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Discussion Starter #1
Ok Electrical and tauras fan gurus...

Any ideas why I keep blowing the 30a fuse on my setup? It goes from the battery to the 40a relay, with 30a fuse that keeps blowing, then to the hi wire on the fan...I think, Ive tried both wires and it seems to run the same speed? Maybe a little different, but not much which doesnt sound anything like others experiences with these fans. my fan has three wires, a black(which Im assuming is ground), brown with yellow stripe and brown with orange stripe right now its hooked up to the brown wire with yellow stripe) It moves a ton of air so I think its good but who knows...
On to the wiring,
Ive got just a cheap little switch to activate the relay and only have like 16ga wire there but everything else from the relay on, including my grounds are 10ga. Also, it seems to work fine (havent taken it on a run or anything, just flipping the fan on and off in the garage)with a 30a circuit breaker in place of the fuse, so is it just popping from overamping during fan startup? I thought since the fuse was before the relay that it wouldnt see the high amp spike. Oh, yeah when I first wired it it worked fine and then I ran the engine and shut the fan off then tried to turn it back on and it popped the fuse, now it wont turn on at all with the fuse, but it works fine with the circuit breaker(with motor running too)... :shaking: :confused: and I did already check for shorts, and even wired in a new switch right next to the relay so I knew there were no shorts and got the same result, so do you think Ive got a bad fan or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
DriveTime said:
Thanks for the link, but how would that help? My relay seems fine, its the fuse on the power wire feeding the relay that Im having trouble with... unless my relay isnt fine and is making the fuse blow??? I dunno. How do you tell if your relay is bad? it wouldnt work at all right?

I was under the understanding that this wire should be protected by the relay, no?

Right now Im just gonna run it with the cb in place of the fuse, unless someone tells me otherwise.
 

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My setup has one big heavy wire running off my master-disconnect, to a solenoid panel in the back, and off that wire, runs my rear winch, my electric fan, my fuel pump, my water pump... no fuse on the big wire at all, 'cause I could pull potentially almost 200 amps down it if everything starts up at the same time.
 

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I just wired mine the other night so I'm still pretty fresh on this one. The 40 amp relay you have should be fine for a while. I'm running the same.

What I did find on the wiring was interesting though. I assumed one wire was the ground, and tested that way with a jump box. First pair of wires, the fan ran good and fast. Ahh, I think this must be the high speed wire then. Now I test the other wire with what I thought was the ground wire, and the fan runs fast, but backward. What the heck? Well, the wire I figured was the ground was not the ground at all. A little more testing and I had my ground wire, and high a dn low wires all figured out. One interesting thing was that when I had the bad ground wire it instanly got the wires hot. (Lots of amps..)

As for the wiring with a fuse. That is fine, and good. I simply pull my power for the relay from a fuse link that is rated at 40 amps. A fuse link is basically a slow blow fuse for cars. Since my rig is import based I use the push in type of fuse link. Most american made stuff used to use "wire" based fuse links. Either is fine. Both will protect you from a wire fire, and both versions can be found at the local auto parts stores.

Trying to use a blade style fuse might be a problem with the peak amperage of these fans.

-Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hmm, maybe my wires are messed up... do you remember what was what? Ive got a black, a brown/yellow stripe and a brown/orange stripe.

Oh, and my relay is a 50a not 40... so Im assuming it should be ok.
 

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BrettM said:
use the 80amp relay and no fuse

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gotta have a fuse ed. a fuses sole purpose in life is to PROTECT THE WIRES.


BadAZYj said:
unless my relay isnt fine and is making the fuse blow??? I dunno. How do you tell if your relay is bad? it wouldnt work at all right?

I was under the understanding that this wire should be protected by the relay, no?

Right now Im just gonna run it with the cb in place of the fuse, unless someone tells me otherwise.

==========

there's the relay coil and the relay contacts. you check the relay contacts by putting a meter across the contacts (normally open contacts for the fan) while the fan is running. you should have no voltage drop across the contacts with it running. if you do, then you would have a decrease in voltage resulting in an increase in amperage. this occurs more commonly on old heavily used relays or over loaded relays that have excessive pitting on the contacts from the constant arcing (from making and breaking) over time resulting in poor contact.

the relay coil is what makes the contacts make/break. you can check continuity through the contacts while energizing/de-energizing the coil to confirm they're switching. if there is no switching with 12 volts to the coil, then the relay coil is bad.

