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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,
I'm gettin' ready to spring the duckets for the rear driveshaft for my project rig. I need one that has at least 12" of travel, is balanced (of course) and two different recieving ends. Of all the custom driveshaft builders out there, who do you recommend? Who will give me the best quality for the cheapest price? Thanks for your time,
 

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im surprised nobody has said it allready... jess, of course at highangledriveline. its a no brainer..hes da man!
 

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Just wondering - why do you need so much travel out of a rear driveshaft? Offset rear diff and lots of flex I assume?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>Just wondering - why do you need so much travel out of a rear driveshaft? Offset rear diff and lots of flex I assume?</STRONG>
Yeah, I'm building a 7/8 elliptic rear and I've moved my spring perches inboard about 4" on each side. I've got blazer axles sittin' under my samurai frame, and I'm not cuttin' 'em down as I wanna keep the width. I've got very little overall weight, so I can get away with some pretty serious flex.
 

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Originally posted by Pillard:
<STRONG>Yeah, I'm building a 7/8 elliptic rear and I've moved my spring perches inboard about 4" on each side. I've got blazer axles sittin' under my samurai frame, and I'm not cuttin' 'em down as I wanna keep the width. I've got very little overall weight, so I can get away with some pretty serious flex.</STRONG>
Still, if you are running a Blazer rear axle then the diff is not offset... but your Tcase is?

If both are centered, then there should be no reason for that much driveshaft travel...

Maybe I am still missing something here <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>Maybe I am still missing something here <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
I don't think you are. I pulled that number from a cat with a very similier setup to mine. I haven't finished my rear-end yet, and don't know what the exact number is gonna be. But I will put out my feelers to find out who can give me the longest possible yoke for the cheapest price. I figure too much is better than too little, provided I'm not bottoming out. And I'm just price-huntin now anyway, and I won't order my d-shaft till I finish the suspension and get to measure exactly what I need. But when I do, I'll (hopefully) know where to go from there. Dig? <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Pillard:
<STRONG>Who will give me the best quality for the cheapest price? </STRONG>
I think you are missing the most important aspect of any vendor and our extreme demand rigs. CUSTOMER SERVICE !!! that is why you should buy from a vendor. With that said HADL, as mentioned before, is the only way to go.

Remember when you grenade your driveline from another shop on the trail what did you buy: cost, quality, or was it the service that you now want?

My $0.02
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by SweetCJ7:
<STRONG>I think you are missing the most important aspect of any vendor and our extreme demand rigs. CUSTOMER SERVICE !!! that is why you should buy from a vendor. With that said HADL, as mentioned before, is the only way to go. </STRONG>
That's a good point, and noted. You'd think I would've learned that by now, with as many times as I've been burned by bad customer service. I fab most everything, and I started doin' that after getting fed up with bad customer service and over-pricing. I think I just subconsciously take it for granted that the setvice will suck. Glad to hear so many good things about HADL!

None of you guys happen to work for them, eh?

<IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Pillard:
<STRONG>I don't think you are. I pulled that number from a cat with a very similier setup to mine. I haven't finished my rear-end yet, and don't know what the exact number is gonna be. But I will put out my feelers to find out who can give me the longest possible yoke for the cheapest price. I figure too much is better than too little, provided I'm not bottoming out. And I'm just price-huntin now anyway, and I won't order my d-shaft till I finish the suspension and get to measure exactly what I need. But when I do, I'll (hopefully) know where to go from there. Dig? <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Gotcha <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">

Just keep in mind, that even with TONS of flex, if you have a rear centered Tcase output and centered diff yoke, you should not need must Dstaft travel at all - just 3-4" in most cases.

I just mention this because I would hate to see you spend the $100 or more extra on a long travel shaft (that wears out faster, harder to balance, heavier, etc.) when you just don't need it in the rear...
 

