Stock manifold. There is no way I could fit an after market header and the upper link.Which manifold/header are you running? Mine has a pacesetter long tube that is preventing a sweet spot for mounting a link on the inside. The Clayton 3 link that's on it works fine, but I'd like to lower the front and can't with the clayton kit.
I'm noticing that as well. My 3rd link is on the outside of the frame and would hit everything if I went any lower. And the header is in the way of trying to run a 4 link, or moving it inside the frame. Thanks for the quick help. Any reason you decided not to run it on the passenger side?Stock manifold. There is no way I could fit an after market header and the upper link.
Driveline:beer:I'm noticing that as well. My 3rd link is on the outside of the frame and would hit everything if I went any lower. And the header is in the way of trying to run a 4 link, or moving it inside the frame. Thanks for the quick help. Any reason you decided not to run it on the passenger side?
Sorry, took me a couple of weeks to download one of the vids. Here you can hear the exhaust.Thank you, a new video would be nice.
I don't know how anyone can make this case last behind anything other than a 1.3. I have broke 7 or 8 back half of the cases, 2 of the front of the cases, 4 front output shafts. That being said I get it in all kinds of situations. Most of those breaks were with the original high mile engine. I think if your easy on things it could work with more power, but not for me. There have been 2 things with this rig that have frustrated me one of them is breaking the t-case, and the other is the front r&p.Nice buggy :smokin:
I see you are running the sami T-Case. How is it going, strenghwise ?
I'm planning a build and can make myself to the idea of running this tiny case with tons and 40"...
People keep saying me no problem, but, you know...
I absolutely hate breakage.
Are you still running the Samurai engine? I'm not sure what kind of wheeling you do, but for crawling a Dana 300 with the 4:1 is not going to do it. I considered a 5:1 Atlas at one point.It would be nice for a little more wheel speed, but not low enough for real technical stuff. Plus it does not have any reduction in high range. A 4speed Atlas would work great, but they don't offer it in a divorced option like the standard 2 speed. I'm sure someone could make a adapter though. Here is a good calculator for playing with all the numbers. It allows you to change everything and see what it will look like. From my experience I think 100:1-130:1 is a good range for the stock engine.Toy axles were a no no to me as the R&P are so small...
So, no sami T-Case either... I'm leaning towards a Dana300 and a LoMax gearset but I'm affraid that even with 5,43 in the axles it won't be low enough... And Toy cases are rare were I live...
All I have to buy now is a 5.0 atlas, right ? Damn ! :grinpimp:
Wow I like that calculator:beer:I have a 1.6 16v with its 4sp auto from a sidekick.
I saw this great write-up about fitting a mitsubishi gearbox (I can find that easiliy) to the 1.6 using the suzuki bell housing :
4sp OD MOD Replacement - Zukikrawlers
It allows to run a dana 300 (or atlas) directly. No divorced T-Case, I like that.
I ride mostly in woods, it can be dry in summer, but it's mostly freakin' wet/slipery all the time, so wheelspeed does matter. It's quite like the southern style riding in the US.
I also looked at a sidekick T-Case to dana 300 doubler (1.98 x 2.62 or 4.0) , but I don't know where I can find a such thing. It seems to me that the only people who have this setup did it themselves. I don't have the tools or know-how to make it.
Here is a gear calculator I like, it's really complete : Gear Ratio Calculator