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Thanks, let me check that last link. So you can see the pic of the four flowmeters?

The whole thing is grounded because of the metal faceplates, so should a hot wire somehow come loose (which I don't ever expect it to) and touch the case, any part of the faceplate, or the floating buss bar network inside, it will immediately trip the breaker at the generator (which is a 30A breaker for the two hots). The hots for the 120V outlets would of course trip the 20A breakers and not the 30A generator breaker. The reason I put 50A breakers in it right now for the 6-50R outlets (as opposed to 30A like the generator) is mainly to serve as on/off switches at the moment. Later when I get a larger generator that is capable of more than 50A then those breakers will be true protection devices that would trip before the generator.
Funny, flowmeters showed up when I posted, don't any more.

Thanks for the education and explanation.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Funny, flowmeters showed up when I posted, don't any more.

Thanks for the education and explanation.
Thanks for letting me know about the links. I never really had any issues with pics but I'm checking different avenues since I keep all my stuff on Google ever since the whole photobucket fiasco.
 

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gumboot cloggeroo
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Are those bolt on style breakers?

If not, could you show a pic of how you connected them.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Are those bolt on style breakers?

If not, could you show a pic of how you connected them.
They are standard Eaton breakers.

No pic as they are already fixed in place, and the internet electrical police would go on and on about how they are not "up to code" for generator use :D
 

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gumboot cloggeroo
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They are standard Eaton breakers.

No pic as they are already fixed in place, and the internet electrical police would go on and on about how they are not "up to code" for generator use :D
So they're clip on?

Did you just jam a chunk of flat copper into each slot?
 

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So they're clip on?

Did you just jam a chunk of flat copper into each slot?
As I read between the lines, he stripped pieces of insulation off of a piece of copper wire (possibly #6 or #8) and stuck that into the slots.

Aaron Z
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Nah, its not just wire, it is indeed a "chunk" of copper, as in I took 1/8" thick copper flat bar and milled a little profile so it snaps into the slot, and then used a copper crimp sleeve at the other end to crimp and also silver solder the wire, then heat-shrinked it. Its pretty cramped in there, so no place for the wires to go anywhere.
 

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i dont get it, $10-20k into HTP welders? and this is your red neck solution for a spider box?

embarrassing.

shit aint 'custom' its hack, you can do allot better. i would call it a prototype and redesign.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
i dont get it, $10-20k into HTP welders? and this is your red neck solution for a spider box?

embarrassing.

shit aint 'custom' its hack, you can do allot better. i would call it a prototype and redesign.
Interesting response indeed. I'm not embarrassed not even one bit, it's just something I threw together in my spare time, so idgaf. You can call it what you want, it don't hurt my feelings. And you are right about one thing: you sure don't get it.
 

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I think that is great backyard engineering but I am very happy that I have found 2 spider boxes on craigslist, one was 25 bucks the other 35. Neither seller had any idea what they were.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I think that is great backyard engineering but I am very happy that I have found 2 spider boxes on craigslist, one was 25 bucks the other 35. Neither seller had any idea what they were.
Thanks, back-yard engineering is exactly what it is/what I was going for. Around here, Craigslist turns out nothing, I'm not about to wait 10-15 years for a spider box to show up, lol. Hence the one I made. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Got a chance to use it yesterday, as the neighbor's gate was falling apart, and the random dude they got to make a new gate vanished. Just tacked it in place for now (to the gate frame behind it) so their dogs don't knock the rusted heap down and go into the park behind our houses.

 

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i get it for a farmers and such, i missed the 'side' part next to jobs. i would be removed from a job if i brought something like that to a call out.

most gensets and such have gfci so should be fine. i'd be careful using it from any other source not gfci protected. most think its over rated until they get 'touched'.

but if only running from a genset why have breakers at all? most gens all ready have the needed breakers. and then why use breakers designed to be used in a panel.

see your runnng an HTP welder how do you like them, compare to the big names?
 

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gumboot cloggeroo
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They are standard Eaton breakers.

No pic as they are already fixed in place, and the internet electrical police would go on and on about how they are not "up to code" for generator use :D
What is the ampere rating on the breaker built into your generator (the one you plug your power strip into)?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
What is the ampere rating on the breaker built into your generator (the one you plug your power strip into)?
It's 40A. Yes, I already know what you're going to say. I'm getting a larger generator in the summer (20kW/75A), so I over-built it in advance.
 
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