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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have this leak that isd stumping me. It seems to be from the back of the motor, I have replaced the rear main and oil pan, the vavle cover, and the oild filter addaptor. After all this one at a time, it does the same thing. It will be leak free for awhile, but after driving it hard, or on a warm day, it will leak bad, about a drip every 2-3 seconds, after doing the oil filter addaptor, I thought I had it, went fine for three days with some hill driving it did not leak, (40 miles), then I took it for some trafic on the freeway,after getting off 40 miles later, drip back, got up the next day took it to my mechanic, about 40 miles of freeway, and no drip, he has it now, and it is not dripping, I know I am going to pick it up and have it pour out again..

Help

BTW, this is a 98 XJ with 200,000 miles 4.0. The motor is the only thig I have not upgraded.
 

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I had a similar leak that I finally tracked down. The seal on the oil pump was leaky, pressurizing the area around the distributor shaft and the gasket under the distributor was crap. It would come and go, but when it went, it covered everything from one end to the other and you couldn't find it. I guess it was comming out in a mist and the fan was blowing it around I finally degreased the whole engine and drove about a mile at a time and checked, and repeated the process about a half dozen times. I finally caught it. I though I was loosing my fricking mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The side of the motor is clean, only in the back, seems to be coming out of the bell housing. Hoping it is not a cam seal, but I would think if it was that, it would leak all the time, that are is under presure.
 

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Did you do the rear main yourself? I've replace a couple of those over the years, and some I've had to do twice. Wife's Cherokee - replaced it and it was fine. Kid's Cherokee - replaced it and it leaked like a SOB. Put a little gasket sealer on the outside of the nex one before putting it in, made sure I sealed the mating surfaces properly and it didn't leak a drop. Also, the one piece rubber oil pan gaskets seal much better than the Felch-Pros.
 

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Could possibly be an over torqued valve cover, as well. If you are in a cold climate, this sort of thing can drive you crazy for many, many reasons. Do the degrease/pressure wash thing, it helps. And a mirror on a stick is VERY handy for these times.
 

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i had the same problem on my jeep and i found out that it was the oil dipstick, and when its get hoter and colder then the oil finds its way down to the bottom of the motor making it look like you rear main but really it is only your dipstick atleast that is how mine is. hope this helps chris
 

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maybe you've got a sticky pop off valve in your oil pump? Now and then it;ll stick and build to much pressure, blow some oil out the path of least resistance, and then unstick itself for awhile> :confused:
 

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Tracer dye and UV light

I would steam clean the shit out of the engine, then run it with a tracer dye in the oil. Check it after about twenty miles of hard driving. By then it should be leaking, but hopefully not all over the place. The dye will show up bright as daylight under a UV light, just follow the trail back to the source of the leak. As suggested before, you may need to get in behind the engine with a mirror.
This does require some investment on your part, buying the dye and UV light, but it will save future headaches further down the road. If you had the dye and light already, you might not have done all this other work.
I find oil leaks like this almost every day at work. I do not know for sure about automotive oil dye sources. I am in the heavy truck field, and as such I use Cummins oil dye. One bottle treats ten gallons of oil. It is available at most major dealerships. The UV light can be found at better automotive parts houses. Not Kragens, Checkers, AutoZone. For sure you can get them on tool trucks, but that is probably more money than you want to put out.
 

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1. Robet's got a good plan going...
2. I use a similiar method..
3. I wash down the engine with kerosene...
4. Let it dry off (well duh!).
5. Then drive it...
6. When done I use a small squeeze bottle with talc to find the leak.
7. The talc sticks to the oil, and it is easy to trace the leak back.
8. From the description, it sure does fit another bad rear main seal. :mad:
 
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