[Tankota]

I have been crossing things off the list of possible DW culprits.
Started at the steering column and replaced the ragjoint with a u-joint,
replaced the steering box,
got a 4” drop pitman arm so the draglink angle is now almost zero,
replaced two worn tie rod ends,
tightened the steering arm bolts on the knuckles,
no slop in knuckle bearings or wheel bearings,
castor at five degrees leaning back
tightened the u-bolts,
put all new bushings in the stock waggie springs…

This last one is where I spotted the problem. Basically the replacement bushings at the big eye (frame mount end) do not have a “shoulder”. Even if both sides of the inner metal sleeve and the ends of the bushing are up against the spring hanger, there is nothing to keep the leaf spring from moving side to side about 3/16” in each direction. The bushing (even though it is new) flexes/stretches and allows the spring eye to move side to side.
I never noticed this until I had the truck running on jack stands and moved by hand the front tires back and forth quickly simulating what happens during DW. The NON-shouldered bushings flex/stretch and allow the springs to shift back and forth.

If these bushings had a shoulder there would not be a problem here.

Got any ideas on how to fix this issue?

 

[Ben W]

poly bushings, or some uhmw spacers to take up the space where the shoulder would be.

 

[wheelinjp]

You know dave if there was a washer there for it to shoulder to on either side you will still get plenty of flex because the spring can still move independent of the washer and the bushing. the washer will need to be the inside diameter of the bushing sleeve, and a little smaller than the inside diameter of the spring eye.It is worth a shot. So you will most likely need to go to tacoma screw products or equal, and get a few 1in fender washers that are a little smaller than 2in outside diameter. they come pretty thick and there are different sizes in flat washers vs fender washers.

 

[wheelinjp]

poly bushings, or some uhmw spacers to take up the space where the shoulder would be.

Hey ben how those wheels work out? Also unless there is a different unknown maker, the biggest poly bushing we could find was a 1 7/8ths I believe from a chevy spring, so the spacer might be it, unless someone has more info on the later model spring big bushing end of the waggy springs its a 2in diameter bushing.

 

[ErikB]

Try less caster and see what happens.

 

[Violent91]

Interesting...i've got a Sas w/waggy springs and the front bushings are melted and pretty much wore out from the torch. The back eyes one is wore out and one is just a metal sleeve with no rubber left at all...and for a top shackle bushing i use a metal sleeve. I have the bushings, i just need to put them in. But I have zero deathwobble up to 85. I also think its castor.

 

[Tankota]

Do you mean less castor as in closer to 0 degrees or lean the frontend back further?

 

[Tankota]

uhmw...hmmmm a friend of mine (a machinist) made some bushings for his trailer springs recently out of some really hard plastic type material...worked good and I think it was the uhmw stuff. Might give him a call for some custom bushings or washers.

I may end up trying the steel washer to see if it gets rid of the DW...hope it doesn't affect travel.

 

[Ben W]

Hey ben how those wheels work out? Also unless there is a different unknown maker, the biggest poly bushing we could find was a 1 7/8ths I believe from a chevy spring, so the spacer might be it, unless someone has more info on the later model spring big bushing end of the waggy springs its a 2in diameter bushing.

I'd use some 1.5" poly Chevy bushings and have a sleeve made to press into the spring eye, then put the 1.5" bushings inside that. Actually you could probably use some 2" x .120 DOM tubing.

The wheels are great, sitting in the corner of my garage. Haven't had a chance to do anything with them yet.

 

[Tankota]

Good idea ben. Thanks.
Maybe make what appears to be a 2" metal bushing (w/ shoulders that a smaller 1.5" poly bushing (w/ shoulders also) can slip into. Basically it would be an adapter for the smaller 1.5" bushings.

Violent, what is your castor set at?

 

[Violent91]

I set it at about 4* but since then i've added 38s...larger tires are supposed to lessen the castor. I've only been up to about 50 with the 38s yet but no dw to speak of.

Also, as i reread the thread, My front eyes where it mounts to the hanger are really tight up against the 'n'. I dont even have room for the shoulders of the bushings. I'm gonna have to cut the poly ones i've got because they wont fit in the hanger. Maybe your problem stems from a loose front spring hanger mount.

Hell...i dont even have a single shock or stabalizer and i dont have DW.

Oh, and i'm running a D44 if that makes any difference.

 

[mUD uCKeR]

Hmmmm. i had planned on about 8-7.5 Deg of Caster on the diff I made... HP Dana 44 with waggy axles... using waggy springs under a YJ.... Going to be running on 36"X12.5X15 Super swampers... I hope that much caster isn't gonna be a problem. I had always thought that additional caster doesn't do much else but make tire wear a bit worse... The mustang I had, we always got as much caster out of it as humanly possible... (adjustable CC plates).
Anyone think this is gonna cause major problems for me...?

 

[Violent91]

Wouldn't know...i was but a dumba55 16 year old when we threw it together.:flipoff2:

I honestly can't tell you for sure how much castor i've got....I think its 4...if not more. Its more than my friends stock chevy though and his runs smooth.

 

[wheelinjp]

Dave I do like the idea ben has with the sleeve to fit a 1.5in bushing. I have two 1.5in bushings that came from a different year waggy spring that might work for you if you go that route.

 

[Tankota]

Yah, I think bens idea is what I'm gonna do. Get some DOM and some plate and fab it up. Those 1.5" bushings will probably work out good. I checked for any spare ones last night and I am completely out.

 

[Aggro]

I'd use some 1.5" poly Chevy bushings and have a sleeve made to press into the spring eye, then put the 1.5" bushings inside that. Actually you could probably use some 2" x .120 DOM tubing.

The wheels are great, sitting in the corner of my garage. Haven't had a chance to do anything with them yet.

2"x.120 tube insn't going to work with a 1.5" bushing... 2" od -.120"x2 (2 walls in tube) nets you 1 3/4" id.
The idea still works though- just with .25 wall.

 

[Ben W]

oops, brain fart on my part. I think you can get 1.75" chevy bushings so that is another option.

 

[Eric]

Too much caster can lead to DW.

 

[Tankota]

Update:
Finally got around to making up the "bushing adapters" and put in new 1.5" shouldered bushings (thanks wheelinjp).
STILL GOT THE DW

I've gotten to the end of the list on what is attached to the steering and suspension. The last thing is the tires...(38.5 sx)

Other things I did in the mean time:
Castor is now 3.5*
Also made the toe in toe out adjustments several times = no difference
Replaced and Tightened the knuckle bearings to 12lbs preload (one knuckle was too easy to turn (no preload)
Tightened the wheel bearings (one was loose)

Next:
Have the tires balanced by a GOOD tire place
Try BBs in the tires

Any suggestions (Wheelinjp says to get 40" TSLs )

 

[YJ4RoX]

Have you checked your ball joints. I had bad ball joints on my pass side and once replaced my DW was gone.

FWIW i run about 6* caster on my d44 with waggy springs. Tracks great, quick return to center, no more death wobble.

*edit* Doh, i noticed you said knuckle bearings, does this mean king pins as in yota axle? If so disregard my retardism. Do you have a bent rim? Maybe try swapping rims front to back just to mark that off the list as well.