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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Put in some more work. Continued to disconnect and drain all fluids from the "donor" truck. Still need to disconnect the shifters and torque converter so i can take out the trans/t-case as one unit. Also mocked up the lowers up front with my old links. Should be plenty of room for a engine skid. I have more triangulation than i did previously so I hope my tires wont rub as they did before. They are tacked in so I can move them if needed.







I hope to get the drivetrain out on Sunday and maybe mocked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Been working on tearing down the donor. Took out the trans and t-case yesterday. Note to self: Dont locktite the torque converter bolts to the flexplate. Anywho, after i got those out, it came out pretty easily.


Need to clean it up some and take the Atlas off so I can move the studs around to clock it flat-ish. On todays schedule is to take the motor out and swap on a new oil pan before i move it over into the new frame. Moving forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Engine is out of the old and in the new chassis. I swapped out the truck pan for a f-body pan. I bought an Improved Racing baffle system for it so it keeps the proper oil pressure. Currently the pan is just bolted up with 4 bolts, as the baffles aren't in yet.

And its out


New pan swapped on for mockup. Saved me a few inches over the truck pan.


I will need to lower the engine a few inches and move it back some.






As it sits the intake just barely clears the firewall. I made the frame rails a few inches wider than the toyota rails, so it fits very nice in there. Ill get the trans in this evening and move everything closer to its final resting place. If you notice it, I will have to swap to a Goat built, or similar PS pump relocation brackets, so i can squeeze in my uppers.
 

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I love these builds where guys just make a frame and go from there. I envy you your fab skills.
And the squirrel name was perfect. Reminds me of the squirrel on the ice age movies. yes I have a 4 year old.

Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I love these builds where guys just make a frame and go from there. I envy you your fab skills.
And the squirrel name was perfect. Reminds me of the squirrel on the ice age movies. yes I have a 4 year old.

Keep up the good work.
very cool build. I keep throwing around the idea of a first gen skinned buggy too.
Thanks guys. it has a long way to go, but im making progress everyday.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Messed with the engine location and got the trans bolted up for mockup. Moved everything down and back several inches. I dont want to move it much more to the rear as its pretty much right even/under with where the dash will be. How close to the lower crossmembers are everyone getting? I have a 1x4 under the pan now to space it. Thats about 3/4". Should I lower it down more?





Here is a pic of close to full bump. My axle is approximately 7" up from where the lowers will be flat at ride height. Should I go make them a little negative at ride height? I can come up some more but upper link placement will come into play. I have about 8.5" of vertical separation at the axle and plan on running 42s so that should be close. I can always move the lower axle mounts up some as they are just tacked on.


Here is where i mocked up the upper. Its just a first attempt. I ordered a goat built PS pump relocation bracket so once it gets in ill begin to finalize its placement.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
I installed my goatbuilt PS relocation bracket and messed around with upper link placement. I lowered the axle some to right around 7" of up travel. I don't think it's possible to fit the link inside the frame rails so I mocked it up outside. The link is 30" at the moment. Too short? Lowers are at 40". Vertical separation is 9" at axle and would be 8" at frame.

Pics. Engine is where I want it to be. Don't want to move it back into the cab anymore. I will have about 1/4" of clearance to the PS pulley at full bump.


Side shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Any comments on the short(er) upper link? 30" is 75% of the lower (40"). I know that 70% was a good rule back in the day. Truck is going to be trail only. No bouncing, no real racing (not including burning up the fire roads on the way back to camp)

I may move the upper frame mount back a few inches. The 4-link calculator seems to like it longer. Any recommendations on how to input the CoG in the calculator? Belly will be around 19-20" with everything sitting low in the chassis. 7"up/down for my front travel. May try and squeeze in a 16" coilover for more down travel (7 up/9 down).
 

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Any comments on the short(er) upper link? 30" is 75% if the lower (40"). I know that 70% was a good rule back in the day. Truck is going to be trail only. No bouncing, no real racing (not including burning up the fire roads on the way back to camp)

I may move the upper frame mount back a few inches. The 4-link calculator seems to like it longer. Any recommendations on how to input the CoG in the calculator? Belly will be around 19-20" with everything sitting low in the chassis. 7"up/down for my front travel. May try and squeeze in a 16" coilover for more down travel (7 up/9 down).
I believe you take your upper bell housing bolt height and input that as your cog
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I dicked around with the upper link placement again last night. Been playing with the calculator and my AS values for the front end up in the 25-40% range depending how much i change the vertical separation at the frame side. I lengthened the upper a few inches and moved the mount back on the slider to accommodate.

The tabs will be centered more on the tube.


How far the mount hangs down off the tube. Anyone think ill have huge rotational forces on the tube the tabs are mounted too? I changed it out to .188 wall DOM and will brace it behind the tabs to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
First time using the calculator for my link suspensions. Previous was a 3-link front where the options to install everything was limited due to having an LS under the hood of a 82 toyota. It did sit low and worked great. I followed the basic rules as close as I could but had to make some concessions on placement.

Anywho, onto the new build where its pretty much a blank canvas. These are the numbers I am planning on going with. The AS numbers are pretty low 43% front and 28% rear. No racing here so im not sure how it will work out. We will see.
 
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