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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The rebuilt 22R in my Runner (about 7000 miles on it)with 251,000 miles gave me a scare coming home from work last week. The whole truck drive train "popped" once from the slack in it and I thought that my new rear third member and locker had done something wrong. The next morning my truck would crank to no end, but not start.

Soooooo I figured it's the coil, igniter, or both. So I'm testing them now with my multimeter and I don't understand a few things. Here's what I have got so far:

Plugs,wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and fuel pump are all fairly new.
I've got fuel going into the carb and the choke plate is setting.
I hooked up a spark checker gapped to .89mm and put each plug wire on it and cranked.............got nothing.
I tested the Primary Coil Resistance by setting my multimeter to 200 ohms, ignition off, unplugged the coil wire connector and high tension lead, and put the positive meter wire on the brown wire side of the coil terminal and the black wire on the yellow wire side of the coil terminal.

The FSM says that I should see a reading of .04 - .05 ohms cold. My 2 year old Harbour Freight multimeter tool reads 4.2 in the sun, and 1.1 in the shade. Huh?

When I switch the multimeter range to 2000 ohms, it reads 005. I don't know what that means.

I then checked the Secondary Coil Resistance by leaving the positive multimeter lead where it was and put the negative wire into the high tension terminal of the coil. I set the multimeter ohm range to 200 and BEFORE hooking up the leads the LCD shows a "l" on the far left and a "." on the right. That's what it also reads when I hook up the leads.

When I switch the range to 2000 ohms, the "." dissappears and thats the reading that I get with the leads hooked up or not.

I then tested the Insulation Resistance and got the same reading as the last check above.

I don't quite understand the ohms settings and ranges on my multimeter and I can't find much online either. I feel stupid. I'm pretty sure my coil is gone, but I want to confirm it, and confirm whether or not my igniter is fried too. I don't like just buying stuff and switching it out to see if that fixes it. I am using this opportunity to hone in my diagnostic skills.:D What do you think my next move should be??
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Uh......hello? Guys? I could really use some help here. I need to get my yota on the roada again. I absolutely hate driving my wifes Saturn wagon around.:p
 

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What do you think my next move should be??
I'd start with a new or different multimeter. The readings shouldn't change if the meter is in the sun or shade and switching the dial should just move the decimal place in the readings. Beg, borrow or steal a working meter and repeat your tests.

Oh, run your meter through it's range too. If you're trying to measure resistance that's supposed to be 20K ohms on the 200 ohm scale it's not going to give you an accurate reading either...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, after some thinking about molsenmuscle's advice, I realized that he was right. My crappy Harbour freight multimeter just wasn't cutting it for this job. After some research I decided that I would like to find a nice used Fluke for around $50.........which I promply did on Craigslist.

But I can't afford yet another tool AND the part that I would need if that was it.

So I figured and hoped that because of the way the truck acted the day before, the fact that I had fuel and no spark at all, that it was in fact just the coil/igniter. I figured if I was wrong, then at least I would have my spare coil/igniter part to carry around.

I called a guy that has been posting on Craigslist everyday with Toyota parts in Santa Clara and he said that he had one left for now, and it was gonna cost me $140. I made the 5 hour round trip down there, came home and changed out the part in 5 minutes, pushed the gas twice to the floor and hit the key. It started the second that the starter started starting. (how's that for a screwy sentence)

It's fixed and going strong again. Now to find that "spare"........
 

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Good to hear you lucked out and replaced the right part. Now get yourself a good meter and learn to use it. Don't wait till something breaks again, it's a really helpful tool when you can use it properly.
 

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toyota specifies r&r. I know no proceedure that can test control module besides what you have done.
The only way to test it is to use an oscilliscope, which is beyond the scope of most fawkers.

It's generally easier to buy a spare and "test" it that way.

The 22R ignitor assembly can be adapted to easily available GM parts.. Search if you're interested in trying it.
 

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Well, after some thinking about molsenmuscle's advice, I realized that he was right. My crappy Harbour freight multimeter just wasn't cutting it for this job. After some research I decided that I would like to find a nice used Fluke for around $50.........which I promply did on Craigslist.

But I can't afford yet another tool AND the part that I would need if that was it.

So I figured and hoped that because of the way the truck acted the day before, the fact that I had fuel and no spark at all, that it was in fact just the coil/igniter. I figured if I was wrong, then at least I would have my spare coil/igniter part to carry around.

I called a guy that has been posting on Craigslist everyday with Toyota parts in Santa Clara and he said that he had one left for now, and it was gonna cost me $140. I made the 5 hour round trip down there, came home and changed out the part in 5 minutes, pushed the gas twice to the floor and hit the key. It started the second that the starter started starting. (how's that for a screwy sentence)

It's fixed and going strong again. Now to find that "spare"........
All of that and you could have fixed the problem with a trip to the part store and like under $40
 
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