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Dude, you're a union weldor, not generally considered too high on the intelligence scale. :laughing:

Not to fear, though, I have a few things to do. :evil:
They stereotypical 4x4 guy isn't too bright either, if you're following stereotypes, you might as well call everybody here idiots too.

BTW, when you find a very skilled and talented welder, you will likely find they're not dumb. ....regardless of the stereotypes jealous people want to create.

Now, go along...and play in the sandbox. You have nothing to post but criticisms and hatred, so go away and quit bothering people. I'm starting to think you want on my ignore list.
 

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If you want to talk about unions, there is a thread just for that in chitchat. Last I checked this was the tech section and this thread was about welding.



For fucks sake, let it go and get back to the origional subject.



word :flipoff2:
 

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Color and penetration are way overrated on the internet. The reason is because people think that penetration means a good weld. With a proper weld joint, you only need to break the surface of the parts being welded, rather than burn deeply into them.
Hi Engloid, good to see you back and I hope you can offer some of your experince and knowledge before letting the butt hurt crew get to you.

Im a novice using GMAW, reading your above comment has me thinking. Just yesterday I was fillet welding some 50x25x2.5mm RHS to some 65x65x4mm SHS. I have been reading a good tech book (Theory and Practice of GMAW: S.A. Davies) it states a voltage of 14-16 for 3mm thick fillet with 90-100amps. To me, going from the welding I have done, this seemed to low. Cross referencing the settings on my machine (kemppi 250amp) I ended up running 28-30 volts and about 6.2 meters per minute of wire feed...I just felt that on the lower setting it would be way to cold and get insuficent penetration. I will try and get some pics of welds in both settings in the next few days and post them up for your critique.

cheers,
Serg
 

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ok, here are some pics: 65x65x4mm SHS with 50x25x2mm RHS Fillet welded

Gas flow is 15 litres per minute

First 2 are at 22.6 volts and 3.25 meters per minute wire speed. I dont think I would like to go any lower on Voltage than this:

Second 2 are at 23.8 volts and 3.75 meters per minute wire speed. This felt about right.

my biggest concern as a novice, is not getting enough penetration. But ovbiously it is ideal to only put in as much heat as needed to reduce warping etc
 

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Hey Serg,
How have things been?
A lot depends on personal touch which brings in personal setting differences. What one welders settings may be can differ from the next although a base or starting point could be found.
Both settings would be fine although it looks like you fade off on peno towards end of run. First runs at lower setting is fine but your gun speed would differ from the next but probably perform the same.When at the end of run pause & roll back or flick back to eliminate perocity faults in root of weld which can be seen. This also gives a good landing to continue weld on a stop-start run.
Welds are a bit upright too.:flipoff2:



brooksy
 

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Hey Serg,
How have things been?
A lot depends on personal touch which brings in personal setting differences. What one welders settings may be can differ from the next although a base or starting point could be found.
Both settings would be fine although it looks like you fade off on peno towards end of run. First runs at lower setting is fine but your gun speed would differ from the next but probably perform the same.When at the end of run pause & roll back or flick back to eliminate perocity faults in root of weld which can be seen. This also gives a good landing to continue weld on a stop-start run.
Welds are a bit upright too.:flipoff2:



brooksy
Hi Brooksy, been ok mate, busy with work and surf....:D

I wasnt to concerned with the end of the run as these were just setting runs. If I end a run that doesnt need another started off that point, I do as you described. If I'm going to start of the end of it I usally let it taper off like that. That little perocity fault is not a pin hole...I hold the gun over the end even after I have relased the trigger as the gas will continue to flow for a touch after. Regarding Up right, do you mean I have the gun to flat and should hold the back of it higher? try and get the weld to be 45 degree? ive been a bit slack in that department as I have been more concerned with for and aft angle (ie push or pull) becasue when I did a weld at TAFE I destroyed it and saw the results of to much lead angle pushing.....weld just sat on top...

as far as those settings....some interesting results below with some simple distruction
 

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frist 2 pics are the same weld as the first 2 pics in my previous post. This was on the slightky lower settings 22.6v and 3.25m/min wire speed....

the weld only scratched the surface of the 65x65x4mm SHS. All I did was leave one side (50mm) fillet weld and hit the 50x25 with a 32oz ball pein hammer. I was able to do this with the 65x65 in my hand.
 

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second 2 pics are from the higher settings of 23.8v BUT 3.5m/min. Same distructive test except I had to put the 65x65 in a vice... It was a little better, atleast it started to deform the 50x25. This was not the weld shown in the 2nd pic of pervious post.
 

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3rd pics are of the 2nd weld in pervious post. It was on the same settings as the above, but with the 3.75 wire speed. A much better result with the 50x25 failing before the weld. The weld had not let go at all in these pics
 

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Summary: alot of you probably think this lame, sure its not the standard of some of the stuff on this site, but I dont think the majority are either....so many variables and so many little things can go wrong. This was a simple continious weld with only slightly different settings with a huge difference in results. I have seen pis of the "Stack-o-dimes" MIG here and on other sites, done by guys that do not stop/start, do not pulse the trigger or use the timmer functions etc..ie continious. These are probably never going to be a problem. But I have also seen pics of weld here, by big name company, that are going for that same look, and they were clearly stop start, with little pin holes in every weld.......

Im a firm beliver, as a novice, it is important to get the proper basics dialed in and worry about the quality of the weld, rather than the look/asthetic.

I doubt Ill ever be happy with my welding and thats fine, because as it gets better Ill be able to set the bar just that little bit higher for myself....
 

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OMG not this thread again!:shaking:
 

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I would like to bring this thread back and ask for a mig critique.

This is a 1/2 inch recovery point welded to 1/4 inch plate.

Miller 251 set as per instruction on machine, Argon/ c02 mix, .035 wire

Material cleaned with 120 flap, wire wheel, Xylene prior to weld.

These are not Tack, tack, tack welds, I didn't even know those existed and I feel slightly robbed now as I have realize a lot of the beautiful welds I have tried to emulate are tack tack welds. Now that I know what to look for I can identify them rather quickly.

Be honest, I want strength over beauty, that is kind of the point if you ask me.

Dan
 

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