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ROCPUNK
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I just stretched my 03 tj front and rear.

After hours on pirate and studying other builds I found out that the easiest AND most comprehensive way to do a front stretch is by getting the kit from "treks off road" (TNT customs).

You can price it out piece by piece and you may save a couple bucks but as for an easy no bull way of doing a good three inch stretch, they have it covered.

The kit wasn't on their website but if you give them a call they will help you out.

"98hd" has it going on with his set up. Very similar. Although I don't see how he is running a anti-sway bar with the front cross member cut?

The TNT customs kit comes with a piece of 2" DOM and replaces the front cross member. I just had to get my bushings turned down for my currie anti-rock and shove 'em in- done.
 

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I'm looking for front stretch also

I think I am leaning toward the way 98HD did his. I would do the astro box but looks like it has to have more stretch than the 4" I want and really dont want the pitman arm out front. Going the 98HD route I think there might be room for the sway bar just above and in front of the steering box but not beyond the front bar? Possible?
 

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ROCPUNK
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880 Posts
It's possible but you aren't gonna be able to run a standard winch plate = more custom work.

No kidding: *rotate the steering box flat -you will have to cut the center tube.
*Cut the spring buckets off the AXLE -reweld at desired stretch distance(to the rear of the old buckets).
*Cut off old trac bar mount- reweld new mount to match new stretch.
*Lengthen front upper/lower arms
*reem the pitman arm from the top to accept your old TRE

It really is that easy. I may be missing a few details but that's it in a nut shell. Good luck, have fun!
 

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NERD
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Hmmm...

That makes it very difficult to swap in another housing that is factory specs. I can see how it would help if everything was one-off like a HP44 or 60 but I like the idea of being able to toss in a factory housing without having to hack up the coil buckets.
 

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It's not going to do you any good either way, the trackbar will hit all kinds of shit no matter what.


FWIW I would not screw around with the stock coil mount on the frame... The axle brackets are kinda weak to begin with, so might as well beef them up a little.


And gtxracer: Factory housings? This is Pirate 4x4 you big dummy!:flipoff2:


:p
 

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NERD
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Hey man, some of us can find hp30s for almost nothing and just swap over all our goodies when we grenade a R&P. I'm working on my 44 front, this is just an easy way of dealing with it :flipoff2:

If I have it my way, and usually I do when I build shit, I'll be swapping in the 44 at the same time as the stretch and won't have to move the buckets on the frame. Good stuff to know.
 

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Hey man, some of us can find hp30s for almost nothing and just swap over all our goodies when we grenade a R&P. I'm working on my 44 front, this is just an easy way of dealing with it :flipoff2:

If I have it my way, and usually I do when I build shit, I'll be swapping in the 44 at the same time as the stretch and won't have to move the buckets on the frame. Good stuff to know.
What 44 do you have? Are you keeping your coils and shocks or are you going to something else? Just curious.
 

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NERD
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What 44 do you have? Are you keeping your coils and shocks or are you going to something else? Just curious.
I don't have it yet but sourced a LP Ford 44 with .5" tubes. I'll be cutting it down to stock TJ width and using D30 outers to keep my investment in aftermarket shafts but still have the strength to do digs and bounce my front end a little bit.

I run stock Rubi coils and shocks right now. When I stretch, I might go with some slightly taller coils, 2" maybe, to get 5" uptravel. Shocks will get replaced with some FOA remote res emulsions.
 

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I just looked at mine to see about rotating the steering box more flat. If I rotate it on the most forward bolt to gain the most in lenth it will still require cutting into the sway bar tube and relocating the other two bolt holes. Seems to be alot of work as well. Is there an example of rotating the box thread that I cant find? Sorry I am new to the forum and the search is messing with my mind!
 

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ROCPUNK
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880 Posts
I just looked at mine to see about rotating the steering box more flat. If I rotate it on the most forward bolt to gain the most in lenth it will still require cutting into the sway bar tube and relocating the other two bolt holes. Seems to be alot of work as well. Is there an example of rotating the box thread that I cant find? Sorry I am new to the forum and the search is messing with my mind!

Look in my sig for the link- if that doesn't help....
I will post some pics for you in a couple days or so.
 

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NERD
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The axle spring bucket is aft of centerline.

If you look at the link in my sig, picture 25 (I think) shows the spring cup cut off. It's not hard, and alot less difficult that cutting off the whole frame mount.
Yeah I saw that, I was just showing you can get 3" of stretch with the box in stock location. I like the cup-cut way of doing things though.
 

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Look in my sig for the link- if that doesn't help....
I will post some pics for you in a couple days or so.
What did that kit cost you? I don't need to run an anti-sway and could get rid of the crossmember altogether, so it may make more sense to homebrew it.
 
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