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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
http://www.toy4x4.net/bob/

I can't believe there is no final rolling picture of the thing. But it drives.. On the freeway and everything. I also wanted to post a picture of my dents and scratches for you guys but apparently I never took that picture either.
 

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Very nice.

Out of curiousity, what did you do about the steering column?

I've looked at my own 99 Taco and for the most part, a SAS swap appears to be a slam dunk deal except for the blasted steering column that points the steering shaft straight down <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

Any pics of it at THAT end? And was that a Toy IFS 4x4 box you used?
 

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Originally posted by Lil'John:
<STRONG>Very nice.

Out of curiousity, what did you do about the steering column?

</STRONG>
Well these other Taco SAS guys did it differently, im not sure why <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">
It seems like the took the hard way of doing this.
All you have to do is unbolt and completly remove stock taco steering shaft from about a foot below the steering wheel, down. and junk it!! Also youll need to remove the plate/bushing where the shaft passes throught the firewall. Then get the complete (u-joint to ujoint) steering shaft (column) from a 86-95 Toy. and bolt it up in place of the taco shaft. You will want to make a new plate to bolt up where the shaft passes through the fire wall just to keep out the weather.
You also may need to slightly shorten the shaft depeneding on where you mount your steering box.
Oh BTW, yes we use a Toy IFS steering box for Taco SASs.
If ya have any more questions jus ask.
later bud, <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, a toy IFS 4x4 box.
Pictures. Hmm. Don't got none! Well, basically you pull out the plate that the shaft goes through the firewall at. Then you have a choice. You can either make the original plate work or you can cut out a new one. We cut out a new plate and bent it to bolt up. Then we put a bearing in the plate to allow the shaft to go through. The shaft goes through and then we just used some 5/8 rod and mated it up to the pieces of steering shaft that I got from PNP. One piece was from an 87 toy pickup and the other was from some old datsun.

I believe there is also a way of using the stock tacoma shafts along with some sort of an extension. Someone pointed the u-joints out as being weak though.
 

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how's the pinion angle after using those drop down rear spring hangars? Why'd you use those anyway?
 

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Looks good! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Just need to finish the little things and then get out and flex! I should be starting mine next weekend but it's going to take a while to get it done since I'm doing most of it a little diffrent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The pinion angle in the rear looks alright. I haven't measured it. We used the drop hangar so that I could get away without running a 15" shackle (I'm trying really hard to stay away from a block). It looks as though I still need something like a 12" shackle (currently at 6") and maybe a small block. The rear is about 5-6" lower than the front. The AllPro 5" long travels are BIG springs. I hope they sag sometime soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Shawn,
What would happen to your truck if you took the BPV "stuff" and tied it up as high as it could go? I ask because mine is cable tied up high but the brakes are really squishy. I'm wondering if that's my problem. I'm going to try it later today unless you tell me for sure that that's not it.

And how much $ do you want for those extended ones?
 

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well thats what I'm going to do with mine. I'm not positive how it will work but it should be fine. Check with frankentaco. I think he has his zip tied up as well. Right now mines extended about 8" but after the swap I'm just caning it. Theres also a guy in ohio that put a metal brace on his. He just welded it to the frame and it can be adjusted from there. I'd say that would be the best way. So that you can still have brakes when your rear is dropped down.

As for the ones I make. It would be about 10$ total but I won't have any for a while since I'm working on the front strut spacers for the next few weeks. I'd just go with tieing it up though.
 

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Originally posted by BigBadBob:
<STRONG>The pinion angle in the rear looks alright. I haven't measured it. We used the drop hangar so that I could get away without running a 15" shackle (I'm trying really hard to stay away from a block). It looks as though I still need something like a 12" shackle (currently at 6") and maybe a small block. The rear is about 5-6" lower than the front. The AllPro 5" long travels are BIG springs. I hope they sag sometime soon.</STRONG>
Looks like you're using Chevy springs- a ProComp add-a-leaf will give you a couple more inches and still flex well for about $50.

I'm using an add-a-leaf and 2" blocks on my 4runner to get the lift I want. The best way if you use a block is to build one (2.5" tube works well) and weld it to the axle. (mine's just a cast one though and no problems so far).
 

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BTW, what's your spring perch and axle width?



Looks like you might have trouble w/ tires rubbing the springs on turns when you get some bigger meats on there...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by ErikBeeb:
<STRONG>BTW, what's your spring perch and axle width?

Looks like you might have trouble w/ tires rubbing the springs on turns when you get some bigger meats on there...?</STRONG>
I hadn't thought of that. The width is something like 32". I don't remember exactly. It's the stock waggy setup. Steve (dude with SN #1 taco marlin crawler) and Yogiaz are running the same setup and I don't think they've had problems with that yet.
 

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Originally posted by BigBadBob:
<STRONG>It's the stock waggy setup. Steve (dude with SN #1 taco marlin crawler) and Yogiaz are running the same setup and I don't think they've had problems with that yet.</STRONG>
Uh... Correct me if I'm wrong... is that axle housing empty right now? I can't see a u-joint on the pass side there...

<IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You are 100% correct! Well, sorta, there are some rags in there. And then I have some brand new Duct-Tape Premium hubs and a sweet Duct-Tape pinion yoke!! hahaha. The deal is I have no front driveshaft yet, and I need to get it regeared. So I didn't feel like wasting time putting the R&P and axle shafts back in if I was just going to take them back out a week or two later.
 
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