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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I think I posted up these axles in a dana 70 truss thread somewhere. Since I've gotten enough questions about them and the fact that the chassis was started recently, I thought it a good time to start a build thread and maybe get some feedback.

The axles are both Dana 70s narrowed to ~ 60" WMS. The rear is a 70B and the front is a U, iirc.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The front axle.

*Deadenbear dana 60 end forgings
*Fabricated outer steering knuckles w/ bearings
*1.5" 35 spline Alloy USA shafts w/ CTM joints, Spicer 6.17 gears and a spool *The brakes are single pistons from a '79 3/4 ton chevy.
*Fabricated diff cover made from 3/8" and 1/4" plate.
*1.5" off the bottom of the housing (hangs down about 1" lower than a 44)

Since this axle will run in reverse rotation most of the time, two 1/2" oiling ports were drilled and the fill plug is high in the cover to hold more oil because of this also.

Machined tube inserts were made to hold the inner axle seals next to the carrier bearings. These inserts press fit into the tubes and then the seals press into the inserts. After pressing the inserts into the tube, they were TIG 'd in.

Here's some general pics of the front end in thumbnail form:

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The knuckles.

The side plates are made of 3/8" plate and are bent to shape on a brake. Spindle mounting surface is 1/2" plate and machined on a lathe.

Top and bottom kingpin plates are made from 1.5" x 4" x 3" - 1/2" plate and 1"x4"x3" - 3/8" plate, made on the bridgeport.

Uses a timken bearing instead of the nylon bushing in std KP 60s.

The upper kingpin/bearing stud that threads into the C's are made of 300m

The hi-steer arms are keyed into the knuckle and now have ARP studs.

First he built a jig based on the knuckles from my 60 to keep everything square.

The axles were built by a buddy of mine (shortbus) who taught me pretty much everything I know about fab and machinework. I was at school when he built the knuckles but I believe he was inspired to go that route by welderboy's knuckles.
 

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So I want a set of those knuckles. Is he gonna making anymore?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Both axles all done w/ steering and link mounts installed on both.

PSC complete full hydro kit shown w/ DE ram mounted.

That truss on the front axle is SOLID (literally).

Sorry about the crappy camera phone pics. I rarely have a camera with me when i'm in the shop working on my buggy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The drivetrain.

Vortec 350
*Stock so far

TH 350 tranny with some goodies that he added (he's crazy good with auto's)
I'll get some more specs when I'm in the shop tomorrow but what I do know is it's got a RMVB w/ compression braking in ALL gears.
The converter is probably something crazy b/c that's what his current employer (coan racing)specializes in.

2 spd atlas 4.3 (ordering soon)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The chassis.

All of the tubing is 1.75" OD .120 wall HREW

Drew up the chassis in cad early last week using emachineshop's free cad program and we changed it around a bit until it looked how we wanted.

Then he started bending and fitting it up. I'd go back and forth between working on my buggy and occasionally walking over to help or discuss something. Seems like everytime I looked up from my buggy his looked way different.

Here's another crappy cell phone pic or two.
 

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Awsome axles! :smokin: Just one question, is that rear axle still strait? After all that welding, how did you brace it so that it will not warp too much? It doesn't look like you welded an inch at a time like everyone has told me todo.

I have heard people welding braces to the bottom of the axles. I have heard heating the bottom side after your done to shrink that side so that it is strait. Have you put an alignment jig on this axle?

Thanks! I am trying to figure out this before I try and build myself one.
 

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What I did on the rear axle is,,, Use a bottle jack and chain on the bottom side of the pig and tweak it down as I weld. I sight down the axle tubes after every weld and tweak as I go. This kept the axle pretty straight. After all the welding was done I put our alignment bar and pucks in it. It was very close but needed pulled down just a bit. Both shafts go right in. Not sure if thats how it is "supposed" to be done but it works for me.
 
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