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in 95% of all cases the rear does not move nearly as much as the front as far as driveline slip movement- so the need for a long travel rear is not nearly as high- and as mentioned the heavier and longer travel systems are not lasting as long on rear shafts as we would all like to think- there are a few series driveline components out there that we might be able to make work on a rear for say 8" of travel- or possbily more - i'll check on this-Jess
 

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There you go - Jess pops in with the info you need <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Originally posted by DRM:
[QB]Gotcha <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">

Just keep in mind, that even with TONS of flex, if you have a rear centered Tcase output and centered diff yoke, you should not need must Dstaft travel at all - just 3-4" in most cases.QB]
Thanks for the input. Originally, I was gonna have a centered diff goin' to my offset t-case. Recently, however, I've come up with a dual t-case scheme that would put my final t-case output as centered, and I hadn't thought of the tremendous benefit this would give my driveshaft. Thanks for pointing this out, as you likely just saved me a lot of dough!
 

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I pulled that number from a cat with a very similier setup to mine.
Crawl under his rig and look for the grease skids on the spline that show how much of his shaft he's actually USING. I doubt it is more than 4 inches, in reality.

Longer driveshaft spline-length may just cost $$$ with little reward. But you can brag. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> Personally, I think that running 12 inches of slip in EITHER driveshaft is more proof of bad measuring skills and an overly large wallet than articulation. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I haven't finished my rear-end yet, and don't know what the exact number is gonna be.
Definitely don't buy it until you measure it. Use just the main leaves/links to cycle the suspension through its whole range of motion...

I figure too much is better than too little, provided I'm not bottoming out.
Yeah, but you're gonna PAY in PRICE.

Randii
 

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Originally posted by onetoncv:
<STRONG>in 95% of all cases the rear does not move nearly as much as the front as far as driveline slip movement- so the need for a long travel rear is not nearly as high- and as mentioned the heavier and longer travel systems are not lasting as long on rear shafts as we would all like to think- there are a few series driveline components out there that we might be able to make work on a rear for say 8" of travel- or possbily more - i'll check on this-Jess</STRONG>
Why the differance in DS travel between front and rear. Is it due to the shorter driveshaft, or the offset diff? I would have to assume that if the front and rear DS length were the same, but the front is offset then the travel would be almost the same? Does this sound correct?

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Why the differance in DS travel between front and rear. Is it due to the shorter driveshaft, or the offset diff? I would have to assume that if the front and rear DS length were the same, but the front is offset then the travel would be almost the same? Does this sound correct?

Joe</STRONG>
In my case, this is definetely NOT the case. My front end is in S/R config, with really long buggy-leaves arranged on the back of the front springs. When my front-end articulates, my pinion rotates away from my t-case, so I need a lot of slip-yoke there. This is exactly opposite of my rear-end. I knew I was gonna need a lot more slip yoke in my front than rear, but I didn't realize just how little I was gonna need in the rear. I'm really glad I've posted here, 'cause I already have a rear d-shaft with 4-5" of slip, all I have to do is have the sammi recieving end welded on it and balanced. Sweet, I'm further along than I originally thought! I'll still measure tho, just to be sure I've got it right.
 

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One thing nice about a long-er travel shaft, is that you can get away with repositioning your axle without having to re tube. The long travel shaft I run up front has saved me at least 1 retube so far.
 

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Originally posted by jdjanda:
<STRONG>Why the differance in DS travel between front and rear. Is it due to the shorter driveshaft, or the offset diff? I would have to assume that if the front and rear DS length were the same, but the front is offset then the travel would be almost the same? Does this sound correct?

Joe</STRONG>
Yep, as Pillard mentioned...Anytime you reverse the shackles, the drive shaft will pull away when it droop on the dif side. This is made worse with the addition of a buggy leaf set-up.
As for not needing a long slip front...just ask Rockslut what happens when you have above set-up with "only" 6 inches of slip <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">
 

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My front end is in S/R config, with really long buggy-leaves arranged on the back of the front springs. When my front-end articulates, my pinion rotates away from my t-case, so I need a lot of slip-yoke there.
Pivot too far and you'll bind the u-joint, Careful.

Randii
 
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