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· Fistful of Boomstick
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I have to insulate and line it and I have to figure out how to make an entire rear wall and door.

question: should I drill 1/4" holes in the steel beams and foam fill them? will that make a significant change in insulation to make it worth my time?
 

· Fistful of Boomstick
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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Beadlocks? On a camper?
There are no inserts in them, they are just recentered hmmwv beadlocks. And thanks to the great job at getting me the centers from C&M Performance Machine they match the JK.

Just think of them as "split rims" :laughing:

Also it allows me to run the same rim and tire on everything.
 

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I have to insulate and line it and I have to figure out how to make an entire rear wall and door.

question: should I drill 1/4" holes in the steel beams and foam fill them? will that make a significant change in insulation to make it worth my time?
I would not drill and insulate, just creates more opportunity for rust. I would cut foamboard for in between.

I bet you could use some old aluminum truck caps as raw material to make up a fairly light back door section. I have always wanted to make a shower curtain for around my rear hatch on my VW bus. Toss a solar bag on the roof and bam, warm showers.
 

· Fistful of Boomstick
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42,968 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
i rubbed one out in this today. i'll clean it up tomorrow for you.:flipoff2:
thats fine, guess what I was doing at your computer while I watched the house?

ya, thats not spilled soda on the keyboard :flipoff2:


You feel like being rented with your truck should this craigslist dude get back to be on a parts camper?
I may have stumbled across ALL of my remaining needed components :laughing:
 

· Fistful of Boomstick
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42,968 Posts
Discussion Starter · #90 ·
wait whut?
was going to borrow bill to haul a "parts camper" that I was going to get for the door and tub but it appears that camper may not end up that way :laughing:
 

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13,180 Posts
when the wife tells me "you're not buying a camper" it usually means i'm buying a camper.:laughing:

when you said too nice to cut up, i thought it was a fixxer upper. doesn't appear to need much fixin to me.:smokin:
 

· Fistful of Boomstick
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42,968 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 ·
when the wife tells me "you're not buying a camper" it usually means i'm buying a camper.:laughing:

when you said too nice to cut up, i thought it was a fixxer upper. doesn't appear to need much fixin to me.:smokin:
happy links

http://www.google.com/products/cata...&sa=X&ei=oRm0TryMC-7WiALW4qB_&ved=0CHMQ8gIwAA
eccotemp L5 hot water heater



http://www.amazon.com/SEPTLS373MH18...T6N6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1320426194&sr=8-7

Big Buddy cat type heater, get filter/adapter



So for around 300 you get a hot water heater that ill be overkill and a heater that is overkill and much easier to work with/install than normal RV shit.
AND you can pull them out to use in the other RV or garge :D
 

· Fistful of Boomstick
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42,968 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 ·
pimp :D but is the heater blower and t-stat DC or AC (cant veiw the PDF right now) ?

If its DC with a little ac power plug that is easy to make run on bat power, if its AC only I would rather go with something that I can run without the serious power draw of an AC inverter.
 

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1,253 Posts
I am 99% sure that the heater may be fully ran without any type of batteries or electrical power. The big buddy has a place for a bunch of D cells to run the fan, but it's not required for operation. I think this one is similar, since if you needed 120 VAC all the time it wouldn't have a AA ignitor...

It has a 120 VAC blower (no transformer or any electronics shown between the household plug and the blower motor).

AA battery for electronic ignition.

It calls the T-stat a thermo-bulb or something, dosen't sound electrical at all.

NOTE: This heater requires an external regulator (unlike the big buddy). No big deal, as long as you know.

I will be calling Mr Heater to verify all this and will report.





Here's a small part of the manual:

SAFETY DEVICE
This heater has a pilot with an Oxygen Depletion Sensor
(ODS) safety shut off system. The ODS/pilot shuts
off the heater if there is not enough fresh air.
IGNITION SYSTEM
– The heater is equipped with an electronic manual ignitor.
This system requires no matches, or other source
to light heater, but does require one AA battery to operate
ignitor. (AA Battery included).
To install or replace battery unscrew the ignitor cap
(red button), insert battery positive (+) terminal up
and replace cap.
(AA Battery included)
THERMOSTATIC CONTROL
These heaters have a control valve with a thermostat
sensing bulb. This results in the greatest heater comfort
and may result in lower bills.
These heaters also include an electrical blower. The
blower switch has three positions: MANUAL, OFF and
AUTO. In AUTO, the blower will turn on and off as the
heater cycles on and off. On MANUAL, the blower will run
continuously. To turn blower off, use the OFF position.
 

· Naughty Nurse
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27,321 Posts
WTF?!
You promised pics of this door you have been working on. Get to posting bitch!:flipoff2:
 
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