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cam timming

littleBlackSamo.how much did you end up milling off the head and deck?
What would you recommend for getting around 10-10.25:1?
How did you make up for the cam timming? advace or retard? how many degrees? Is your cam timming going to be different using boost? What timming would you recommend for nat. asp. on 87 oct.?
How about cam specs to get the most torque?
Xcellent post.Thanks.
 

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A way too late addition but Jeff Penthyridge of Australia had compiled most of this info back about 10 years ago. I don't think he's active on here now and the private zuk forum it used to be housed in closed down a couple of years ago.
 

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Just a clarification on the "air inductor nozzles" discussed early in this thread...

Unless I've missed something in tracing the passages, these are for the EGR circuit. The exhaust manifold connects to a passage at the rear of the head which leads to a port in the intake manifold. That port connects to the EGR valve which connects to a passage running below the intake runners near the head. The four ports below the runners connect to this long passage.

I've only taken 3 of these engines apart, but the passage in the back of the head has been plugged on all of them.
 

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Something else I can add to this that hasn't come up......the rocker arms in my 1992 1.3 were lower ratio...1.3-1 than the carbed 1.3's.....1.5-1. They made up for it with the cam grind.

The best combo I could come up with at that time was the stock EFI cam with the 1.5 ratio carbed rocker arms. Installed the 1.6 exhaust valves, flat tops from the 1298cc in my 1324cc, and added the adjustable sprocket to fine tune things and it ran like a champ. The Isky actually made less power. One of my junk 1.3's had some huge rods that were twice the size of the ones from either of my other parts motors, so I used those too.

Got a speeding ticket to prove it! 89mph and still accelerating on 32" TSL Radials. Broke motor mounts like crazy, even the Dodge v-8 mounts only lasted 6 months.
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter #90
Hey, all... check-in time. I've been living in Germany since November, and mothballed my samurai in storage back in the states. I've been inactive since then, 'cause it's depressing...

Kooter, you'll have to read the thread, all of your questions are addressed in there, one by one.

A reminder, when milling head and deck, you will need to compensate for cam to crank timing with a modded cam pulley (matter of milling, drilling, filing, or grinding a keyway and clocking the fawker, too easy) or with an aftermarket adjustable one. I recommend going with teamswift.net's vendors for that, since most zuk vendors encourage engine swaps and don't deal with the internals so much- the rice car guys have much lower prices on the botique part. Remember, if you mill 040 off the head and deck, you lose 040(ish) off of a cam pulley tooth from its original timing toward the retard side, moving powerband up. Killerpee ran into trouble with his tensioner running out of adjustment, which is easy enough to address by lengthening the slot or other means (like fabbing a fixed one, heh heh...). Also, the inductor nozzles go bye bye because they are an obstruction, no other reason. We don't need 'em.

I'm glad that the powah has come to those of you who have found this thread informative and applied the information discussed. Now go out and break some more motor mounts!
 

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Thought I'd add a few things. Built my POS way back when no one was doing it. The 1.3 head on 1.6 block lowers the compression BADLY. I used a 1.6 16v block (at the time junkyard scores were impossible for the 8v) 8v pistons, the stock 1.3 head.

The compression is EXTREMELY low with this setup. It's been so long I can't remember how low, but I believe I took .060" off the block to get 9.6:1 compression with my setup. Didn't want to mill off the head- no reason to, and you get more taking it off the block anyhow because of getting the full pi r2 as the head has a flat spot that encroaches. Would have rather had higher compression, but each point of compression only adds about 3%.

I scavenged off of metro/swift parts to get the Sami style square tooth timing sprocket with the bolt pattern for a dual v-belt to run power steering, and the belt had to be longer (two teeth?) The tensioner was way out of whack, so cutting and rewelding it allowed me to get the adjustment, and verify against #4 VO that it was reasonably close (it is) Timing cover no longer fit, so I ordered an 8v cover from the dealer.

The 1.3 headgasket will work, but one of the ports needs to be punched out. 1.6 looked close enough. I cut and welded the oil inlet to fit the stock pan for clearance. This allows me to tuck my tires all the way up without bumpstop mods and not hit the pan. The 1.3 pan bolts right onto the 1.6 blocks (either one)

I saw a question earlier about interchangeability with the 1.3's. There were two compression ratios. 8.9:1 (86-90) and 9.5:1 (91-95). The difference in compression is due to a longer throw (.060") of the crank, which makes the higher compression engine displace *very* slightly more. I don't think this interferes with parts fitment.

The 1.6 makes it's displacement by longer throw (.540") larger bore (.040") and taller block.

One pretty redneck trick I'm almost ashamed to share... I pilfered some jets out of a junkyard swift (in case it didn't work) and jetted them out using torch tip cleaners. Probably not the best way, but it worked pretty well.

BTW I love my TI86, too.
 

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Ok hello all.
I've got a Suzuki swift and I'm having trouble getting the timing belt back on
Originally i had to lift one end the head to get it off and the tensioner was pretty much loose no spring connected to it
Details
Suzuki swift 1.3 1993 November g13ba "that's what it says the fire wall"
the block says g13b
and the head is 8 valve
the belt that's still half on there is a t347 pretty sure so
Regards drnegative
contact me via email is best [email protected]
Thanks In Advance
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter #96
Rise from your grave, thread!

After seven years overseas, I'm back stateside. I am flying out to Reno in November to drive Sambo up to my new home in Washington. It's been way too long, but I'm back in the game. I was playing with Hondas in Europe to pass the time. Soon, I will be able to pick up where I left off! Putting spit-shine polish on the (supercharged) 8V turd, live, here on Pirate.

And yes, I owe several readers photos to replace the dead links. When I unpack the HDD with those pics on it, I will get them up. Back in black!
 

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turd-polish-a-go-go
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Discussion Starter #98
Okay, fixed the images in this thread with permanent links! Just in time for everyone to move on to 16v DOHC motors and 2.0L swaps. Well, I'm still playing around with these darn things. Got me some hayabusa throttle bodies and a manifold on the bench now... and a new 1.6 8v head to prep! I'll check back later with more.
 

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Any more progress on your 8V? Tan Zuk ran a set of GSXR carb's on his 1.3 and it sounded incredible. I always loved that set up on a 4 banger!! Back in 1969 I had a 1961 Alfa Romeo Gulietta Spyder Veloce that had 2 Weber 40DCOE's on it. The sound of the those side draft Weber's was incredible. The power was nasty!! Typing this and thinking about it just brings a smile to my face. I wish I still had that car!!!
 
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