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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
after about 5 months of letting my cj-7 sit in the garage and doing countless hours of reading i think i have come up with a suspension that will work good and also be able to be driven on the street..I am about to receive a front 44 with warn shafts..hi steer...4.56's and lockrite..and a rear 44..warn full floater..disk brakes..4.56's and lockrite..The suspesion i have decided on is black diamond 1.5 yj springs from steve n. avanlache enginnering full sixe axle kit..f-150 shock towers..long travel front ds front jess..and rs9000..Think this should work well with 35's or 37's..Suggestipns..comments..ideas..anything would be great as i want to order everything this weekend..thanxz for all your help
 

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The rear FF44 is a waist of $$$ IMH. Make a 35 spline semi float 60 instead. If you do run the 44 then forget the lockrite. The 44 carrier isn't strong enough to use a lockrite in the rear it will sepperate depending on how you drive and load.
The springs and everything else sounds fine though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
im trying to get those axles for 1800.does that sound about right and then i have to do the front castor and steering...should i take out the lockrite and sell it and replace with a spool or detroit
 

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Sounds way pricey on the axles, a buddy stopped at a farmers yard this morning and scored two HD 44's and two 14 bolts with 4:56's for $100.00 (ALL 4)!!! He just has to remove them himself!!!
 

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I say go for the spool. I am not a fan of Detroits unless they are in the frontend. Put the lockrite in the front and an ARB in the rear if you want it to drive/wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so you think my suspension idea should work pretty well on the rocks and on the street also..I know about the need for a traction bar and all the other things like driveshafts. do u think a early bronco 9" would be a good rear alxle with a wagoneer front
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
im curently running 35 mtr's and am going to go with 37 krawler's when i get more money..ive got a 258..tf999 auto would 4.88's be too low a gear for a dd or would i just have to do about 65 on the highway..im thinking high pinion 44 front with arb and rear 60 with detroit or arb or a ford 9" with arb or spool..any comments
 

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Go with the 9" They are lighter and more versatile IMHO, make sure you get one that is 31 spline though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
so would my best bet be sell the 35's get 37's and run high pinion front 44 with arb and 4.88's and rear 31 spline 9" with arb and 4.88s
 

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I run D44 HP Front 4.88's ARB and a 9" 31 spline rear w detroit and 36's, going to go to 37's or 8's real soon. Holding up great.

Good luck, this shit will drive you nuts if you think about it to long.

BlueYJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yah ive been thinking about it way to much..time to put them money down and be done with it..since the axle i am buying has factory spring pad width what is the best shackle reversal setup out now.I can weld i am just not good at fabbing stuff yet and just want to get this one out of the way and then start on a new project
 

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For a CJ forget the high pinion 44. It is too much work and $$$ to get the pinion over to the passenger side and is not worth it. How wide do you want to be?
It is allot less work to just cut down a Dodge or Chevy 44 for the front. If you get the dodge it will most likely be 5X5.5 so I say it is the way to go.
The 9" will work fine but it moves the driveline 1.5" lower than the 60 would so thats more angle and more likely you will hit it on rocks. Saveing weight is fine but save weight above the leaf springs not below them. For sure do 35 spline axles whatever you do and if you want to save a little then buy a spool and get an ARB, OX or electric Detroit later.
 

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Yup. Find any old FF60 and cut off the ends and weld on 9" ends that you can get off a 9" or from moser, dutchman, mark william's and many others. If you do run a 9" then truss it because the tubes will most likely be .188 wall so it is not to hard to bend it. With the truss it is much much stronger. If you don't have a jig then you can get it plenty close enough as long as you have the new axles. Just stand the housing on end with the ned end and new axle in do 4 tack welds. Then pull the axle and weld it. This isn't "the way to do it" but it will work.
 

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ky4wheeler said:
yah ive been thinking about it way to much..time to put them money down and be done with it..since the axle i am buying has factory spring pad width what is the best shackle reversal setup out now.I can weld i am just not good at fabbing stuff yet and just want to get this one out of the way and then start on a new project
I would not go with a Shackle reversal. It will cause you more problems than what it fixes.

Positives:
1. Better approch angle(as long as you don't use a bolt on system)
2. little better tracking on the road.

Negitives
1. will need long travel drive shaft
2. Causes pinion angle setup problems
3. Will cause Front axle to "walk" out from under the truck bending the springs.
4. Depending on what type of steering setup you may have under articulation the drag link will hit your spring.

My 2 cents
 
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