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Discussion Starter #1
this is a dumb question but here it goes:
I have a 1989 XJ with factory alum. wheels & i was trying to change the rear brakes when I discovered that the lugnuts were VERY tight I got all the lugnuts off execpt for one, I broke two scockets before I got out the impact gun, than I rounded off the lugnut. I tried the "bang a smaller size scoket over lugnut" thing, it did not work...this f`ing is really tight. Is there someting else I could try, any tool? Thanks

As a last resort I have thought about pulling off the diff cover & poping out the c-clip & removing the entire axle,drum,wheel so i could burn off the stud & install a new one. any thoughts?

TIA,
Harry
 

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heat it up with a propane torch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Supergper said:
weld another nut onto it or just bust it off...its not hard to do especially on the stock 1/2" studs...
these are the factoey wheels with the recessed lugnuts I can`t get to it to break it off or I would have welded something to it already, but thanks for your help.

66CJdean,
I`ll give that a shot, Im just worried that I`ll warp the rim before i get the lug/stud hot enuff to losen it. i have been spraying PB blaster every couple hours on it for 2 days now.
 

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SledgeHammer said:


..........., Im just worried that I`ll warp the rim before i get the lug/stud hot enuff to losen it...........
not going to warp anything with a cheap ass propane torch:flipoff2:
 

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Can you get a cold chisel in there and split the nut with it??Probably have to repalce the stud when you do get it off... :eek:
 

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Is there enough lugnut protruding from the rim to use a nut splitter? That might be an option, I realize it's not ideal but it might work....

Lesson for everyone: anti-seize! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
SeaBass44 said:


not going to warp anything with a cheap ass propane torch:flipoff2:
hehe
thats why I don`t have a propane tourch... but i do have a oxy-acyctlene tourch.
PS. just a FYI Aluminum melts @ 900°F , Steel melts @ 2600°F
:flipoff2:
 

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SledgeHammer said:
I tried the "bang a smaller size scoket over lugnut" thing, it did not work...

TIA,
Harry
i would try this technique again,i've done that trick on locking lugnuts. and they are smooth.
 

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Get a washer that has a hole in the center bigger than the lug nut then weld the washer to the lug,, The washer should protect the wheel when you weld,then weld a nut to the washer and try to take it off.. Just a thought
 

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I ruined one on my 2001 XJ first time I tried to pull the wheels off. It had those goofy lugs with the stainless caps. The cap ended up falling off on one nut so neither metric or standard would fit right and I stripped it smooth. Nice. :mad: Someone at the factory got a little over zealous I think!

Tried the chisel, socket, torch and like you was worried about ruining the aluminum wheels. I ended up drilling out the stud. It had been over torqued anyway and I felt safer spending the $6 and just replacing the stud and nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
MattS said:
It had those goofy lugs with the stainless caps.
I can`t believe they still use those POS lugnuts, thats the same thing that happened to me. i already bought a set of Mcguard lugnuts to replace the factory Junk
 

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SledgeHammer said:
I can`t believe they still use those POS lugnuts, thats the same thing that happened to me. i already bought a set of Mcguard lugnuts to replace the factory Junk
They have to justify the cost of the POS Jeep somehow. I bought a set of 5 gorilla's brand for the same price they wanted for ONE of the stock capped ones!! :eek: I thought the parts guy was giving me crap but he was serious! :shaking:
 

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larryboy said:


on wheel studs? i think not.
Other than the obvious reason,which I think MAY be off-set by the pressure exerted against the lugs by the wheel.Why not use never-sneeze on the studs?

I never used to but a couple people I know do and I figured it was a good idea.Now I'm starting to re-think it,I'd sure hate for the nuts to back off.Gonna have to re-tourque them in the morning and see whats going on.

Anybody else use anti-seize on whell studs?


Hmmmm,interesting little bit of info.

From McGards web sight........McGard does not recommend the use of oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants on threads. Spraying the threads with a greaseless lubricant (such as LPS-1) once a year is recommended.
 

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I use antiseize all the time on my studs,its mesy but it works great
 

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Dan shsss said:
I use antiseize all the time on my studs,its mesy but it works great

If you check the torque on your wheels often, which a wheeler that abuses their vehicle should check torques on alot of things often should be doing, then you are alright.

Personally i've used anti-seize from day 1 on my DD and it has 60,000 miles on it with never a loose wheel...It's amazing how a torque wrench and proper preventative maintenance works.
 

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My question is did you pull all the lugs before you tried to loosen the last one up.

try putting the rest back on and tighten them up.

this might take some pressurre off the one.

Then try to get it off however you can.


Weld a nut to the end...
Doh it's probably one of them crappy jeep lugnuts and wont work
 

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I've put a little bit of anti-seize on the lugnuts of all my Land Cruisers, never had a problem, never had a seized nut. My current Land Cruiser has 200,000+ miles on it and I've never had the lug nuts loosen.
 

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Main reason that I never use neverseize on lugs is the crap it collects.If you have sealed caps it's ok but I'm not sure how it effects torque.I have taken many lug nuts off where people have used never seize and the dirt and debris they hold wrecks the studs and nuts.If you live in a high salt area I guess it would be ok as long as you brake clean the stuff off before you pull the nuts off.One more thing if you have sealed caps use it very sparingly to prevent hydraulic torque effect.
 
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