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Discussion Starter #1
I need some help on the brakes of an 2wd '82 Chevy 3/4 diesel i picked up dirt cheap for a tow rig. the chassis was orignally a diesel but was converted to a gasser 350 before i got it. Its got the GM hydroboost stuff.

Anyway, the brakes have never quite been right since i first got it. It acts like the passenger side front caliper sticks, so when applying the brakes, it pulls hard to the right. drive it for a few miles around down and the passenger wheel heats up pretty hot.... obvisously the caliper is sticking, right?

But here is the part that gets me, as soon as i got it, i threw reman'd front calipers, new pads, and a new master cylinder on it. problem never really went away (actually seems worse now). it has since been a few months (i got sidetracked), but i still have this issue and would like to take care of it.

so my question is, should i go for yet another set of reman'd calipers which is what the symptoms lead me to? or could something else cause a caliper to stick? warped rotors? screwy proportioning valve? faulty hydroboost?

Thanks
-Rob
 

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RodeoRob said:
screwy proportioning valve? faulty hydroboost?

Thanks
-Rob
sounds like a prop valve to me. i'm thinking you have some air in the left front which would explain the hard pull to the right on braking. dragging of the front brakes is usually a prop valve problem. i have seen a bad booster give similar symptoms,it was a vac unit...much easier to track down. try your prop valve first.
 

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if you didn't replace the hoses, do that first, then bleed the whole thing again and make sure the slide pins have grease on them so the caliper can slide easily
 

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Since the engine was switched out, check the metal lines also. I've seen them get pinched before and also cause this same problem. The fluid needs to flow back and forth freely to allow the piston to retrack all the way.
 

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I'm going to agree on the proportioning valve. I chased a caliper lock-up problem for a while. Prop valve cured it. Of course I had to replace every MF-ing thing first.:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yesterday i inspected all the hard lines and saw nothing that looked kinked.

I plan on replacing the soft lines, but its proving difficult to find the right ones that there are 3 different setups depending on GVWR and the previous owner has removed all sticker from the truck. I hope to get the right ones today.

as to the proportioning valve, i'm kinda thinking my problem is here. NAPA, Advance, no one seems to sell this and i'm scared how much it would be if they did. I thought about removing it and soaking it in some solvent for a good long while. any advice here? is there rubber inside i would hurt with the solvent? or would this not do a damn thing, it just needs to be replaced?

Thanks
-Rob
 

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Well it could be brake lines (hard or soft), or a bad caliper.
Ive replaced thousands of reman brake calipers (for a living) and have had hundreds that were bad.
It could even be bad brake pads but I doubt it, switch them from one side to the other and see what happens, if that doesnt work replace the lines but usually you should be able to see any kinks or tears in the break lines, and last if it is a caliper just take it back and explain the problem and they should exchange them.

Its going to take some sluth work and new parts to figure it out.
Good Luck!
 

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Try InlineTube.com . Thats were I got mine. I was working on a 78 Ford and noone had one. Inline sold me a Chevy vale and sent fittings to fit hard lines. I think it was only $80.

If your getting fluid to calipers when bleeding and pedal feels firm, then drive and pedal gets soft, then you get lock-up, I think its going to be the valve. When it locks, can you open bleeders and let the pressure off? If so, its seems that the valve isnt letting the fluid go back to the master.
 

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RodeoRob said:
as to the proportioning valve, i'm kinda thinking my problem is here. NAPA, Advance, no one seems to sell this and i'm scared how much it would be if they did. Thanks
-Rob
i don't work on older trucks like yours much,but the 88-2000 c-series prop valves are about $130 at the dealer. you should expect to pay around $80,haven't priced one...should be close though.
 
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