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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Here is the full brake write up

So here is the deal with the brakes. When I added the disk brakes on the rear they got better, but I didn't have enough master cylinder. SO I researched what the Samurai guys have been doing an chose to upgrade to a Subaru Legacy Master. Stock was 3/4 bore the Subaru is 1 1/16. The brakes got better, but I found that I didn't have the braking force to hold the rig on some of the stoopid climbs and descents at comps. I had the traction, but the tires would just continue to roll. So I started to do some more research and found that I went too large with the master cylinder. The larger MC moves more fluid, but generates less pressure. Now there are two ways to fix that. One is to switch to a smaller MC or two is to increase the size of the wheel cylinders. I chose to go with the later and if it's still not good enough at that point, then mess with the MC again.

Now there are a bunch of options for upgrading Toyota solid axle brakes. One is to switch to FJ40 rotors and calipers. This is the most common upgrade that most people do. I decided to skip all the options in the middle and go for the biggest thing I can get on there.

List of parts to swap stock Toyota solid axle calipers and rotors to 04-06 Toyota Tundra calipers and rotors.

One set of 86-95 Toyota IFS bearing hubs.


One pair of 2004-2006 Toyota Tundra rotors. You can pick whatever style you want I chose to go with some drilled and slotted rotors because the price was right and the were available.


Here is a photo of the new rotors sitting on top of the old solid rotors.


One pair of 2004-2006 Toyota Tundra calipers. I chose to go with a set original Toyota 13WL calipers. These are the 231MM calipers. The earlier Tundra calipers were 199mm. either one will work, but a different spacer (shown later) will need to be used. Here is a photo showing the difference in size compared to the stock calipers.


One set of 2004-2006 brake pads. I went with some Hawk pads I have always liked.



One set of the Tacoma brake kit from FROF
With the Tundra rotors you need a 1/8" spacer along with the kit. It's not listed on the site, but you can call and order it with it. I chose just to make my own.
Front Range Off-Road Fabrication




Dis-assembly is fairly straight forward. Remove your hub or drive flange, remove the spindle nut and remove the old brake assembly.


Now it's time to start bolting the new stuff on. I re-used my wheel bearings in the IFS spindle. Remove the bolts holding onto the spindle. The outer seal will not be re-used. Bolt the caliper bracket where this seal was mounted. With the trail gear knuckles I had to cut one set of ears off the knuckles. With the stock knuckles you will need to switch them from left to right. In these photos I am mounting the caliper on the front just to make sure everything fit. after fit up, I switched my knuckles. The O.D. will need to be turned or ground down to around 6.7" dia to allow the rotor to slide on.




Next slip the rotor on and bolt the caliper onto the bracket. Makes sure to shim the caliper with the 1/8" shims if you didn't purchase the shim from FROF.
These photos were after I fit tested everything and swapped the knuckles so the calipers will be in the back. Just an FYI my tie rod is also on the back side.






Now this is a great brake upgrade. Another benefit of this upgrade is when you brake a birf or axle.
1)Remove the dust cap on the drive flange, or the outer locking knob on a regular hub
2)Remove the outer snap ring.
3)unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way.
4)remove the rotor. This just falls right off
5)unbolt the spindle studs
POW your in and changing parts.
 

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Nice set up :smokin:
Wish I woulda done some more research before I throw the FJ brakes on mine.
Are you still using the GM brakes in the rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Put a nice clean hood on it Saturday. Then found out that both of my propane tanks have been recalled, and I'm ass out. No refund or exchange. Fawk! :mad3:Needless to say I didn't do chit on it after that.

 

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Discussion Starter #45
Nice set up :smokin:
Wish I woulda done some more research before I throw the FJ brakes on mine.
Are you still using the GM brakes in the rear?
Sorry looks like I missed this. Yes I am still running the Trail Gear rear brake kit, although I have been wanting to upgrade them as well to the same Tundra brakes as the front. I have just been too lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Haven't updated this thread in a while. I took the rig up to the Rubicon for the Zukafari in July.



When I got back I bought a Set of PRP Podium seats and PRP 5.3 belts.


Then I also upgraded my original 1.3 with a used Lee Built Stage 2 1.3 that I got a good deal on.


Pulled the old one


And installed the new one.


I also replaced the slightly worn exhaust.


After all that I took the rig up to Fordyce for Sierra Trek. The rig ran like a champ all weekend.



 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
So I got the rig pinched bad on WH3 at Sierra Trek and heard some popping in the front. I wheeled the rest of the weekend with no problems. A few weeks ago I installed a TK1 sway bar in the rear and took the rig out testing at Hollister. The testing lasted about 5 min till the front end completely let go. So it was time to take it apart. Ont of the nice things about the Tundra brake swap I did a while back is now I get to see how easy it is to take apart.



First thing is to remove the tire and the 2 bolts hold the brake caliper on. Then hang it somewhere out of the way.


Slide off the brake rotor.


In my case remove the drive flange dust cap and snap ring. If your running hub is would be the outer dial and snap ring.


Remove the 8 spindle bolts and the entire bearing housing comes off. Then you can pull the birf and axle.




This is all I had to remove. No need to mess with the steering arm, or wiper seals.


The Trail Gear Dirty 30's looked good as new.


Ring gear not so good. This was a Superior Gear and Axle set. I have had good luck with these gears, but they are out of business now.


Ordered my new parts up through Luke @ Frontier 4x4. Parts were delivered the next day. I decided I was going to give the Trail Gear ring and pinions a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Cut a hole in the housing to make it easier to fill.



Plugged the hole with one of these.


Picked up my 3rd member from a friend of mine. Loaded with Trail Gear 5:29 gears that I picked up through Luke at Frontier 4x4.



Better shot of the slightly worn gear that was replaced.


Then managed to get the 3rd member installed and driveline hooked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
Bump'n this thread so people start to get the word. Most of this rig will be up for sale starting Nov 11th. I have one last trip of the year.

List of what I know for sure
Complete front axle see this thread for specs
Engine Lee Built Stage 2 1.3 w/got propane system tanks are available for pick up
Link to photos of the engine build
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.191851854158974.47772.177874568890036&type=3
Trans stock
T-case new heavy duty front output, Rock 4x twin sticks, Trail Tough rear drive live disconnect.
Possibly the chassis

PM me if your interested.


I'll throw some recent photos in for now. I broke the front output on the t-case my last trip out. So to get the t-case out I need to pull the seats and floor. While they are out I'm taking some time to move a few other things around. Mounting the stereo amp in the dash so it is our of the elements. If I get motivated enough I'm also going to build a sub box into the dash and have the sub downward firing. By moving the sub box it will allow me to move both the seats back a couple of inches to make for some more leg room.

New output shaft


Poor sub has gone through hell.


Doing some t-case work
 

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Discussion Starter #60
What brought the part out on? Are you gonna build a new rig?
Yep going to build something slightly faster. After attending a few Nor-Cal rock races, I have the bug to do it. I don't have the $$ to build a 4400 rig. Most likely something for the sportsman or Mod class.
 
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