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I could be mistaken, but I poked around a bit and it looks like the business entity may still exist in California. Unless someone else was operating under the same name.
That's most likely t.g. In fresno...
Cuz Jim went back east\ mid west.
 

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Ive got a better understanding of how the tc works now and i get the varying in reduction from it. It essentially becomes a 1:1 at stall speed. I wasnt understanding that part at first.
Ill be doing a 4wu 3 link. Its gonna be my crawler. I was planning on keeping the chain case to keep driver drop and not deal with the exhaust thats on the passenger side.
As for gearing my thought was go 2.28 in reduction box to keep from having the extra torque running through the chain case. Figure in double low itd be close to my manual in 4.7..
If i hate it i could always full the reduction box and add 4.7s later.
I actually spoke with jim from inchworm last wednesday, and he is working on getting some distributors to start selling again.
No shitt?????
Care to elaborate?
That's sweet.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
On which part? The inchworm?
I had talked to trevor at marlin crawler who said they may start offering the tacobox with the inchworm adapters, as marlin is out of stock on theirs and doesnt have an eta of them being back in stock. So i figured if they were gonna do that why not try to go through inchworm directly. I just looked up inchworm and found their number online, called it and jim answered. Talked a minute about what i was looking to do. And he asked for my email. Said he was looking to get some distributor lined up as he wasnt sure he wanted to do direct sales. And that he would email me some more info. That was wednesday the 8th. I havent heard anything back yet though.
 

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Funny how every rig but a Toyota does everything with just 4:1, then you come in here and you NEED 250:1 or you can't wheel :flipoff2:

The thing I don't like about the 4.7 taco box is that the 4.7 is such a useful gear and I wouldn't want to be using just the 4.7 with the rear in low all the time.

I really think the 5.88:1 will be plenty. Even the stock low in our 96 4runner is pretty good for most things.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Funny how every rig but a Toyota does everything with just 4:1, then you come in here and you NEED 250:1 or you can't wheel <a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0" alt="" title="flipoff2" >:)</a>

The thing I don't like about the 4.7 taco box is that the 4.7 is such a useful gear and I wouldn't want to be using just the 4.7 with the rear in low all the time.

I really think the 5.88:1 will be plenty. Even the stock low in our 96 4runner is pretty good for most things.
And thats what im leaning towards. Ill have my stock low 2.57, then i can double down with the 2.28 if needed. If i feel i need more ill regear to the 4.7.
 

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Funny how every rig but a Toyota does everything with just 4:1, then you come in here and you NEED 250:1 or you can't wheel :flipoff2:

The thing I don't like about the 4.7 taco box is that the 4.7 is such a useful gear and I wouldn't want to be using just the 4.7 with the rear in low all the time.

I really think the 5.88:1 will be plenty. Even the stock low in our 96 4runner is pretty good for most things.
Why not run the 4.7 under and the t case direct?


Runnin the con and not using the brakes like the heeps ROCKS!
But yea I run 3rd 4th low under most days, until I get behind a jeep.
But I'm old and slow:flipoff2:
 

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Why not run the 4.7 under and the t case direct?


Runnin the con and not using the brakes like the heeps ROCKS!
But yea I run 3rd 4th low under most days, until I get behind a jeep.
But I'm old and slow:flipoff2:
Because you're putting 4.7x's the torque through a chain drive tcase, without any reduction behind it. Just like everyone says not to put the 4.7s in the craw box with dual gear drive cases. Heck, people even say to try to not use 2.28 only with a crawl box.

You have a manual? If so, its really not even the same conversion.
 

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people have been running 4.7's in front of taco cases for over a decade.

is 4.7+2.57 necessary with an auto? Probably not. Would I do it? No. 2.28+2.57+auto has been more than low enough for anything I've ever done.
 

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people have been running 4.7's in front of taco cases for over a decade.

is 4.7+2.57 necessary with an auto? Probably not. Would I do it? No. 2.28+2.57+auto has been more than low enough for anything I've ever done.
Right, and people who wheel hard have been putting atlas' in them even longer :flipoff2:

I like 4.7 by itself when you need a little more wheel speed. Eventually, the rear case will give.
 

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Right, and people who wheel hard have been putting atlas' in them even longer :flipoff2:

I like 4.7 by itself when you need a little more wheel speed. Eventually, the rear case will give.
I'm not sure there's been many documented cases (no pun intended) of the 4.7 exploding the chain drive... But, it doesn't really matter...
 

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I'm not sure there's been many documented cases (no pun intended) of the 4.7 exploding the chain drive... But, it doesn't really matter...
Not saying the case is weak. But putting 4.7x's the torque through any case isn't something that I would do on my rig. Like I said, I like to use 4.7 gear for a more wheel speed or thrashing around in the snow.
 

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I have an '02 Tacoma w/Marlin 4.7 to the factory chain drive t-case and an A340f Auto (5.29 axle gears w/37's). In low, low, 1st, at idle it pulls through the brakes... at ~1/2 MPH or less. I suspect the engine is not putting out full torque rating at idle, so I'm not worried about it. When I crawl with it, I frequently use the 4.7 by itself for speed/control and sometimes I crawl with low-low at idle to mild throttle and that is all it needs to move over the nastiest obstacle. I don't like and avoid mud, and would be using the chain case low range or high range in mud or slippery surfaces anyways. Steep extended downhill I use low, low and start in 1st; once I get tired of how slow it is, I can shift to 2nd or 3rd seamlessly (lock out overdrive) without scaring myself or passengers and have excellent downhill hold-back and control. I like having the 4.7 or 2.56 choice. I'm aware that if I mash the throttle and shift into gear, bad things will happen; I don't do that. The only times I've ever had any high RPM use is showing how slow it is or moving the 20 feet to the next obstacle and too lazy to shift the 4.7 out. In 12 years of moderate to very difficult (wherever you can crawl full body) I've broken one front hub from the extra torque provided by the low-low combination, and that was a stupid mistake on my part. At home I frequently use the low-low-1st to self extract my tractor from it's predicament in the mud; at idle. If it went full throttle, the truck is going under 5 MPH, so I figure I can catch it and gently shift to Neutral and it usually stops within a few feet.

I used to run a Samurai with pretty low gearing and it would provide a possible 9000 ft-lbs to the sub 1" axle shafts. Only broke one once and on flat ground with no throttle engaged; pretty sure the lock-rite caused that one. Drive like you know your rig and don't feel like fixing it and mostly you won't have the kinds of issues worried about in this thread. I've broken steering boxes, leaf springs, other unfortunate trail problems, but drive train hasn't been an issue.
 
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