[yellowbilly]

Is anybody running a stroker kit in a 351W? I am looking at a 408 or 418 and I am just trying to see if anybody is running one, which one? and what do you think...are they worth it?:beer:

 

[BBrianR]

I have a 347 stroked motor that is great. I considered a 351 based motor, but my vehicle was already set up for the 302. I defanitely could feel the difference, but I also spend way too much money on the complete motor. I did aluminum heads, with heavily modified cobra Injection and so fourth....

If you have the money, it is worth it. But if you are looking for some more horsepower on a budget, there are other options..

Just my $0.02

B

 

[injectedEB]

If you have the money- its the single easiest way to make much more torque (and increase your HP a bit too )
Scat or Eagle cranks seem to be the best out there, you can get kits directly from them - or from DSS, Coast High Performance, or Ford Performance solutions.
Or you could work with an engine shop near you that you trust to get the parts.

I'm building an EFI 315W right now and am debating the ~356(0.030 overbore stock) vs. 393/408/418. I would like the 418, but its all $$ and its tight. With a 393 you just need a custom crank and some clearancing (~$400 upgrade), stock rods and pistons will work. With the 408 you need custom pistons and crank (~$600 upgrade), and 418 you need custom pistons and chevy rods (~$800 upgrade). You can also go full out and go for a 427 if your block is healthy

Some other things to consider
- will the block you have be able to take the extra stroke? - if its a post '74 block (non-SVO) with the thinner main webs, you may not want to go over 393-408 (assuming your going to use it hard too).
- Will your heads and intake support the stroker? If your running stock, unported heads - you may be semi-wasting your time building a stroker if you want mid-high end power too, so you may want some porting and polishing done on your heads and intake to increase the flow of them, or get some aftermarket components.
- will the rest of your components down the line be able to take the power? For me, I would need to be very careful with the throttle or break down and get a new output shaft or the Atlas if I were to go much bigger than stock as I don't trust the EB Dana 20 with that much HP and torque.

 

[yellowbronco]

I put together a 426 stroker from CHP a couple of years ago (back when they called them a 426 and not a 427). They started with a 400M crank and turned down (if I remember correctly) a large seal surface on the front of the crank. Then they offset ground the rod journals for another .175" of stroke (again if my memory isn't failing). I actually calculated the displacement at about 425.5 cu. in. The remainder of the parts from CHP were Eagle H beam rods and Silvolite forged pistons. It was supposed to be about 9.5:1 compression but, seeing as how I have the '69 351 block with .050" less deck height, I am guessing that I have higher compression. It does knock a little and would be a perfect candidate for propane. I have TFS aluminum heads, Crower solid roller cam, full roller Crane rockers, guide plates, etc, etc. However, I am choking off this engine to fit it under the stock EB hood. I am running an Edelbrock Performer intake until I decide if I want injection or propane. It runs absolutely awesome and I have witnesses to it pulling the left front tire off the ground when launching hard. Also, there's something addicting about mashing the throttle in 3rd (435 4 speed) and watching the 38" boggers shoot fist-sized rocks 15 to 20 feet in the air at 50 mph down a dirt road. To say the least, it is perfectly happy snapping drivetrain parts. Cha ching!

Tom

 

[yellowbilly]

I am running World Heads, the Rousch 200's with 2.02/1.60 valves, they are lightly ported. The block is from about a '74 or 75 car and I am running a huge air cleaner poking through the hood. As for the tranny/tranfer....well lets just say they are going to be considered "acceptable losses". I am going to be primarily running sand and fast desert stuff so hopefully it will last alittle while...we'll see. InjectedEB, 393's only require a crank, no pistons or rod change? How is that so, at the minimum you would need different pistons to avoid mashing the piston into the head...right?

 

[deadduck44]

The 393 only needs an aftermarket crank, stock 351w rods, and a stock 302 piston. There is a guy in Valley Springs, SD that has stroked just about everything, even th fe motors, if you want his number just post and I will go dig for it.

 

[MikeW]

I don't really know, but isn't it better to use a 60s or a 70s 351 block because the sidewalls are thicker. Would there be problems with 351s made between 1980 to 1996 because they have thinner sidewalls?

 

[Oatmeal]

Summit Racing sells a stroker crank for the 351W, uses stock rods and 302 pistons and, I think, works with the stock flywheel and harmonic balancer, ends up about 392 cubic inches.

 

[351YJ]

Just a little side note if you're looking for a stroker crank. I've been searching eBay lately looking for 351W parts to rebuild my engine, and there are a shitload of 351W stroker cranks on there for like $250 or so. I'd love to stroke my 351 but the $$ is not there.

 

[Oatmeal]

I don't really know, but isn't it better to use a 60s or a 70s 351 block because the sidewalls are thicker. Would there be problems with 351s made between 1980 to 1996 because they have thinner sidewalls?

I think the major diffirence between the early and late 351Ws is the deck height. The later block having a taller deck and of course the even later ones used a one piece rear seal.