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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I give up, I've searched, read hours of stuff, found several meassages with the exact same question I want but the only answers were "use the search:flipoff2: "

So does anyone actually have a GOOD picture of where to tap the box for hydro assist? After reading over 100 pages I've found one picture and that was in reference to a linked article...

I can't find any...and I know they are there somewhere:mad:

2nd easy question when did Jeep switch from flared fittings to O-ring fittings, my '79 box has the flared style...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!

Makes sense we'll pull the box down and see...looks fairly close to the input shaft in this picture?


Any tips on pulling the end cap out with the box sitting on the bench?
- I read the one where they drilled and put a sheet metal screw in the cap and then used a slide hammer to pop it out.
(yes retainer ring is out)

Maybe before it goes back it I'll have a giant Al nut welded on the end cap...would make it easy to turn...
 

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there should be a hole in the top of the box where that end plug is. put a punch in there and beat the end cap out.
 

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As for getting the cap out - there is a small hole at the top edge of the cast iron boss that the snap ring fits into - run a thin punch or nail down the hole and you should pop out one end of the snap ring - use a thin bladed flat head and work it around until it is all the way removed...

Now turn the pitman arm to the left with the box clamped in a vise, (use the casting bosses on the top or bottom edge) continue turning left until you reach the internal stop in the box - at this point the piston is maxed out against the end cap - turn even so slightly further left and the cap will pop loose... (no drilling nonsense :rolleyes: )

Warning!!! - Do not over-turn the sector shaft toward the left as the worm race will come far enough out of the piston letting all the recirc. balls drop from the piston...

If this does happen you will hear a tinkling sound (balls dropping into the outer case) and no longer be able to smoothly turn the box through its stroke - this means you have to tear everything apart and insert the balls in the proper track... another lesson for another time... :flipoff2:

Good luck

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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You will need to disassemble the box to tap it anyway. Once you have it disassembled you should be able to figure it out. It's not that difficult ;) Honestly
 

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Same as Brandon, I highly recomend West Texas.
I needed a different stroke ram and a shorter hose after I had installed it. They took care of it no problem, the parts were even sent back out the same day.

 

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Along these lines... is there anything wrong with tapping the round front cover and the top cap near the adjuster screw? I have seen some writeups/pics on here where that was done. I think by TPIJeep.

Anyone have experience/problems doing it that way?
 

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Were you using pipe thread when you cracked the caps? I was afraid of them crackind with the tapered threads, so I used a SAE straight thread o-ring fitting instead, worked out pretty well. I used the same fitting on the end cap, but had a friend TIG weld on an additional piece of Al on it (it was only ~.220" thick).

Pete
 

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Yes it was a tapered tap and I think that was the majority of the problem - although the top cap was just excessive pressure - I though about converting to SAE o-ring but the metal is still really thin there - the weld seemed like the strongest option...

Matt :D
 
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