Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought this Suburban from my dad last year, and drove it home from Arizona to Illinois. I'm finally getting around to modifying it with the extra time I have thanks to the Coronavirus. It has a hidden winch in the front, a shift kit in the transmission, a 6" Fabtech lift, and has been very well maintained. We have a trip planned this summer, and I wanted a rear locker. I didn't think the stock 10 bolt would hold up well with the locker, so I put a super duty axle under it with the stock electric locker, and threw on some 37 inch tires. I'm doing the body work on the rear fenders right now to open them up a bit. I will be building rock sliders next with some steps to make it easier to get back in. I will be running the six lug IFS in the front until I get around to doing the solid-axle swap. I have a Super 60 out of a F-550 waiting to go in eventually.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)

Super Duty axle with stock brackets, 4.30 gear ratio, and electric diff lock.




Took the old 10-bolt out and used it for measurements so I could duplicate the brackets on the Sterling 10.5.






The Fabtech lift kit used a bracket to lower the body-side track bar mounting location. I removed that bracket and just raised my axle-side mount higher to level out the track bar. The lift kit also used brackets to lower the body-side shock mount so that stock shocks could be used. I removed those and raised the mounts on the axle to compensate. I have 10.25" travel shocks now that just barely hang below the bottom of the axle tube.




The fit with 37s and 6" of lift was a bit tight, with only about 1/4" clearance between the tire and the wheel well / running board.


I plated the bottom of the stock lower control arms to add some strength and rigidity. I have to keep reminding myself that this is more of an overland camping and trail rig, not a hardcore wheeler. I'm used to building new control arms from scratch with high misalignment joints, but this one has to stay comfortable because it's my daily driver and spends most of it's time on the street.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)







Here are a few better shots of how close it was with the 37s and the stock fenders.


This is the tape line where I wanted to cut, but it tricks the eye to think it's already cut because it's black tape. It should look like this when complete.








First look with the tire back on after the cuts, still metalworking at this point.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)





I still have to do the clear coat and I'm working on blending it better so you can't see the transition in the color.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,852 Posts
I didn't realize half ton suburbans were linked. I thought only the tahoes were linked. Cool build it seems like you know what your doing!

Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I didn't realize half ton suburbans were linked. I thought only the tahoes were linked. Cool build it seems like you know what your doing!

Kevin
Tahoes and Burbs have the same rear suspension (for 1500s).

Looking good! Im really interested in seeing where this goes!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks guys. I still have the Comanche, and still wheel it when I get a chance. I'm daily driving it right now while the Suburban gets worked on. We used to take trips in the Comanche and in a 4Runner that I had with a solid-axle swap, but we kept running out of space. This Suburban solves that problem. I got the paint blended a little more today. I should finish up the passenger side completely, including some rubberized undercoating in the wheel well this weekend. Then I can move on to the driver side.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I fnished up the body work for now, got it out of the garage, and took it for a test drive. Everything feels great. It was quite the chore getting it out of the garage. I'm not too happy with how the paint looks, so I will have the entire vehicle repainted, but I'm going to wait until after the front is done in the future.


Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I'm planning out my rock sliders now, thinking 2x3 .188 square close to the frame with a 2" round .250 wall DOM outer tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I'm working on the passenger side first, I got the square tube portion all mocked up, ready to move on to the round tube. I ordered a Protools notcher, and waited three weeks before canceling it because they still hadn't shipped it. Then I called JD2 directly and they don't have anything in stock either, said it would take five weeks to get a Notchmaster. Does anybody know of any place that has a notch master in stock? I know how to do The notches without a notcher, but it sure would be quicker, easier, and cleaner with one.


Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,325 Posts
I'm working on the passenger side first, I got the square tube portion all mocked up, ready to move on to the round tube. I ordered a Protools notcher, and waited three weeks before canceling it because they still hadn't shipped it. Then I called JD2 directly and they don't have anything in stock either, said it would take five weeks to get a Notchmaster. Does anybody know of any place that has a notch master in stock? I know how to do The notches without a notcher, but it sure would be quicker, easier, and cleaner with one.


Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
I never use my notcher. It's just as fast using a chop saw and grinding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I use a harbor freight notcher. It took some messing with to get it dialed in but I haven’t had any problems with it. I only notch tube once in a while and I couldn’t justify a high dollar one
I considered a Harbor Freight or Northern Tool one, but I have the money at the moment and would prefer a higher-quality tool even though I don't use it that often. I ended up doing four of the eight notches I need to do with my grinder and cut-off wheel yesterday, so it's no longer worth it to spend the money until I need it for another project. I should be able to finish the first rock slider this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I never use my notcher. It's just as fast using a chop saw and grinding.
That's what I've done in the past and what I ended up doing, the notches just aren't as precise. You'll never know once it's welded since they're close enough. Maybe next time I want one they'll have them in stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Slider is pretty much done and ready to be welded to the frame. I had to clean up the surface rust on that section of the frame and paint it. Now I just need to clean the paint down to Bare Metal where the welds will be, position it all, and weld it up. I did not leave much clearance between the slider and the body, so I might end up switching to polyurethane body mounts in the future to minimize movement between the body and frame.



This is what the entire frame looked like, and most of it still does.

This is it after some cleanup and paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Passenger side is pretty much complete, except I couldn't weld the top edge. I figure I'll do it in the future when I take the body off the frame at some point.











 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Well you brought me here, so I ended up reading through all the posts, haha.
Like I said the sliders look wicked, I'm interested to see how you do the front, I may follow suit some day, there super duty axles are so plentiful down here in SoCal. Are you planning on doing leafs or some kind of link setup?
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top