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Good thread man. Thanks for sharing this info with us. :D
 

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Bump. *****....Any more info?? I'm making the final preps to install my 1.3. You started a great thread here......
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
here's some stuff

already put this up in another thread:


NOTE: do not completely remove the guide boss from the exh port. it is required to transfer heat from the exh valve to the head. the intake side boss can be removed entirely.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
head prep:

wash and bead blast (no sand, glass beads only). use a valve cover while blasting, you don't want to mess up the cam bearing surfaces.


to get the residue off of aluminum, use trisodium phosphate or oven cleaner with sodium hydroxide. this does etch the aluminum (that's why it says not to use it on aluminum- but we're using control and precision here).

 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
good god y'all!


eductor removal



eductors were drilled out and tapped to 1/4-20. i countersunk the screws with a 5/16 bit, 1" deep. brass screws were turned down to 5/16 and jb-welded into the eductor ports. brass has a linear coefficient of thermal expansion that is closer to aluminum than steel, and it is easier to work with a burr.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·



porting pics coming. lots of resizing, slow to post... kinda hasty today.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
i guess i forgot to post a before pic showing what these eductor nozzles are. they don't need to be there, and will make porting impossible.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
completed bowl work. what a difference! i'll get into measuring ports later, this isn't random grinding.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
view from intake. note valve guide boss blended to port contour, and note throat transition. port is completely concentric as measured by internal dividers. there is 1/16th of taper through the radius (tapered across 2" of port length- less than stock and smooth transition). the bowl is concentric, the distance from the long side radius to the short side radius is equal to valve diameter.
 

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still cant believe guys spend so much time on an 8valve with tbi
im about 99% sure that a tbi 1.3 and a tbi 1.6 use the exact same head
(you gotta compare apples to apples ( not efi to carb )
1.6L cranks will hold 200 hp, until a serious misfire or nitrous backfire occurs, and even then the crank survives, but the rods do bend.

great thread, and i would like to get some better rods and pistons in the near future. ( the 16 valve pistons have a very small upper ring land, that is known for breaking off and dumping compression into the crankcase)
i will also check for you to see if any of my "spare parts" 16v engines have a forged crank
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
gotta say, why not? the 8v is being built for torque. i think the eaton M65 blowing through 6" runners fed by megasquirt II will do the job, keeping the torque curve dead flat around 160 at the flywheel through 5k rpm. the crank might see a peak of 180 hp before blower losses, but that's not how this will be driven. i think each rod can handle momentary loads below 45 ponies apiece just fine. this engine family is built to 300 hp and revved past 12k by quite a number of folks. i'm not sweating it, and since you're running an eaton and your buddy runs N2O i don't think you're sweating it, either. it's about building a trail rig that is unfazed by altitude, lightweight, and can still grunt from idle. my special needs are good mileage and the ability to cruise at 4500 rpm on the highway, 'cause i ain't gettin' no trailer.

the D&J Rock pistons have ring heights suitable for boost. plenty of meat at the top of the piston compared to the 16v slugs.

the castings for the 1.3 and 1.6 8v tbi heads are probably identical, since the bosses are the same. dunno about valve sizes or camming, though. haven't had a 1.3 tbi on my bench yet.

this is still a relatively cheap build, since i do my own work and am using very little in the way of new parts. a rod swap gets expensive quick due to custom pistons. last set of custom pistons i ordered were $800 in 1996 dollars for a pontiac V8. biggest single expense on this build is the valve grind - the rest is head scratching, turd polish, and applied skills.
 

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8v tbi

still cant believe guys spend so much time on an 8valve with tbi
im about 99% sure that a tbi 1.3 and a tbi 1.6 use the exact same head
(you gotta compare apples to apples ( not efi to carb )
1.6L cranks will hold 200 hp, until a serious misfire or nitrous backfire occurs, and even then the crank survives, but the rods do bend.

great thread, and i would like to get some better rods and pistons in the near future. ( the 16 valve pistons have a very small upper ring land, that is known for breaking off and dumping compression into the crankcase)
i will also check for you to see if any of my "spare parts" 16v engines have a forged crank

This is some of the best information I have found for this engine. I have long thought for a low RPM grunt engine the 8V TBI was better than the tech savy versions. The simplicity of the TBI makes it better for trails IMO as it can be patched on trail much easier than MPFI. Only have to carry one spare ECU and a few ft of vacume line to get home from most anything.

In reality for what the Sidekick/Samuri need for power off road, 125HP with an off idle tourqe curve like the Colt cam delivers is all I want. This thread has added to my understanding well and moved me to this goal further than anything else I have found. I wonder if a to 'sum it up' post might be worth while after 3 pages of posts now tho.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
thanks for the compliments. i couldn't find the tech either, that's why this thread was born!

i'm still working on this build... projects can move slowly, with the ebb and flow of available cash and free time. i have got all of my stuff together for MegaSquirt-II engine management, and will finish the MPFI blower manifold as soon as i can get the internal velocity stacks turned to size. i've been keeping good notes and taking plenty of photos for a writeup once everything is running smoothly.
 

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this is definately a "top shelf" thread! i will be using these tips on my 8v soon. i've decided to put the 3.8 ford six in a different zuk and rebuild one of my spare 1.6's for the raging squirrel tracker. boosting compression is one of my primary goals since this thing is never used below 4,500' elevation. mtn. use is up to 10,000' and our wyoming desert averages 6,500'. town is about 5,300'. how high do you think i could go on compression with standard and mid grade fuels?
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
with .040" milled off of the deck and a .51mm overbore, i ended up with a deck volume of 13.7cc and a piston-to-deck clearance of .041". this is very pleasing, i'll get a much better burn with the improved squish space. The factory 1.6 has about 14.18cc deck volume.

good numbers.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
boosting compression is one of my primary goals since this thing is never used below 4,500' elevation. mtn. use is up to 10,000' and our wyoming desert averages 6,500'. town is about 5,300'. how high do you think i could go on compression with standard and mid grade fuels?
see post #1.

i guess i forgot to post this:



*edit: yes, i will be running through the firewall. i will be doing a similar intake to shuduck's. i opted for the cobalt supercharger over the nissan xterra because i would rather cut the firewall than the hood. i need to fit a throttle body and air filter plumbing on there, so a little sheet metal fab on the firewall is okay with me.
 

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gotta say, why not? the 8v is being built for torque. i think the eaton M65 blowing through 6" runners fed by megasquirt II will do the job, keeping the torque curve dead flat around 160 at the flywheel through 5k rpm. the crank might see a peak of 180 hp before blower losses, but that's not how this will be driven. i think each rod can handle momentary loads below 45 ponies apiece just fine. this engine family is built to 300 hp and revved past 12k by quite a number of folks. i'm not sweating it, and since you're running an eaton and your buddy runs N2O i don't think you're sweating it, either. it's about building a trail rig that is unfazed by altitude, lightweight, and can still grunt from idle. my special needs are good mileage and the ability to cruise at 4500 rpm on the highway, 'cause i ain't gettin' no trailer.

you wont be dissapointed with torque off idle.
YouTube - eaton blown suzuki
 
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