videos on line showing how to replace the springs. Many guys just buy a fully assembled clutch kit for newer saws. One of the other signs the that clutch is messed up is that chain spins fast while it is at idle. The springs are really weak or broken then and the weights don't need much force to fly out and engage.

For the hot bar and smoking bar oil, you might have the wrong type of chain on the bar. Bar is made for a 0.050" gauge (thick) chain, but somehow a 0.063" thick chain could have been put on there. Stihl has a complicated system for matching the saws to bars to chain. Stihl bars are marked with the pitch and gauge they were made for. Some times these marks can't be seen due to wear.

Bars wear down and may need to be dressed so that the chain rides square. Also if your chain is too thick for the bar channel it will ride up and be floppy making for a hard to control cut.
I replaced the clutch assembly/sproket at the same time. The kit wasn't much more expensive for it. When the chain stops the motor does bog down, kinda like the bar break is on (it's not). Might replace the stuff again, think it was only like $40
 

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I replaced the clutch assembly/sproket at the same time. The kit wasn't much more expensive for it. When the chain stops the motor does bog down, kinda like the bar break is on (it's not). Might replace the stuff again, think it was only like $40
If it was a whole kit, you might have some other issues.

Are your bar nuts too tight? I've seen super tight nuts crush bars before and then pinch the chain.

Or, could be a fuel/air issue.
Have you changed the in tank fuel filter? User manual recommends changing out each year.
Then there could be a crack in one of a few different lines messing up the fuel/air mix. The pulse tube is a common issue when it cracks or comes off the engine. DonyBoy utube has some good Stihl videos for how to check out the common issues with these saws.
 

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Bar nuts COULD be too tight, I'm always afraid of them coming off. The chain itself being too tight, I don't think so. I play around with how tight it is and doesn't seem to matter.

I'm going to buy a carb kit for it so that will have a fuel filter and all that so at least that will all get replaced.
 

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Another thought on the smoking bar/chain. Is it pumping oil?
Check the orifice for blockage by saw dust, check bar weep holes, too. With the bar off run the saw and see if oil is pushed out. If not then you have an oil pump problem. Not too hard to replace with a kit.
 

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I have an 024 I think

It would bog like that and it turned out to be the clutch was overheating
Never figured out how to stop that
But all the plastic parts that activate the brake band were getting hot and soft and flexing enough to make the brake band drag on the clutch drum
 

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Long story short, have a MS250 that is leaking fuel from the seam on the tank. It looks like there are a bunch of $30-40 replacements on amazon. Does anyone have any experience with these tanks?

Also, does anyone have a brand recommendation for a new bar? Wanting to go to 18” from the 16”, and I’m not sure if there are any good alternatives to the Sthil bars.


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I recently bought a replacement tank, and all the plastics for a Stihl 044. Only complaint was the kill switch. If yours is good, swap it. Other than that.. great parts for cheap. The alternative is to use fuel tank repair epoxy. I put some on a hole inmy MS290 ages ago and it’s still not leaking. As far as bars go, Oregon bars are good and usually cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I recently bought a replacement tank, and all the plastics for a Stihl 044. Only complaint was the kill switch. If yours is good, swap it. Other than that.. great parts for cheap. The alternative is to use fuel tank repair epoxy. I put some on a hole inmy MS290 ages ago and it’s still not leaking. As far as bars go, Oregon bars are good and usually cheaper.


Good to know, thanks! This is still sitting on my garage floor waiting to be tackled. :homer:


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not a stihl, but I bought the knockoff Husqvarna side cover / chain lock assembly and it worked & fit perfect. $20 + a new chain made that free saw my go-to :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Bumping this up, as I finally bought the parts the other day. :homer:

Going to try to get everything swapped over this afternoon. I ended up buying a new carb kit so I can replace fuels lines and everything while I’m at it. I’m leaving the bar alone for now.


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It took me a little longer than I was thinking to get everything swapped over, but the gas leak is fixed and the saw is up and running. You have to take the engine case apart to get it out of the old tank assembly, and into the new one.


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