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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Go here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/1653937-project-cj5-will-ever-see-daylight.html










:flipoff2:

This is going to be a low budget, old school CJ5 build.

Specs at the beginning are:

1977 CJ5
304 v8, T150 tranny, D20 case
33" Maxxis Big horns, stock everything else.
Metal front/ glass rear


Here she is the day I picked her up:




Plans:
~5" stretch up front, ~3" rear. No comp cuts.
-Belly up skid.
-Frenched in Leaf spring hangers.
-Stock YJ leaf springs with spare main leafs bolted to the side of the jeep ala M38 style :D.
-FI 304 or 360
-NP435 mated to a D300.
-Cable shifters for easy access to the shifter.
-Dana 60 Front, narrowed 4.5" on the long side for a total of 2.25" shorter on each side.
-C&C 14 Bolt rear. Slight shave but nothing more because I don't see the point.
-39.5 Iroks on TR beadlocks.
-4.56 Gears and Lockrights front and rear.



The first thing I did for this project was buy my first welder. I needed something to get me started on the learning process. It's not the best of the names but it has worked well so far. Everything about this build is BUDGET.




Next, I wanted to start on the jeep. I figured safty first so me and a buddy put the cage together. No, my welding skills were not practiced on the cage :flipoff2:



Got started on the tire carrier, because those are important.







Then I got the seatbelts all welded in. These are double shear from Dan at RuffStuff. I'm told double shear is the way to go.

 

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Discussion Starter #2


After all that. I got sick of scratching the paint with my wedding ring every time I got out of the jeep. So I painted it with a more durable paint.



No more scratches! I'm not a huge fan of herculiner but it does get addicting.



Now, around this time, I had a bug up my ass to change the jeep and do a military theme with it. I'm served and I'm a bit of a military buff so I figured, why not? Well, now that the initial.."Yeah that'll kick ass!" feeling has passed I'm left with the decision to ruin the pretty red paint...

More on that later if I decide to do it.

I picked up a M38A1 Grille that'll get used either way.





Next post will bring me up to date...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is where I narrowed the front axle.

I cut the tube out of the "C" and placed the tube on ice.







I baked the "C" in the oven at 375* for 35 mins and it slid right on. I got my caster setup before it got too cool and took it up to my friend's place to have it welded on.



I sent the long side shaft out to Moser to be cut and resplined:



Their turn around time was awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Next I got started on the spring hangers. I made these out of 3.5" square tube. Next time I'll just buy the damn things...Its amazing how much time little stuff like this takes when you're new to fabricating.







I think they turned out ok. I still need to put them in a drill press. Then I can get started on the frame cuts and start frenching them in. No turning back now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Parts:

I picked up a set of Inner Air beadlocks for a killer price. These are nice because they'll keep me "legal" and I can still run the light weight wheels.



Dean at "Kick Ass Off road" sold me a set of lower kingpin caps with the grease zerks up out of harms way. I HAD adjustable camber caps that hung down really far so I wanted to replace them. These are cheaper than stock replacements and Dean gets them out FAST:



35 spline outer stuff. East Coast Gear Supply..great to do business with and they have a good rep out in the field. I was a little dissapointed that the caps didn't come engraved but they were out of them. Plus they'ed just get all smeared with teh H2 wheels anyway.



I got the dif covers from Rokmen. These are beef and there's enough there to incorporate them into the 14 bolt shave.



RuffStuff Traction bar:



...and 2+ perches that should give me my 3" stretch in the rear:



LII Slider boxes, front and rear:



I think thats it. Other than a bunch of random parts that I don't have pics of, this is it. It should give a general idea of where this is going, as long as everything goes according to plan.

Please feel free to offer criticism, feedback, and support where necessary. I'm still a little green behind the ears and I respect where I'm posting so everything is appreciated.
 

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Looks great! For a beginning welder, your spring hangers look really good. I am subscribed!

You didn't say, but I'm assuming you will be staying really low with the build. Going SOA (I assume) with the sliders will give you a really low stance, which should work great!

Plans for fender cutting?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks great! For a beginning welder, your spring hangers look really good. I am subscribed!

You didn't say, but I'm assuming you will be staying really low with the build. Going SOA (I assume) with the sliders will give you a really low stance, which should work great!

