Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
-k- guys, went out on the Utah/SLC zuk run this weekend to find a problem that I've not noticed before. Apparently even with my 2.5"backspaced wheels and 1" wheel spacers I still grind my tire up into the edges of my wheel wells. As a few of the zuk owners saw on the trip, I put a solid 1" deep slash in the outer treadblocks of my 31" tires....luckily I had the backspacing, otherwise the wheel well would have slashed into the sidewall(which isnt 1" thick) and left me on the trail haveing to swap on my spare (not a big repair, but a major bummer to do in 103 degree weather). Anyways I have to keep this thing street legal (meaning no removing of the wheel wells,fenderflairs, no tube clips) and I was wondering what all of you have done to remedy this problem. I am running the TT YJ swap which does move my axle forward therefore its the front of my clip(right by the hazard lights)that is cutting my tires. terrymac had some sort of gardening stuff covering his wheel wells edges and portnrzuk had what looked like stock zuk weather stripping around his edges to remedy the problem. What have you guys done(besides the BFH) that works well for prevening the cutting of your tires by your wheel wells and can you post pictures so I can get a better idea of how you mounted whatever up and how well it works.
thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,914 Posts
how about some bump stops
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Rockrat said:
how about some bump stops
A good idea. Here is the problem with the idea(not to put it down) that I have can think of. I have the DT8000? shocks..the ones with the built in bump stops. They show exactly 2.5" of shaft per the trailtough shock placement article. I've noticed that the bump stop is actually touching rather early in the upward movement and once it touches, the axle actually pivots around the bumpstop and continues to travel upwards at the tire(in doing so, twisting the spring). This pivoting action is (I belive)part of the reason its going to edge of my outer treadblocks, rather than the dead center of my tire(as it would if the tire went straight up, rather than pivoting). Would a panhard bar help solve with without limiting my wheeltravel? I can actually see the wheel pivot around the built in bumpstops. I can only imagine this pivoting action is greater with bumpstops that are placed even more inward on the axle(due to more leverage) than the bumpstops built into the shocks(but maybe I'm wrong)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
nose said:
Hi Shoesmith,

I had the same marks on my 30" tires. As I want to go for 31" with new axles I cut the seam and a bit mor of the wheelwells and welded them closed. That is the "virtual lift".

Look at my work here: http://www.twistedintentions.com/mo...ic&t=550&sid=b5ce31a34441636cfffd4d423f473b0f

I hope that was what you are looking for.

Best regards,

nose
In that cut and weld, are you having to bend the outer body inward to meet with the inside of the well, or are you hammering the well upwards to meet the new cut? I can see how cutting the well upwards would definatly help, I'm just not seeing from those pics what you are welding it to afterwards(while keeping the sides of the body straight)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
shmoesmith said:
In that cut and weld, are you having to bend the outer body inward to meet with the inside of the well, or are you hammering the well upwards to meet the new cut? I can see how cutting the well upwards would definatly help, I'm just not seeing from those pics what you are welding it to afterwards(while keeping the sides of the body straight)
Hello Shoesmith,

in the fornt: I hammered the sheet metal of the wheelwell up and welded it to the sidewall; they meet in a 90° angle. The close up below is the only pic I have that explains it a bit.
The sidewall is still straight. At the front part (below the headlight) I cut a triangular piece out and hammerd the wheel well forward as the tires were rubbing there. There I had to weld in some new sheet metal to close the gap.

in the rear: Hammering and pushing the wheel well's sheet metal up did not really work. Too much tension; the spot welds were cracking. So I cut a 3" section from the wheel well. I welded a new 3.5" sheet metal strip in; pushing the sheet up with a car jack helped to keep the hands free for welding. The sidewall remained straight.

While I was at it I also cut out the rocker panels and replaced them with 1/8" sheet metal and several gussets inside the new rocker panel.

Best regards,

nose
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
480 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks, Nose.
That answered my question perfectly about what you were posting...I appreciate the picture....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Bushwacker flares give you lots of room to trim and keep it legal. They are also wide enough to keep it legal with toy axles.


By the way, you guys need to post some pics of the zuk run on RME. I wish I could've made it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Holy big pic batman. :flipoff2: I didn't resize it for ya, sorry. I cut and welded about 6 pieces. Used body coat on the bottom and fiberglass on the top. Rhynolined the inside and covered it up with the stock grey plastic panels.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,154 Posts
I had the same problems when I did the TT YJ kit. You have to trim up the front part of the fenders if you want to get full travel and be able to turn it to wheel lock. At least I did when I started trying to flex with the 33" tires

Here is mine before I started Trimming (Granted this is with Toy axles and 33" tires, but you get the Idea)


Tire will rub the front at full stuff.

Here is what I did. Trimmed it up to the lines of some CJ Flares.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top