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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The time has come to build something new. The previous version was built up in the usual Toyota way; 4.3L/th350/4.7s/yota axles/37s. After 4 years and a few axle shafts later my right foot won the battle and I swapped in tons, then 44s, then LS power, then links, then Atlas, then 43s. Now that I have all of this I find myself doing stupider and stupider stuff. I have a cage but i dont feel safe enough. That brings us to what I have planned with version 2.0.

Full new chassis w/ tube everywhere, ie., interior cage, bed cage, engine cage, subframe, etc. I am using another '82 first gen cab and bed because first gens are the best. My plan is to make the cab easy to remove for when its raisin'd to shit.

Specs will be as follows. Im using all the parts from the last build with the exception of a few surprises down the road.

Specs:
1982 Toyota 2wd cab/bed/fenders/etc (keeping windshield for sure)
2x3x.188 tube frame with 2x2x.188 subframe lower
Cage work will all be 1.75x.120 DOM

Drivetrain:
Engine: '05 LQ4 w/ TBSS intake, 42lb marine injectors, 92mm Nick Williams TB, headers, PSC p-pump, Team208Motorsports tuned to 425hp/425/tq
Transmission: Stock 4l60e with a fat cooler
Transfer Case: Atlas 2-Spd 4.3

Axles:
Front: Chevy D60 w/ Reid knuckles and bronze bushings, 5.13s, welded, flanges, RCV shafts, PSC DE 2.75"x8 ram
Rear: Chevy Van 14B, 5.13s, Spool

Suspension: 4-link front and rear w/ 16" coilovers and bumps, 2.25"x.3875" DOM lower links, 1.25" RuffStuff heims everywhere

Wheels/Tires: 17" Racelines and 43" SX stickies

Interior: Winters shifter, PRP daily driver seats, 12Voltguy panel, Tablet gauges, some decent tunes

Im sure some of you have been following along with my other thread, but of not, here is what I am robbing all the parts off of.

Its going to be tough to cut it up but its had a good run.
The old rig:


Now onto the new. This is my first shot at a full custom frame and chassis. After doing some reading and checking out some of the awesome here and in Gen4x4, i figured i'd give it a shot. I plan on giving my dimensions for everything.

The start of the main frame rails. The front rise is 4" more than what I had. I hope this will give me more up travel. Shooting for 6-7" up, 9-10" down. Previous was about 3-4" due to engine being in the way.


Some crossmembers (the rear two are temporary). My frame rails are 28" wide to accommodate for when the Atlas is clocked near flat.



Flipped it over for the start of the subframe. Im shooting for a 117-120" wheelbase and low as possible without dragging belly everywhere. The subframe is 9" from the bottom of the frame rails to the top of the lower 2x2 square tube. I used some .188 tube i had laying around as well.

First location was too far back. I have since moved the body up and down and moved it up about 10". Plan is to use my existing links, as they were pretty pricey.



Donor '82 that I picked up for $400. Keeping sheet metal only and selling/scrapping the rest. Pretty clean except for some rot in the cab floors.


Well that took care of the rust. Cut out the floor and most of the firewall.


to be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Continued. (Stupid 10 pic limit)

Leveled as close as possible (this isnt a race car...yet :evil::


First try at setting it on the frame. Set another 60 I have up front that I plan on rebuilding and swapping all the other goodies I have, since i plan on switching over to a 4-link. Using an artec truss and ram mount to match the rear.


Here I moved the cab forward, which made me move the subframe forward as well.


Subframe and axle moved up. Its past full bump. Will have to move down some once I get the truss on there. Started on my lower link placement as well.


Putting the fender on shows how low it will be at bump. I will be doing an aggressive dove front and rear. Still keeping the fenders, bedsides, tailgate, hood, grille, etc. Want it to look similar to the old, but much more streamlined.


A few design thoughts I am having:
-Engine will be set back in the cab and down low to clear everything.
-I may chop off some of the lower subframe since I have 3" of frame rail to play with. Goal is to have a flat floor with small trans hump.
-Shooting for as much headroom as possible with the interior cage.
-Possibly a rear radiator like previous, but may try and squeeze something up front.
-Upgrading to a LII tank setup and internal plumbing to have the feed draw from the bottom of the tank.
-Profit?

I hope to have this thing back on the trail by the Katemcy Rocks K2 opening weekend in February, with it moving on its own in December for the annual WFW / Toys for Tots drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I open to any and all comments. Ill be working on it little by little each night and on the weekends.

EDIT: I started this thread in the Toyota section because its the best. Plus its still kinda a toyota haha.
 

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Subd.


Question. How do you plan to make the cab easy to remove? Like at home in the shop or once you're out at a park and realize shit is going to get hairy...? Seems pointless to me. Just run it and beat it like it owes you money.
 

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fuck yeah it is still a toyota :smokin:

glad you started a new thread, going to be following closely to steal all your good ideas :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Subd.


