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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got this Jeep in August of 2013. Traded a '95 Dodge 2500 360/NV4500 that I fixed up from beat to death farm truck to something I was proud of. Someone pulled out if front of me in the rain and then stopped in my lane, I t-boned them, their insurance bought me a '93 W250 diesel, I bought the '95 back, got it back on the road, but with mismatched body panels, then some dumb Coast guard kid traded me this '88 YJ for it. My heart still misses that red '95 Dodge.


Day after I brought the Jeep home. Pretty cute. 225k miles 4.2/Peugeot 5spd/3.07's with a lunchbox locker of unknown variety in the rear. Nice 33" BFG A/T's on nice black soft 8's. Bestop seats, roll bar padding, Tuffy locking center console, 6x9 speaker boxes by the roll bar B piller. All stuff I would never buy, but am happy to have. Also had a SYE of some sort, 1310 CV driveline, and a rubicon express 4" lift.






Did some gnarly local trails





Went to Evans Creek
3.07s/33's really shine in the rock gardens


Best friend broke his front spiders in his toyota that day, so he rode with me





Rear main seal was leaking, took it apart, decided not to put it back together.



Built a 4.6 and swapped it in my tiny 1 car garage



Found an AX15 on craigslist 2 miles away, from a '90 with a 4.2, picked it up for $80, sold the BA/10-5 for $220



Simple is the name of my game. Serpentine XJ 4.0 accessories, MC2100 carb, HEI ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter #2



Blew it up because the 4.2 intake was leaking vacuum like mad, built it again, spent a lot of time making a $20 4.0 intake work with the carb. Works good now.


Played in some snow





Made some 20mm shifters




Got a free '77 F150 minus the engine. Sold the whole truck for $500, but the guy had to bring me back all the drivetrain. He did. Ended up selling everything but the front axle (rear was a 9 3/8) for another $250.





Sunk my Jeep in a river, 1200 miles on the motor.


Made a fire



Good friends!


(Me)


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got it home



3 Transfer cases spread all over my back patio. Took the planetary/annulus/input out of a '95 2500 241, the chain/gears out of a '95 dakota 231HD, and put them in my '88 231J which already had some SYE in it.



Collected drivetrain parts all along this time, snagging deals as they presented themselves.





Moved the rear springs back 4"







Moved the front forward 6.5"




 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hover Jeep



Scored a Genrite Crawler tank for $300, for a CJ so I have to move my filler tube to the Passenger side





$1100 for a 300 mile set of 36x13.5x15 irok bias on new 15x10's. Spare has never been mounted


Somewhere in there I picked up a '73 Blazer Dana 44 front end for $100, just for the flat top outers. Made my money back on that one. I was planning to run 5x5.5 wheels until I got these Iroks with 6 lug wheels. I knew the rear was getting custom shafts so I decided to use the GM hubs.


Had the diffs built for $150/ea labor



Shwing!



Time to get the 44 under






 

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Discussion Starter #5








(39/64 drill bit in my little drill press, making room for Dorman 610-219 1/2-20 studs in the GM hubs, did the rotors by hand with a 5/8 and a little extra wiggling)



Tada









Weeee
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Guess the drag link will get heims



Steering box bracket needs to go on a diet


2.5" from tie rod to frame



High steer and lowish SUA makes things interesting, but I think I am gonna make as much room as possible without notching the frame, and then just bumpstop it. Shackle angle is 43*, and the 4" Rubicon express lift springs are looking pretty flat, so downtravel should be decent.



Good night sexy Jeep. (This is as far as I have gotten)



Whatchall think? I had a hard time finding info for putting a stock width HP44 under a SUA YJ, so maybe the next guy can get an idea or two from my pictures.
 

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The jeep is looking good. Love the color.
Defiantly like your wheelbase and interested to see how your gonna cut the rear out.

Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Discussion Starter #11
See, first I was driving down the middle of it minding my own business, it was about a foot deep. Then all the sudden it decided to be like 7 feet deep. There weren't even any signs on the side telling me it would get deeper.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I had to stay out of the house yesterday while it was being shown (I am moving, it's for sale) so i got nothing done on the Jeep. This afternoon I was able to make an adjustment on the front end. Kind of a cop out, but I am on a time frame!





I re-drilled the hangers for the front leaves about 1.5" back. I am surprisingly pleased with the outcome. Brought the shackles in where they won't invert over a speed bump, flattened out the leaves, and only ended up picking up about 1/2" of height. I was actually hoping for more like an inch, for steering happiness purposes. I'll make it work.


Oooh ooh I picked up my rear housing this morning too (had Torino semi float cups welded on)




He said he'd call Mr. Dutchman and ask where my shafts were tomorrow.



4" of rear stretch, hoping to get it level-ish with the front end, hope be able to run a non-cv rear driveline with my 9" and a SYE 231.
 