i too have a taurus two speed fan. nice fan imo. sounds like you've got the wiring right. the striped wires are the high/low. here's a link to a write up i found. it's for installing both a single and a dual taurus fan onto an s10. complete with schematics and all. some good info. in the write up, they use a 50 amp fuse. which sounds about right. when any motor starts, the inrush current is what needs to be considered. there are also relays, fuses, and switches that are made specifically for motor starting applications meaning, they're designed for the huge inrush current that will be experienced. as well as being designed for dc or ac current applications too. a 50a relay should be just fine. gotta get a bigger fuse though. check the link. gotta sift through the write up for the applicable info. hope this helpful. electrical can be a real pain in the a$$ and soak up some time.


http://s-seriesforum.com/how-to-efan.html
 

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rustynuts said:
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gotta have a fuse ed. a fuses sole purpose in life is to PROTECT THE WIRES.

sorry, i should have made that much more clear, I meant for testing purposes, while he's figuring out what does what. safe enough for garage testing with a fire extinguisher near by.
 

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BrettM said:
sorry, i should have made that much more clear, I meant for testing purposes, while he's figuring out what does what. safe enough for garage testing with a fire extinguisher near by.

======


oh, hell ya!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ahhh, Im more confused than ever now :p After deciding to play with the wires to figure out what was what, I determined I can get low speed by running the + to the brown/yellow and the - to the brown/orange, and high by going + to the brown/yellow and - to the black... now this is really confusing to me. Why would changing the ground change the speed instead of changing the +? If I change the + it turns the wrong way... Oh, and if I tie the black and b/o wire together to the - I get an inbetween speed.

I hate wiring stuff... :shaking:
 

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Scott, allow me to simplify your headache:
You have three wires.
Two are fat.
One is thinner.

The two fat wires are high speed.
Wire them so that the fan runs the right way.
Tape/insulate off the end of the third so it can't short on anything.
Call it a day.

If you want low speed, once you get it wired up such that high speed works, disconnect the positive wire, and connect it to the thinner wire, and it should run the same direction as before, just slower (and pulling less amps).

I don't know what the color codes are, and there's all of about four inches for me to stick my head into, to try and look at how mine's wired, but the above formula is basically what I did, to figure out how I wanted it wired.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for tryin Scott... thats what i figured too, but its not so. Im gonna go fawk with it some more now...:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for helpin guys, i got it figgered out, somehow a wire got clipped (musta happened at the junkyard. anyway for future reference on fans with the same color wires I have, the brown/orange is hi, but the black(or dark green, whatever) color wire from the inside motor needs to connect to this wire, and the black wire coming from the outside where the b/o wire is coming out is the ground, the b/y wire is the lo speed. I feel like an idiot now:p

:beer: :beer: to those who helped:beer:
 

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I think this circuit will give me automatic control with the low speed coming on @ 180 deg, and the hi speed coming on @ 190 deg. The hi speed will drop out @ 180 deg, and the low will drop out @ 160 deg.

Does this look right ??

And what size relays/breakers/fuses would you recommend & why ?


Trying to get this wiring schematic down so I can install the fans.
 

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TheRamChargerMan said:
or would this be better ??

The first one will not work at all as the thermo switches need to fire off the relay, they can not handle the amperage of the fans. (Unless you are using some sort of high amp thermo switch.)

The second thing I'm not sure about is that both of your relays could be on at the same time, thus the low and high speeds, right? As I recall hearing, but have not tested, this makes a third speed out of the fan, and probably is not designed for. May not be much of an issue though since the low speed will probably cool most all of the time on a trail rig. (No towing, etc.)

You can use the 2 relays to control power to one another. Most all relays have a open and closed circuit. (I think they are 85A and 85B on the normal relays..?) I'd have to look at one to tell you for sure. I'd have to put some thought to this circuit to make sure, but I think you could do it this way...? Maybe not.

If you are running a fuel injected engine, then you may want a tad bit hotter thermo switch. Maybe kick on the low speed at around 190F. There are some nice dual range OEM thermal switches out there that are ideal. I'll be doing this to mine a bit later, and will be sure to document. should be cheap and easy.

-Wayne
 

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whoa.. hang on a second.

1) Use the temp prope switches to switch the ground on the relay. that way you aren't sending huge ammounts of power to them, and it simplifies wiring. you dont need 5 relays to do what you're trying to do.

2) use 1 relay to switch if it's on or off. and then another relay, basically after that relay to switch it to high or low.

that will make life 100x easier. i can't even follow that 2nd diagram you made!

i'll see if i can make a diagram for you.
 
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