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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured I would share my uber cheap (I have $40 into this thing) swaybar, in case anyone wants to build one for their ride.

I started with a torsion bar from an IFS yota (courtesy Bender's recent SAS :D ).

You will also need to get the splined ends for the torsion bar, there is a cast iron end that bolts up to the upper A arm, and a steel tubular piece on the frame mounted end. I chopped them both down so all that was really left was the sections with the splines. The cast iron part it was easier to cut it into a square (I'll post pics tomorrow), plus I figured it would mechanically lock it in there so the welds would be less likely to fail.

For the frame mounts, rob the factory swaybar mounts from the same toy you are stealing the torsion bar from. They bolt up easily and the factory rubber bushings fit the torsion bar perfectly. I will likely be upgrading to poly bushings for these since Bender's 200,000 mile bushings have seen better days, but they will work for now.

For the arms, I had Matt (the solidworks guru at BTF) walk me through drawing my concept arms into real solid parts. It took me nearly an hour, but he could have done it all in minutes! :eek:

We converted them to dxf files and sent them to the in-house CNC plasma table at BTF and cut them out of 1/4" plate. One arm had a square hole for the cast iron piece and one had a round hole for the tubular piece. They turned out :grinpimp: if I say so myself.

I bought some 1/4" x 1" mild steel flat stock and formed it to the same contour as the cut out arms. Then I welded them together, making an enclosed I-beam of sorts.

After mounting the factory toy mounts to the rear of my chevy frame, I tacked the arms to the splined sleeves and removed them to completely weld them. Keep in mind the factory splines are keyed (one spline isn't cut in the both female ends), so the rotation of each arm affects the other.

For now there are no provisions to keep the arms from sliding off the ends of the torsion, but I have a plan in the works. It will require 2x 3/8" rod ends and a link between them.

-Redd
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Brian1 said:
Cool, they look good. Uber cheap and in house CNC plasma table do not mix :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
OK, cheap to me :flipoff2:

I'm just using what I have access to, they could be flame cut by an epilleptic coke addict and still work fine, these just look better :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Viewed from the rear, as you can see I am not at full flex (16" shocks), but it is doing a little to help, my front used to not do any of the work, now it does a little...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I could have flexed more but my front bumper kept slamming into the loading dock. It helps a lot for street driving but honestly I'm pretty dissapointed with how little it helps on extreme flex. That could be easily solved by shortening up the length of the arms, but with all those speed holes, there isn't really a good place to relocate them, I have a plan, I will test it out next week.

Stay tuned... :D
 

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Never thought of grinding it to square. When I did mine I simply sleeved it in the middle with very tight round tube, plug welded it and just sort of wondered if it would hold. 2 years later and still going strong. I will take some measurements of my arm lengths tomorrow for you. The arms I have are actually pieces on my engine stand. I run 14" travel Fox's, and I believe my torsion bars were downey lift (7/8" diameter).
 

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Cool man, good to see your junk back together... oh wait, you broke it agian. :flipoff2:


:laughing: Dig the setup... Im lookin at coilovers out back soon hopefully, I may have to give a ghetto swaybar a try. I love junkparts fab !
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pdaddy said:
Cool man, good to see your junk back together... oh wait, you broke it agian. :flipoff2:


:laughing: Dig the setup... Im lookin at coilovers out back soon hopefully, I may have to give a ghetto swaybar a try. I love junkparts fab !
The toy bar was the perfect width for my frame, I will take pics tomorrow. The chev frame has a wierd backtaper on it so the arms had to flare out as they go forward to clear the frame, but it clears, barely. :grinpimp:


Pdaddy said:
I love junkparts fab !
I am so sick of throwing $$$ at this rig, if it's not damn near free then it won't make it onto this truck. All the guys at Blue Torch make fun of my ghetto ways, but hell, I'm the only one with a rig there!

The more I look at her the more I think she is ready for me to attack her with the plasma. :laughing:
 

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:laughing: I totally understand brutha... My rear coils and shocks are wrecked but I still put em on after i shortened it, then I one upped myself and used tennis balls in the coils for bumpstops for this weekend. :flipoff2:
 

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Cool. Good tech.

Bigtoyfreak did this for some test and tune with his airshocks a couple years ago. Nice to see the tech side posted up. I've been wanting to persue this for a while now. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I got my crossmember fixed tonight, and put the sway bar back on even though in it's current setup it's not as effective as I had hoped for. This truck has a limited time here on earth (maybe a month or two) so I really don't see myself dumping more time into this swaybar for now.

For now I'll just slap up a couple pics of how she sits now, the links have a bow to them to clear the frame, since it flares out as it goes forward. I had been planning on building a link between the arms to keep them from sliding off the splines, but in the sake of time and laziness, a bungee cord between them will have to do. :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Right now the arms are about 21" to 19" (depending on hole used) from center of the torsion bar to center of the link mount, and the links are 14" long. If I were to do it all again (and I likely will on my next rig using bender's other swaybar) I would use arms in the 15" range, with more adjustability.


As I said before, it doesn't have as much effect as I had hoped for on flex, but street driving is much nicer.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but.....

I've read your post a few times and I cant find where you say what vehicle it came off of. I was wondering if you could tell me which type of toyota and what year? Also, I assume it's a front torsion bar? Thanks.
 

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1986-1995 Toyota trucks and 1986-1989 4Runners...you know...the Toyotas that used torsion bar IFS. :flipoff2:
 
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