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2.5" from tie rod to frame

Fighting with the same type issues (but totally willing to chop EVERYthing), I have an option that would solve this AND give both up and down travel! Flip your steering to the bottom of the arms. You'll still be higher than stock (above the springs) and gain a couple inches of uptravel. Many try to do the same thing you are and go with a full high steer set-up when trying to keep the rig low and end up fighting this exact situation.


PS...Love that you've left the front breakover on the fenders. I want to make some when I get to building my fenders as well. I think it just makes the frontend look more "finished" than straight tube fenders. If its a flatty its fine, but on others.......not my cup o' tea.

The look on your face while standing on the hood, in the middle of the river, on a freshly built rig that is sunk, is well known to most any off-road wrencher your age! The disgust, anger, and apprehension combined with the thousand thoughts running through about what is salvageable, what's wrecked, and what to do next time. Glad you sucked it up and have kept going and didn't sell the whole thing to a "buddy" for $500 on the spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Fighting with the same type issues (but totally willing to chop EVERYthing), I have an option that would solve this AND give both up and down travel! Flip your steering to the bottom of the arms. You'll still be higher than stock (above the springs) and gain a couple inches of uptravel. Many try to do the same thing you are and go with a full high steer set-up when trying to keep the rig low and end up fighting this exact situation.


PS...Love that you've left the front breakover on the fenders. I want to make some when I get to building my fenders as well. I think it just makes the frontend look more "finished" than straight tube fenders. If its a flatty its fine, but on others.......not my cup o' tea.

The look on your face while standing on the hood, in the middle of the river, on a freshly built rig that is sunk, is well known to most any off-road wrencher your age! The disgust, anger, and apprehension combined with the thousand thoughts running through about what is salvageable, what's wrecked, and what to do next time. Glad you sucked it up and have kept going and didn't sell the whole thing to a "buddy" for $500 on the spot.

Thanks for your thoughts.


I have explored every option with where to mount the tie rod. Under the arms runs in to the diff. I could start over and make another one with a bend? On top of the stock knuckle tie rod spots puts it directly under the steering gearbox sector shaft, with no more clearance than I currently have. Below the stock knuckle tie rod spots runs into the springs.

All this being the case, I think I am gonna leave it where it is, and make it work. Currently I can shave that mount and get 3-3.5" of clearance. Once I get settled into my next place in Montana I will tackle the 'optimization' phase, but for now I just gotta be able to get it on my trailer.



Thanks for the kind words, I hope to someday highline the fenders out of necessity for uptravel (certainly don't have that problem now), but it won't happen until I need it. I like to keep stuff looking as stock as possible while it secretly isn't stock. I've known guys who think the 1st step of their Jeep build should be to comp cut it.

Honestly the Jeep in the river thing was more funny than anything. I wasn't every really upset about it. From day one this thing has been a toy, if it breaks it breaks. Getting mad or upset doesn't make it any less expensive.
 

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So your high steer arms' tie rod positions are shorter than the factory arms on the knuckles? For some reason I thought they were the same or is just the draglink hole the same? If so, that is something I'd not ever considered. I was looking at it as using a tie rod with a draglink mount on it, not having the tie rod "behind" the draglink (closer to the axle).
I fully get the "just make it a roller, so I can get out of here". I'm thinking about moving and KNOW I'd have a cluster**** trying to re-sort everything after a move, regardless of how hard I tried to keep it organized.
No getting angry doesn't make it cheaper. Mine was usu anger at my own stupidity. I've seen countless others blow-up after their rig broke (usu from being in crap condition before leaving home) and make total 'tard moves. Set on fire, throw jack through window, and yes even sign the papers over for a pittance in a moment of childishness.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I freaked out for about 10 min cuz I didn't know what I was gonna do to get it out etc. But then the shock wore off and I just laughed about it the rest of the day. I was incredibly thankful to my wheelin buds who dropped what they were doing to come yank me out. One even left work early.


Check this picture out. I am running the Ruffstuff high steer arms, but from what I have seen they are pretty much the same design as the typical stuff. reason the tie rod has to be tucked in toward the rear is for wheel clearance, while still keeping ackerman within reason, etc.







Here's a pic of the clearance issues with moving stuff up from factory location. The tie rod (rear) clears the wheel/tire just fine, but the drag link rod end hits the tire. I will be running heims on the drag link for clearance, and it will be under the steer arm because that will keep it nice and flat.

 

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Thanks for the pics, that explains your issue perfectly. I had my pass knuckle drilled, just in case, glad I didn't step up and buy a set when I was doing preliminary gathering!

Keep updating, I love seeing how people come up with stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thanks for the pics, that explains your issue perfectly. I had my pass knuckle drilled, just in case, glad I didn't step up and buy a set when I was doing preliminary gathering!

Keep updating, I love seeing how people come up with stuff.
Like I already mentioned, I have a ton going on with moving, my house is going under contract today or tomorrow, so I won't be able to focus on it as much as I'd like to for a while. And as much fun as putting the rear end is gonna be, there will be nothing exciting about it as far as creativity goes. Plus I just dropped 6 grand into my Dodge (it needed tires... things escalated). I'll keep this thread updated as I make progress though!
 
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