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Discussion Starter #1
The bad news:

Last Monday night the engine in my daily driver 4Runner died. Puled the valve cover off this Sunday - Tchain jumped ship and there is guide material scattered liberally around (Tim @ DOA - I eat my words about cheap Tchains now :p)

The truck had also been using 4+ qts. of oil a month, so I am taking this time to do some head work and hopefully see if that fixes my problem.

The good news:

A junked 22RE (spun crank bearing) I bought off a buddy over a year ago was destined to come to my rescue. I knew he had done some work to it only to have the bearing spin about a week after it was in the truck, but here is what I scored off that engine:
-LCE adjustable timing gear (perty anodized red alum. :D )
-METAL BACKED GUIDES and a new timing chain setup
-New oil pump
-New water pump
-Rebuilt head w/ new valves
-I *think* he told me it has a mid-range cam in it (fingers crossed)
-Head has some runner work and a gasket match on the intake side

Needless to say, I was happy to find all of this, and it is saving me a BUNCH of money! :D


So on to my questions for those who know about 22RE's...

The engine is a 1990 22RE with roughly 170k on it. LCE header installed, exhaust, stock everything else.

Is it going to be a problem putting these parts and a fresh head on the used block? Last time I checked I had good compression, and it ran great up until the Tchain decided to take a detour.

The used metal backed guides look good and I plan to re-use them, but does anyone see a problem installing a used timing chain - even when the timing chain was run less than 250 miles?

To be sure - I am having the head checked at a shop - no sense taking a risk just slapping it on.

I guess while I have it apart, I will gasket match the intake to the head and smooth down any rough edges I can see in there...(how hard can it be?)

Can anyone think of anything else I need to replace, check, look for when I tear the old head off my engine this coming weekend?

I am *hoping* there is nothing wrong with the bottom end... is there anything I should look for?

Any tips on *tweaking* the LCE adjustable timing gear?



I am sure I will think of more 22RE questions before the week is over... And I am hoping to get a decent running hopped up 22RE out of this when I am done :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Told you I would think of more :p


I will be taking the head to the local REAL auto parts store to be pressure tested and checked out. Can they also check the cam to see if it is still god, and tell me what the specs on it is (As in whether it is a stock cam or something else?)

I would like to know about the cam, because if it is stock I want to order a D.O.A. cam to go in there :)
 

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why was it using so much oil? are you thinkin it was the valve guides in the head? i have little or no oil ring in number 4 cylinder. if i lean the truck over it takes all of 5-10 minutes before that chamber is hydrolocked and i have to pull the plug to start it---very frustrating on the trail. unfortunately im knee deep in the 1/4 eliptic and cant address the motor before the 4runner jambo...

just acking cuase i used about 2 quarts of oil a month before this went to strictly trial duty....i thought that if it was the valve guides it would only puff blue coming off throttle when theres a vacuum created?? hope i didnt hyjack a thread:D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Booger Weldz said:
why was it using so much oil? are you thinkin it was the valve guides in the head? i have little or no oil ring in number 4 cylinder. if i lean the truck over it takes all of 5-10 minutes before that chamber is hydrolocked and i have to pull the plug to start it---very frustrating on the trail. unfortunately im knee deep in the 1/4 eliptic and cant address the motor before the 4runner jambo...

just acking cuase i used about 2 quarts of oil a month before this went to strictly trial duty....i thought that if it was the valve guides it would only puff blue coming off throttle when theres a vacuum created?? hope i didnt hyjack a thread:D

No apology needed for the question - I think it fits the overall 22RE performance/tech aspect of the thread just fine (and hopefully this thread can turn out to be a good resource for those searching later :) )

But anyway...

Yes, I *believe* it to be a vavle leak problem. You have to understand, my 4Runner is driven 80+ miles per day, 5 days a week, year round, 95% of the time at interstate speeds 70 mph or MORE ;)

Puffs of smoke on aceleration, and hard shifts. When starting the truck in the morning to let her warm up, there is a spot of black oily residue where the exhaust points at the ground.

Now I am no engine guru - so if this sounds like the oil burn is NOT a head problem, then:
1. I am not happy :(
2. I official hate you for shattering my illusions of a speedy repair :p

Anyone have any other comments on the oil usage? That was the second aspect of this repair after all.. and I do want to address it too while I have things apart if I can...
 

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If I were going to do that much work anyway, I would go ahead and tear the engine out, pull some bearings and take a look. My 300k mi. 22r had the bearings worn to the copper but when I checked the crank,rods and main bearing bores everything was round and in spec. Toy engine parts are unreal. I wouldn't pull the pistons out of the bore unless I was planning on re-ringing it to minimize the chance of damaging the rings. I would then clean it up, throw on some paint, new gaskets and seals, and a fresh oil pump for cheap insurance.
 

