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ROCPUNK
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What did that kit cost you? I don't need to run an anti-sway and could get rid of the crossmember altogether, so it may make more sense to homebrew it.
You'll have to take that up with Treks(TNT customs). As I'm sure each setup is different for everyone's specific needs. But you could expect to pay around $400+- sure it's a lot of cheddar. But that's for a lot of stuff you don't even realize you need.

It's not on there website, so call them with your plans and they will assemble it for you.

It really is a comprehensive kit, but you still have a lot of fab to do. So don't expect to just " bolt it right up". It will take a lot of guessing out of doing a front stretch-

**If I can do it any one can do it**
 

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NERD
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What did that kit cost you? I don't need to run an anti-sway and could get rid of the crossmember altogether, so it may make more sense to homebrew it.
The front crossmember keeps the front of the frame straight and has a lot of structural integrity. If you do cut it off, make sure you got one hell of a winch plate on there and/or replace the crossmember with tube to keep the strength.

From looking at builds, I think it's possible to do a 3" stretch by doing what was already said by hotpeper and keeping the steering box in stock location. Move the sway bar mounts if you have to or add an anti-rock. Remember that the sway bar resists body roll and doesn't have to be mounted to the stock sway bar mounts on the axle. If you can work it so the mounts are 3" back, it'll still work as intended.
 

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ROCPUNK
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880 Posts
The front crossmember keeps the front of the frame straight and has a lot of structural integrity. If you do cut it off, make sure you got one hell of a winch plate on there and/or replace the crossmember with tube to keep the strength.

From looking at builds, I think it's possible to do a 3" stretch by doing what was already said by hotpeper and keeping the steering box in stock location. Move the sway bar mounts if you have to or add an anti-rock. Remember that the sway bar resists body roll and doesn't have to be mounted to the stock sway bar mounts on the axle. If you can work it so the mounts are 3" back, it'll still work as intended.
I Definatley agree about the cross member ( forgot to throw that in on last post). I really think I wouldn't cut it all the way out. It affects to many things - i.e. Engine mounts, radiator mounts, etc.


As far as the sway bar- if you NEVER plan on putting it on the street the so be it, get rid of it. I will say that I ran no rear sway bar for a couple weeks- then put in an antirock and it is a whole other vehicle now. Way better both on and off road no Shiite!
 

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Not finished but got mine started. I didn't really measure but looks like I got about 3-4" out of it. I used the existing top mount bolt for the front bottom mount bolt, then made 2 more.



 

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574 Posts
Looks great!!

What are the plans for the crossmember?
Thanks.

Well currently I have a old leaf holding the frame in place as you can see in the second pic. But when I'm done installing the front axle, I have some 4x2 tube that was orginally bolted onto the frame(It has my winch bolted onto it). I'm gonna chop that up a little and just weld it on now. I don't want to extend the front too much and waste the approach angle that I just gained with the stretch.
 

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ROCPUNK
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880 Posts
Thanks.

Well currently I have a old leaf holding the frame in place as you can see in the second pic. But when I'm done installing the front axle, I have some 4x2 tube that was orginally bolted onto the frame(It has my winch bolted onto it). I'm gonna chop that up a little and just weld it on now. I don't want to extend the front too much and waste the approach angle that I just gained with the stretch.
I like it!!
I didn't go past the stock frame either for the same reason.

I probably don't need to tell you this but, I'm gonna say it for the other readers starting/thinking about cutting out their front crossbar-
* don't forget to measure the bolt hole center to center* before cutting!!

Have no fear though if you've already cut - use your winch plate measurements. Just a tid-bit from your ol'uncle Trav. (I learned the hard way)
:)
 

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You'll have to take that up with Treks(TNT customs). As I'm sure each setup is different for everyone's specific needs. But you could expect to pay around $400+- sure it's a lot of cheddar. But that's for a lot of stuff you don't even realize you need.

It's not on there website, so call them with your plans and they will assemble it for you.

It really is a comprehensive kit, but you still have a lot of fab to do. So don't expect to just " bolt it right up". It will take a lot of guessing out of doing a front stretch-

**If I can do it any one can do it**
I copied their kit using my own parts and I'm only into it for about $150. That includes the $73 steering u-joint. Don't have any final measurements, but my 35" tires are only a couple of inches from the front of the frame. I'll try and get some side shots if you need them. Here are a couple pictures of what it looks like:








 

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Yeah, that's way too much money for me.

I'm on a YJ frame w/ XJ springs SUA. I welded the front bumper on when I put on the XJ springs and will be welding the winch plate on as well, then mount the grill from there. I don't need the tubular crossmember at all.

I've got the Astro box, but I'm so long and low that the tierod is contacting the shaft on the box itself and the draglink is running down hill, hence the need to rotate.
 

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ROCPUNK
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880 Posts
Yeah, that's way too much money for me.

I'm on a YJ frame w/ XJ springs SUA. I welded the front bumper on when I put on the XJ springs and will be welding the winch plate on as well, then mount the grill from there. I don't need the tubular crossmember at all.

I've got the Astro box, but I'm so long and low that the tierod is contacting the shaft on the box itself and the draglink is running down hill, hence the need to rotate.
Really seems like "6 in one hand, and a half dozen in the other"

I wish I could have copied their kit.
 

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Premium Member
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I just stretched my 03 tj front and rear.

After hours on pirate and studying other builds I found out that the easiest AND most comprehensive way to do a front stretch is by getting the kit from "treks off road" (TNT customs).

You can price it out piece by piece and you may save a couple bucks but as for an easy no bull way of doing a good three inch stretch, they have it covered.

The kit wasn't on their website but if you give them a call they will help you out.

"98hd" has it going on with his set up. Very similar. Although I don't see how he is running a anti-sway bar with the front cross member cut?

The TNT customs kit comes with a piece of 2" DOM and replaces the front cross member. I just had to get my bushings turned down for my currie anti-rock and shove 'em in- done.

I wasn't too impressed with the phone calls to answer my questions. Rather odd since they sold me parts that supposedly had some information available. What I found was that they didn't have any information available, unless you talked to the right person. And then it still took time.

They at least replaced the incorrectly made truss I ordered from them. I guess they did something right.
 

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I stretched the front of my tj 3 in. without moving the box.
Do you have a build thread or any pictures of how you accomplished this? I'd like to do the same but I've been staring at the front of the jeep and I don't see how I'd do it. I've got an 06 so my steering box may be different.
 
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