Pirate 4x4 banner

41 - 60 of 959 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,120 Posts
Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
I'm not real worried about the 8.8 gearset, given the horsepower & tire size I'm running. Mustang guys beat the shit outta these rears.

Shafts are 31 spline and some kinda upgraded material, with basically 9" outers, so I don't see a problem there either (except for maybe bending wheel flanges, which I mentioned, which a 9" wouldn't help unless I do a full float conversion, and then..........).

A fabricated 9" housing will be a no-brainer swap into this build if I ever need to. More than ample room above the housing to the fuel cell. For now I'll see what happens with the 8.8...

(and yes, I broke 3 9" axles in 3 different ways under a Bronco on 35's with a 302, so I'm trying something else. :laughing: )
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,105 Posts
Props for thinking WAY outside the box! :smokin:
X2!! I miss the old days when everyone was doing weird parts combos and seeing it come to life. This build is great:grinpimp:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
373 Posts
count me in this thing is sweet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
It's about damn time this thread popped up. The teaser pics you've been throwing around were killing me.

I love the thought process and ingenuity going into this.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,576 Posts
Cool engine choice. I've always wanted to see a rig with a SHO engine. I worked at a Ford service dept. for several years. That engine was legendary among techs both for its performance / reliability but also for how difficult it was to work on within the confines of the tight engine compartment. A lot of people don't know that that engine was developed by Yamaha. My service manager told me a story once about some testing where they ran it at 12,000 rpm for like 7 days straight or something like that with no ill effects. I don't recall the details or where he heard it from, but if nothing else it shows the techs' reverence for the engine.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_SHO_V6_engine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Very interesting build, it's always nice to see something new and different! Can't wait to see it finished and tuned.
 

·
nice roach.
Joined
·
5,739 Posts
Bout time this build showed up!! Glad to see you have started getting the parts together man. Looks awesome! :beer:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,761 Posts
... but built to Mod class specs for our local series at Rausch Creek, Line Mountain, and others depending on how competitive it ends up being.
For your local series, what are the high level Mod Class rules that govern the frame, body, motor, and suspension? In the end, would this be able to run the KOH Mod Class?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,092 Posts
I LOVE the ingenuity in this build! Definitely taking notes. Keep up the awesome work!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,324 Posts
I have a Dana 35 ARB in a parts truck of mine but it's for the smaller spline count...do you know if I can just get 30-spline side gears for it or does it change the whole carrier too?

I was kind of wanting to go with an OX or E-locker in the back and stay away from the compressor & plumbing of an ARB...although I guess I could do a 30-spline E-locker in the front as well.
i dont know nothing about ARBs. i just call Tech Tim with my dumb questions. 360-264-5363
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,120 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Love it. Glad to see you are using the D35 TTB and appreciate the attributes of it over a 44
You are the first, and probably the only, person to tell me that. :laughing:

For your local series, what are the high level Mod Class rules that govern the frame, body, motor, and suspension? In the end, would this be able to run the KOH Mod Class?
The rules for our local series are identical to the Ultra4 mod class rules except they permit full hydro steering...but I'm building around a steering box anyway. So yes, it should fit in the Ultra4 Mod Class as well. :) I think the local ones probably aren't as stringent on the safety requirements but I'll doing all that as per the Ultra4 rulebook too just as good practice.

Just got the welder bottle filled so I should be back at it shortly...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,531 Posts
You are the first, and probably the only, person to tell me that. :laughing:
Its hard to get people to look further than "44 is a bigger number than 35 so it has to be better". Sure the 44 r&p is stronger, but that's not the fuse in the system. You've covered the reasons I will never put a d44 ttb in my ranger.

If you haven't figured this out yet, here's a way to put D44 hubs on D35 knuckles http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/1094621-ttb-tech-d44-hubs-d35.html
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,120 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
If you haven't figured this out yet, here's a way to put D44 hubs on D35 knuckles http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/1094621-ttb-tech-d44-hubs-d35.html
That's pretty cool.

Two questions...how do the ball joints hold up, and does that net you the same track width increase as putting TTB 44 knuckles on? I've got 1.25" wheel spacers on the front right now as an 'approximate' way to simulate having extended beams and/or a wider track width from the larger hubs.

Ball joints though are my biggest concern as I don't want to cringe every time I smack a rock or hit a whoop out of rhythm. I could deal with doing a set or two per season if they're stout enough to hold up to some hits. Again, 35's on a rather lightweight truck with probably less weight bias over the front too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,788 Posts
I took out a set of D35 ball joints with a hard hit on my old exploder. Of course they were the stock ball joints w/ +220K miles on them at the time. Replaced them with NAPA's premium joints and never had another issue even with a hit hard enough to bend one of the stock aluminum wheels.
 
41 - 60 of 959 Posts
Top