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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay im by no means an engineer or what the hell ever or very experienced at this shit at all... i mean im only out of highschool but anyways take a look at this.. and you may or may not udnerstand the concept when you look at it so just ask.. flame away, discuss whatever i just want to know what everyone thinks.



basically there's a link from the top of the axle.. to what i call the "elbow" which is built into the frame rail and sort of "swivels" or rotates i suppose, and on the other end of this "elbow" is a coil over which mounts to the frame at another point.

i believe the pros would be a high clearance "link type" suspension.. the cons.. would be having a place to put it..

so have at it. :D
 

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yeah it will work, but you have to get all of your link length ratios dialed in just right. basically what you have there is a kind of cantilever suspension- go look at a really modifed Clod Buster or similar and take notes from that.

edit: looking at it, i thought you had more links than you do. you need some kind of triangulation in there, as well as something to take care of axlewrap.
 

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That will work and will give you as much flex as you can build into the link setup you use to position the axle.
If you have ever seen r/c monster trucks some chassis for the clodbuster use the same cantalliver setup.
You will need swaybars no matter what.
 

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Yep!

As a previous RC Buff .. look at a Clod Buster or the Tamiya TXT-1.. they both hav Cantilever setups.. the TXT-1 comes stock with one so you can get some ideas from there...

But I think you would have to build "to big" of a rig to take full advantage of the benefits of the cantilever setup...
 

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A friends TXT-1.. lengthend wheelbase, and jeep body, also gets 90 degrees of articulation.. Looking for more pics.. these run Cantilever Suspension


 

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Found that image for you on buddys site... shows how the TXT-1 Suspension is setup, and then you can see links to shocks for cantilever setup...

There is also a swaybar that goes on the lower 2 links like the SwayAway Anti-Rock..





And the flex I promised.. hehe

 

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Nice clod mine wasn't as pretty and more scale(flexwise).
And they didn't make heep bodies at the time.:(
Its supposed to be a cj3b highhood.clod heep

Another fullsize version of the cantalliever is in the Quagmire. It was in ttc a couple of years ago and before that in one of the wheeler mags. Instead of coilovers it used air bags.
 

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Yota Krawler said:
where can i get one of those TXT-1's?? those things look bad assed!!
Your best bet is to find em on ebay... they sell as a kit.. you provide servos, remote, battery, esc,.. but on ebay you can find em all finished and save some money...

I had one all "modified" and sold it for $1050 on ebay a few months ago!! The things kick ass but are the same as wheeling.. they take your damn $$ so many mod's you can do to make `em Better!
 

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This set up can be found on a few desert race trucks. All of the Baldwin trucks I have seen have bee set up like this let me see if I can dig up some pics.
 

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PIG said:
This set up can be found on a few desert race trucks. All of the Baldwin trucks I have seen have bee set up like this let me see if I can dig up some pics.
Here: notice the highlighted shock mounts and rocker arm.
 

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Heres a Baldwin truck that got wadded up. You can kinda see the suspension rocker arm link.

EDIT: well I guess you can't really see it. It is dangling on the ground. Also, I think this is of the same truck but I don't remeber.
 

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Most Sport bikes use a similar setup, not layed out quite the same be the same idea. The main reason they use it is to make a progressive suspension with a single rate spring. So what everyone does is toss the stock linkage and put a real neutral linkage in. But then again on a bike you are not really after a progressive spring rate.

Harley Soft tails and Buells also use a neat setup to put the spring and shock under the bike.

I guess that one real cool thing if you make it is that you could put diffrent holes in the lever. That way you could effectively change the spring rate, depending on what hole you attach the link to.
 

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Wait a minute.. not ONE person commented on the sesame street cad work? Am I out of the loop? While I was out for a smoke, did everybody decide to rise above the "presentation layer" for ideas and discuss purely their conceptual merits? :confused:


On the upside-
This design gives an amazing amount of configuration without having to buy different parts. Just drill new holes / adjust link lengths. Talk about infinte tunability!

If you're going to use this, may I recommend bustin' out the Lego's, a bunch of graph paper, a compass (the circle making kind), and the Reverse Polish Notation calculator..

-tom
 
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