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The point will be moot after you go through all this to patch up a tired engine & the bottom end gives it up :p
 

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Discussion Starter #7
0ILBURNER said:
The point will be moot after you go through all this to patch up a tired engine & the bottom end gives it up :p
What did I tell you people about shattering my illusions? :crybaby2:


I really don't feel like pulling the block out right now. Call it lazy - yeah... I am lazy :p


Shoot - if the bottom end hold up till Summer I am fine... I will actually have some time to do it right then.... just no time now :(
 

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By the time you get the head and timing cover off, you are less than a half an hour from pulling the whole thing. You will need to pull the pan to make sure all of those little chunks of timing chain guide don't plug your oil pickup. Now is the best time to give the bottom end a good looking over don't you think?
 

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I agree with most here,if your going to do all this work,pull the pan and pull the pistons. Check the pistons and rings and bearing clearances. Geez don't go through all that work in the top end and use that old bottom end with 170k on it.
And i think you are burning oil from the rings,oil control rings arent used for compression,they just try and control oil to the compression rings .And i would not be suprised to see a scored piston or 2 from overheating.
But mainly i just beleive you got 9/10 of the hard work done already at this point take the bottom end apart and check it out. There are guys that do great work of boring in the truck if needed,or unbolt it and get it done.
And the old timing chain from the other engine will be fine,250 miles is nothing i would not think twice about that if it were mine.
Great parts nab on your part there DRM :D

Your doing the right steps to this point,just insure your work by at least checking the bottom end. You know the saying " If you don't find time to do it right this time ,when are you going to have time to do it the second time?'

Looks like your headed the right way
:D

Good luck
Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I hate you all :p
 

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Lmao ....ya sucks when we verify your inner most thoguths huh...lol

You can handle it, and you'll be soooooo.. happy you double checked it in the end.:D

Good luck ...email me if you need any help..;)
 

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Have you done a leak down test on it? If not I would recommend it. Compression test reads only with the pistons at TDC. Leak down will let you know if any marring has been done throughout the cylinder wall...

All the parts you have will bolt up. The head shop will tell you if the cam is good or not. Should be part of their test. Are you have the head completely rebuilt? The most common parts to go on the 22r-e heads is the valve guides and valve seats. I spent about $400 twice (don't ask) to have the head on my truck completely rebuilt.
 

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Cylinder leak down will check compression rings but not oil control rings,if they are sludged up or collapsed from over heating oil can slip by and the upper rings won't be able to hande it. Pistons in the early 22r were short skirt Brittany Spears models :eek: that caused cylinders to go egg shaped like the pistons.
Knocked cold rattled hot ,burned oil had great compression,skirts came out on some with scores on them.They changed later in 85 i beleive ...ummm damn memory like safe,just cant find the key...lol. At this point your taking the head off pull the pistons and mic em...:D

Head was new on the other engine correct? or LCE ? With 250 miles right?
Unless it ran out oil or with out some during startup it should be fine. have them check the guides and seats when it'sa there like HighToy said .
 

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what he is not telling you is that this is the same motor that we pulled out of his blue truck less than a year ago to replace the original motor. so the clutch is fine ;)
 

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"The point will be moot after you go through all this to patch up a tired engine & the bottom end gives it up!"

Bursting yer bubble again...but why do the same job twice? Sounds like rings and probably needs bored to control the oil burn...I don't feel so bad now about mine burning oil now. HEhehe, 4+ qts a month??? Zoiks!


BTW, why not just fix the already 'rebuilt' motor? Find out why the bearing spun and then check everything else.
 

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My Daddy Always Said...

Don't half ass it, son!

Do it right the first time! A newb with 10 posts shouldn't have to tell a guy with like 20 Gazillion post that!
Damn!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 

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I did exactly what your *wanting* to do a few years ago on a 22re that burned about the same amount of oil. Did the head right with new seals, etc, etc,...........but left the block alone except for cleaning out the pan. Slapped it all together and it ran great, but it still burned just as much oil. It's a PITA, but better to do it right once than................
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks guys...


Sorry to veto - but I have NO time to pull the block right now. If it doesn't fix the oil burn, I guess I will just deal with it until I graduate this summer and actually have some TIME to work on it.
 

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NEWS BULLETIN!!!!
Hey You will wonder where all that time you are going to have went when you graduate and get into the real world. I had all the time in the world to work on my truck in college. Put me back in baby!!!! I will study I promise!!


So work hard, wrench all you need, and play hard.......because the real world is coming......:flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 
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