Plans for fender cutting?
Thanks! Yeah, I want to stay really low, SOA. With the belly up stuff, I figure the lower the better to keep COG to a minimum. I haven't figured out the fender cutting yet but at this point I think there will be a quite a bit.

The nice thing is if it sits too low, I can always go up to a 2" spring or something. That would only be if up-travel was a major issue though.

As far as the welds..thanks. I'm still learning but I have a pretty good idea of what NOT to do...so far. :D
 

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Love the spare tire setup. Where did you get the tube clamps for that? I have been wanting to do something similar in my TJ but yours is the first setup I have really seen that I liked.
 

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Hope you're gonna cut the floor or run the 300 below the frame, otherwise you won't be able to shift the 300 behind the np435.

I made my 300 rear shifted with cables if you search in hardcore under my name you should find it, could be of use to you.
 

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Nice to see another build using slider boxes! I'm looking forward to seeing how you set yours up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hope you're gonna cut the floor or run the 300 below the frame, otherwise you won't be able to shift the 300 behind the np435.

I made my 300 rear shifted with cables if you search in hardcore under my name you should find it, could be of use to you.

I was hoping to get away with running cables from up above and trimming some of the shifter bracketry off of the D300. I see your point though so if it comes down to it, I'll cut the floor or compromise somewhere else.

Either way, I appreciate the tip and I'll check out your thread for sure, thanks.


The tube clamps I got from:
http://ubmachine.com/tubeclamps.html

They're not bling like some of the others but for $9 a pop, I couldn't pass them up! They were in stock and shipped the next day.
 

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I was hoping to get away with running cables from up above and trimming some of the shifter bracketry off of the D300. I see your point though so if it comes down to it, I'll cut the floor or compromise somewhere else.

Either way, I appreciate the tip and I'll check out your thread for sure, thanks.


The tube clamps I got from:
http://ubmachine.com/tubeclamps.html

They're not bling like some of the others but for $9 a pop, I couldn't pass them up! They were in stock and shipped the next day.

We built the tire carrier up at my house and were 2 tube clamps short due to a design change, so we made 2... Theyre worth the $9 after the work spent to duplicate them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
We built the tire carrier up at my house and were 2 tube clamps short due to a design change, so we made 2... Theyre worth the $9 after the work spent to duplicate them.
Yep. Those two tube clamps made the whole thing work though!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice to see another build using slider boxes! I'm looking forward to seeing how you set yours up.
The slider boxes are a bit of an experiment for this project to keep it interesting for us. One thing I'm not using them for is wheel travel. I know it sounds dumb but wheel travel or "flex" really isn't of great importance to me with this. I'm kind of looking forward to how they're going to work.

The benefits to using them here, that I can see, are:
-Additional stabilty with a short wheelbase rig
-Keeping it low
-Less chance of inverted/bent leaf springs

The negatives that I can see:
-The springs natural spring rate will be depended on (could also be good)
-Makes stretching a PITA
-Reduces the springs ability to "twist", like a traditional shackle allows.

We talked about the placement of the sliders up front. I originally wanted to keep them up under the bumper but after thinking about how far I'd need to stretch the frame horns, and the steering box location, it might just be easier to place them at the rear, like a shackle reversal.

I'm not a huge fan of the shackle reversals in the rocks (I know this is a long debate) but I'm hoping that the disadvantages will be reduced by the design of the sliders. We'll see.
 

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The title got my attention. I was expecting dovetailed tub and boatsides similar to the "great southern trendkill". Even though not to the same level it looks like a great project, good luck.

Why go with the 37s on a 14 bolt and not bigger, just curious?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The title got my attention. I was expecting dovetailed tub and boatsides similar to the "great southern trendkill". Even though not to the same level it looks like a great project, good luck.

Why go with the 37s on a 14 bolt and not bigger, just curious?

His title got my attention, too.
Thanks for the complements. This isn't the typical bling build that is often seen here and I'm not on that level nor claim to be. I posted here because posting in the non-hardcore section is a lot like posting a build thread on facebook :flipoff2: I appreciate the experience here but if shit hits the fan the thread can be moved.

The 37" tire choice was more of a good deal. I got 5 tires for $. For the price I figure they're a good starting point. I'm also not affraid to drag the diff around. I figure it'll make me a better driver.

Thanks!
 
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