Question. How do you plan to make the cab easy to remove? Like at home in the shop or once you're out at a park and realize shit is going to get hairy...? Seems pointless to me. Just run it and beat it like it owes you money.
Haha. Not on the trail. Removable at home after its been rolled a time or two (or three). Not quite sure how im going to do it yet. May steal an idea or two from Procircuit and his Jumby build in Gen4x4. I just want to be able to replace the outer shell with another cab once he time comes. Im envisioning that the firewall, floor, rear firewall will all stay put, just the shell will be replaced. Thats my plan anyways. I will probably just end up welding it on. :laughing::laughing:
 

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Haha. Not on the trail. Removable at home after its been rolled a time or two (or three). Not quite sure how im going to do it yet. May steal an idea or two from Procircuit and his Jumby build in Gen4x4. I just want to be able to replace the outer shell with another cab once he time comes. Im envisioning that the firewall, floor, rear firewall will all stay put, just the shell will be replaced. Thats my plan anyways. I will probably just end up welding it on. :laughing::laughing:
figure out a really nice clean way to tie the windshield frame into the a-pillars so that you can just replace the glass and not destroy the frame when you roll it over.

I don't know if tying it in the way the race cars do with some sheet metal and dimples would be best or just mounting the cage tube directly behind/in the sheet metal would work better.

Take lots of pictures :flipoff2: i've seen some halfway decent ones before but can't remember where or when :confused:
 

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I would set your drivetrain in there before burning in any of that, it looks really deep. You're way further ahead than I thought you were, I'm gonna have to play catch up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would set your drivetrain in there before burning in any of that, it looks really deep. You're way further ahead than I thought you were, I'm gonna have to play catch up.
Subframe isn't tacked in at the moment. The depth is on average with most buggies that I looked. Some say more depth actually. As you can tell I don't know what I'm doing. If anything the front rise is probably too much. I'm tacking things together as I go.

Anyone else have any thoughts on subframe depth. I want a flat floor and have the atlas under it.
 

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any reason why you went with square tube for the frame rails? Def can be a more familiar medium to work in...and will def hold up to what you are after, just wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
any reason why you went with square tube for the frame rails? Def can be a more familiar medium to work in...and will def hold up to what you are after, just wondering.
Honestly I went for it for the ease of building and mounting off of. Strength shouldn't be an issue like you said. Not really concerned with weight as well. The tube bending will be to a minimal with alot of straight shots and triangulation.
 

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Subframe isn't tacked in at the moment. The depth is on average with most buggies that I looked. Some say more depth actually. As you can tell I don't know what I'm doing. If anything the front rise is probably too much. I'm tacking things together as I go.

Anyone else have any thoughts on subframe depth. I want a flat floor and have the atlas under it.
I wish mine was deeper, but it's only 4" deep. I think I'm around 7-8" from floorplan to skid plate. I'm digging it bud.

Are you gonna swap over everything, or leave the truck complete and wheel for a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wish mine was deeper, but it's only 4" deep. I think I'm around 7-8" from floorplan to skid plate. I'm digging it bud.

Are you gonna swap over everything, or leave the truck complete and wheel for a bit?
I think I may be a couple inches too deep, but there is a fine line from being too shallow and building your seats higher to accommodate the hump for the t-case, and too low and your dragging it on everything. I read that the IBEX chassis have a 13" subframe. That seems crazy to me. I may lower it 2" since I have 3" of frame rail to work with. Should make it look more proportional as well.

Plan is to swap everything over. Ive wheeled more this year (8x) than I have in the past 3 combined so im pretty happy with that.
 

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I wouldnt do anymore till the engine/drivetrain is mocked in place. Best bet is to build around it because shit is going to have to be tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I wouldnt do anymore till the engine/drivetrain is mocked in place. Best bet is to build around it because shit is going to have to be tight.
I hear ya Stubs. I'm hoping it won't be as tight as the stock yota frame rails. Inside the cab may be another story with the engine pushed back. This will all have to be figured out in 6-8 weeks once i get back from glorious Venezuela.
 

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I hear ya Stubs. I'm hoping it won't be as tight as the stock yota frame rails. Inside the cab may be another story with the engine pushed back. This will all have to be figured out in 6-8 weeks once i get back from glorious Venezuela.
Just a thought, check out ashmanxj(sp?)'s new build, his old truck was kinda similar to what you are building at least in the way that the motor was shoved into the cab. He ended up building a new chassis and setting the cab further back because it was such a pain to get to anything engine related. Just food for thought.

Digging yours so far. Makes me contemplate doing something similar but with an avalanche'd 2nd Gen 4runner skin :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Bump. I know you are back in town. Ha ha.
Yep, been working on it the last couple days. 7 weeks in shit hole Venezuela was enough for me.

I took out 2.5" of the subframe depth and moved it back some once I got the axle lower brackets tacked on.


You can also see the sliders put on. They are 2x4, .188 wall and are frenched in to the rocker panels to keep the body as low as possible.







You can also see the artec front truss tacked on. Still need to tack on the ram mount part of it. I started to tear down the Squirrel as well. It's a sad day but it was time. Once I get the drivetrain out I'll mock it up in the new chassis. Slowly but Shirley.
 
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