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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A while back I was talking to my budy Kurt about his parking brake. He has one just sitting on the shelf because he has to cut up his tunnel to get it to fit. His cases aren't even lifted. I told him I was planning to build my own, and I'd not have to cut the tunnel even after lifting as far as I could. Well if you've seen my new cross member I built (here) you can see I lifted it pretty much as far as possible with out beating on the body with a hammer. Kurt didn't think I could do it with only hand tools and only buying raw materials, the brake pads and springs.

So the challange was set, to build a custom parking brake that:
A. Only using common tools IE grinder, die grinder, drill press, and welder, no mills lathes, plasma, pattern cutter, ect.
B. Only using raw materials, pads and springs.
C. Must fit without cutting the tunnel
D. Must be cheeper than Sky and APOF's $200 unit
E. Can't look like a fucking flower box for a window when done, and can't weigh a ton.
F. Must mount to the transfer case and rear driveshaft.

Ok sounds simple right? Well actually it's not that hard, yet at least. I got the hard part out of the way already. I went to Napa and asked the guy for the smallest brake pads he had in stock. Came up with some random pad, actually the second smallest as a 1.25 inch wide pad sounded a bit small (should have asked him wtf that was for!). I then started measuring things and came up with aproximatly a 7.75 inch disc diameter would work without cutting (I think II'll need a hammer, but cutting should not be needed). I've got a nice big piece of 1/4 inch plate laying here, so I started cutting. Here's where I'm at so far.


First cuts: I measured a center point of of some fairly straight edges from my piece. I then marked off a square, and got out a compass with a point on one end and a scrib in the other (Hint: any good drafting compass comes with two sharp tips, and they don't cost much if you don't have one)



Second cuts, still with a cut off wheel on the trusty ol Dewalt.


Finished up the outer radius with a flap wheel on the Dewalt.


Drilled the flang bolt holes, gas escape hole, cleaned it up and scribed for the center hole.


Now I don't happen to have a 2.25 hole saw handy, and I didn't feel like paying for one! So for the center hole I went to the drill press and drilled about 20 1/4 holes just to the inside of that scribed line. Went edge of hole to edge of hole, to edge of line. Got done with that, set it on top of the open vice and hit it with the ball side of a ball pien hammer a couple times and out poped the middle. Here is where a die grinder is a must (or a good Dremel). I didn't have a carbide burr, but I highly recommend it! I will be buying one after this because it was not a fast process, BUT IT WORKED! Here it is all cleaned up with the drive flang sitting on it.



Next up is the 1/4 inch plate that bolts to the transfer case. Might start that tonight yet.
 

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nice job on the grinder made circle:smokin:

I'm looking forward to seeing the final product as i was thinking on buying one of those t-case e-brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Yeah it should be interesting to see what happens with this. I looked at it for a while tonight. That drive flange is off of my spare case, so I took the rear housing off of that case tonight as well. Set it all on the work bench and looked at it. I had a plan for building the mount, but I still spent an hour scratching my head, looking at it, drawing, scratching my head some more. Then quit and worked on my timing chain cover for the engine I'm building.

Anyway, the pads, no idea of the application. They are NAPA part number TS-7353M. If you search their site you'll get no returns, but that's the PN right off the NAPA receipt, so whatever. I'm going to end up modifying them a little, I'll be sure to keep taking lots of pics for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I hate spending money. Being a college student off school working on coop right now, I've got more time than money (well not really, but my time goes farther than my money), and it's a hell of a lot funner to build it yourself! And then I know it'll fit just right and be built the way I like it.


I've reformulated my plan, I'm ready to take over the world Muhahahaha, Oh opps, umm I mean build a parking brake! Get started again tomorrow night after the desk job.
 

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Dude, DAMN good job on that hand made disc! I couldnt ever get a circle that good if I had a million years! I too like to see people making things that are easily bought simply for the fun of it (or in you case because you feel the ready to buy version is too much at the time, lol).

By the way, older Jaguars with the independent rear suspension use inboard disc brakes and have a whole second mechanical only self adjusting caliper assebly just for the emergency brake. That way, they use their own pads so it stays adjusted longer in theroy since the main brake isnt wearing down the same pad used for the parking brake. The reason I bring this up, is because the pads that go in that caliper are about 2" square. Just a little thing I thought of while reading since I used to work for a Jaguar shop, haha.

~T.J.
 

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i'll be watching this one.

question: i just replaced $100 worth of ebrake cables and hardware a year ago, and i did a chevy swap a month ago, preventing my ebrake from working. should i just extend my standard ebrake arms or is a t case setup worth it? only advantage i see is if i were to swap to rear disc brakes i wouldn't need to worry about an ebrake....
 

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That circle is impressive. Nice work. If it's going to be on a Daily, I would recommend taking it to the machine shop and have them true it on the lathe unless you have access to one. I don't know if it's just the camera angle, but it looks like the yoke bolt holes are off center towards the right of the pic. Just my .05 cents worth.
 

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i know this is for an ebrake... but has anyone thought of doing exactly what he has done but only tie the transfer case brake into the rear brakes? so when you use your normal foot brake it will at more braking power, which would help with dealing with larger tires and undersized brakes of toyota(i drive an older toyota and only assume that braking is still a problem with tacoma's)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Renaud33 said:
:flipoff2: The key is will it work when your finished.
See he still thinks I can't do it. :shaking: Just you wait!


somebourbon said:
That circle is impressive. Nice work. If it's going to be on a Daily, I would recommend taking it to the machine shop and have them true it on the lathe unless you have access to one. I don't know if it's just the camera angle, but it looks like the yoke bolt holes are off center towards the right of the pic. Just my .05 cents worth.
You didn't read the thread very well did you? it's possible, but I doubt it's much, and I'm not worried about it because:


MT4Runner said:
Why not bolt it up to the t-case (leave the driveshaft off!!! -d'oh!) and true it up with your angle grinder?!
Exactly. I don't like being under the truck when the engine is running, but I'll take off both drive shafts (need to take the t-case cross member down and paint it anyway, can't take it down with the front shaft on) and support the grinder against a block so it doesn't just bounch with the very minor imperfections and make them worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
84Toyota4x4 said:
Dude, DAMN good job on that hand made disc! I couldnt ever get a circle that good if I had a million years! I too like to see people making things that are easily bought simply for the fun of it (or in you case because you feel the ready to buy version is too much at the time, lol).

By the way, older Jaguars with the independent rear suspension use inboard disc brakes and have a whole second mechanical only self adjusting caliper assebly just for the emergency brake. That way, they use their own pads so it stays adjusted longer in theroy since the main brake isnt wearing down the same pad used for the parking brake. The reason I bring this up, is because the pads that go in that caliper are about 2" square. Just a little thing I thought of while reading since I used to work for a Jaguar shop, haha.

~T.J.
Good info there thanks.

And actually cutting the circle was easy. There is a reason why I used the flap wheel for the last step. They cut slower, and don't create a burr on both sides of the material, so I could see the scribe line untill I was right on it, knowing where my cutting surface was the entire time. Normal grinding wheels create a line of burrs that curel up and cover your line. The also create a lot more heat.

BTW the pads I'm using are about 1.75x2.5. They still don't 100% fully engage on the disc, about 1/4" of the pad will stick off of the bottom, so the Jag pads would be too tall and not long enough, IMO.
 
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