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Discussion Starter #1
So Ive seen the Q asked several times, will the two work together? Well My findings are not concluded but I will tell you what I know.
The disconnect is large enough the crossmember will not fit over it without modification.
The thickness of the stock tail housing and the Disconnect, at the bolt holes are the same.
The space between the flanges on the disconnect is 1.025".
The thickness of the things that will be using that space are :
Crossmember plate Mine is 3/8 .375
Nut .370
Washer, or not TG kit came with none .100
Now to the bolts. The bolts I run are longer than stock to accommodate the plate crossmember, and appear to be the same length as the TG ones in the kit. The kit uses 4 studs in the top holes, because of interference with the new output bolt flange. So it looks like you may have to install the crossmember at the same time as the new rear cover, because with the studs installed, space might be to tight to install the cover, tighten, then install crossmember.
Here are some Pics. Any Qs, measurements, Pic requests, SHOOT.
The tape represents where I will have to cut the top off the crossmember to make this all work.
I would just put it in so you all know the outcome, but my floorboards are going to take some reworking, due to the duals and raised powertrain.






TG stud and longer than stock bolt for crossmember plate. The end of the bolt is discolored where it threads in, Its been in use a couple years.
 

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the FROR cross members are already under suspicion by many to cause case failure...me being one who has one...now you have chopped the suspect crossmember down and weakened it. im sure TG planned on this unit being used with their style crossmember...any thoughts on this
 

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I was thinking about making this style crossmember work with my FROR disco until I noticed my housing is cracked, and 5 threads are toast so I went back to factory mount locations and ditched the FROR style xmember just to lose a future headache.. I couldnt trust 5 bolts when 7 wasnt cuttin it :homer:
 

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Run dual bomb proof factory style mounts and the FROR crossmember mounts, that's the only way I could keep my junk working :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ive been running FROR style for a few years now with no problems, no transfer case leaks. I do have a brace between the trans and adapter.
I was originally concerned about the twisting of the frame doing damage, so I think having an exo and bed, all tied into the frame helps prevent any twisting forces exerted on the powertrain. If I do see any signs of problems I will go to a conventional style crossmember.
But I understand your concerns.
And Ive been doing stuff like this for a few years now.
 

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for the guys who have cracked cases, are u running stock motor mounts?? because i can see if u have stiffer mounts on the case and softer on the motor it will create the 'best case' scenario for cracking a case.

just a thought
 

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the FROR cross members are already under suspicion by many to cause case failure...me being one who has one...now you have chopped the suspect crossmember down and weakened it. im sure TG planned on this unit being used with their style crossmember...any thoughts on this
I had been saying this for quite sometime.. which is why I went with the Sky skid.. it's a true skid with the option of going flat belly much easier.

Either way, I'm with the others that 5 bolts isn't enough for this situation.
 

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the FROR cross members are already under suspicion by many to cause case failure...me being one who has one...now you have chopped the suspect crossmember down and weakened it. im sure TG planned on this unit being used with their style crossmember...any thoughts on this
X3 I wouldn't even think of running that mount cut like that. By only bolting to the lower mount bolts it is going to increase the amount of leverage that the weaker part of the case already sees. I've see a few with that cross member and harder/solid mounts get there cases cracked also not just the ones running stock engine mounts.
 
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